Flickering Dash Lights and Gauges

[PajeroWaala]

 

Its similar to this one with a few extra buttons across the top.

 

[oldcodger]

Uni_T make so many models , but cannot see any variations on the UT52 model you show with extra buttons ??  do you have an extact model number, possibly on the back of the meter, not just the model range on the front.

To set up your meter and test it, using the car Battery or any other household Battery like a 1.5v cell or a 9v one.

Place the black lead in the COM socket, the red lead in  V socket.

Move the dial so the pointer is on the  20 V DC range, thats the range with the  V =  sign.

Press the power on button and it will display 0.00 as above, though it may move a bit as it pick up random signals.

Place the red lead on the Battery positive terminal and the black on the negative terminal and it will display the voltage of the battery.

If you get the lead the wrong way around then you will see the Minus sign on the display  - it does not damage anything, just gives the wrong value,because you have the leads the wrong way around.

Try that and see how it goes.

 

[PajeroWaala]

Sorry its not this make but just looks similar. I can upload a pic when I get home in the evening.

Thanx for the instructions.

Any fuse box pics / diagrams available with designations please ?

 

[PajeroWaala]

Attached is pic of my multimeter.

 

[oldcodger]

Would be interested to know the name and model number on the back of it - rather a different unit to the one shown previously !

Get a household Battery single cell or a 9v type etc.

Set it to  V DC is the pic shows, then press Power ON,  the display should say Auto, but the numbers will be fluctuating, thats normal.

Connect the probe to each of the Battery terminals and the display will steady as say, 1.6v or 9.0v

However we are looking at around 12v when on the car, so its better to select a fixed range , rather than Auto.

Now press the Range button and you should see a stable display like  0.000, press again until you get  to  00.00  , which is the  00.00v  to 20.00v fixed range

Thats give the right range and more stable display for the car Battery.

note - I say the 0 -20v range, thats what many meters use, but cannot be sure about yours  without seeing its specifications / make /model no.

[PajeroWaala]

There is no make but just a model number of HH2210. A quick Google shows a possible manufacturer as being Colluck. I picked it up from a car boot sale a few years ago for £4. Just hope the Battery doesn't die on me.

Played with the range button as per your instructions. It controls decimal places. Also shows Milli volts. I guess 2 decimal places will be adequate for the car.

[PajeroWaala]

I am not sure if this the correct AC setting but it jumps about a bit especially when it misfires.

DC is around 14.2 at 1500 rpm

V_20170211_093101.mp4

[oldcodger]

Seems to be a Colluck, a $20 far east make.

Its Ranges are 0 to 3 or 0 to 30, which is fine.

The batteries seem to be 2 simple AAA cells, always worthwile replacing as old ones could leak and run things,

Their may be a dedicated Battery compartment or you may have to remove 2 or  3 screws and remove the entire back panel.

 

[oldcodger]

3 minutes ago, PajeroWaala said:

I am not sure if this the correct AC setting but it jumps about a bit especially when it misfires.

DC is around 14.2 at 1500 rpm

V_20170211_093101.mp4

The AC setting looks  right and the reading looks good as well, though did you put a good few revs on to see if it stays low. eg 3 to 5 thousand rpm

Same with the 14.2v DC, at 1500 rpm , did you really give it some revs to ensure it keeps a 14.2 and is not over volting .

Did you measure the Battery voltage with the engine off /cold before you did these tests - what was it ?

If not leave the car for an hour, then test,

[PajeroWaala]

Where is the internal fuse box in this vehicle. I found the one under the bonnet but inside I removed the glove compartment but it's not there. I can't see anything on driver's side either.

Any ideas guys

[PajeroWaala]

Hi All

I had some time today so tried a few test as per those videos. Here are the scores on the doors for both DC and AC Volts

Engine cold and off - 12.4 DV  /  0.007 AV

When the engine started cold it revs at about 1500 rpm on auto choke - 14.2 DV / Moves about in the range 0.02 to 0.03 AV

Lights and heater on - 14.1 DV after a momentary drop / 0.02 to 0.03 AV

Engine warmed up and off choke idling around 900 with regular misfire the DCV moves around between 12.5 and 12.9. Under load its around 13.9. Please see attached video named DC_Volts. If you turn the sound up you should be hear the misfires. (Sounds like an escape of air every few seconds.). Does the voltage take a dive when it misfires?

The AC_Volts video shows the effect of the misfires on the AC voltage.

Then I did the alternator test with negative on Battery and positive on alternator casing = 0.02 V

Positive on Battery and negative on B+ post = 0.17 V

The diode test appears to yield no results or change. the meter shows 0.002 before and after connecting in diode mode - positive to B+ post and negative to casing. Same result when I switch the connectors around. This test was based on this video but without disconnecting or removing the alternator.  - Diode test

Am I right in thinking the alternator looks good? (apart form the diode test)

Also had another good look under steering wheel for fuse box. There is a cover that doesnt allow access or visibilty to whats behind. Could the fuse box be there and if so how do I remove the cover. I think if I can replace the fuse for the OBD port I might be able to get a reading as to what the problem is. 

 

DC_Volts.mp4

AC_Volts.mp4

[PajeroWaala]

Good news. I finally tracked down the elusive fuse box. Its mounted upside down behind the glove box (which needs to be removed, Easily done). Can't tell that its a fuse box unless you lie down and look upwards. I have attached some pictures to show where it is just in case it helps someone else.

The ODB fuse was blown so I have replaced it, but not restarted the car yet just in case it causes it to blow again. Is there any likelihood of there being any codes stored in the OBD before the fuse went?

Here is the looking up view (ie. from underneath)

 

 

[PajeroWaala]

Hi All

Just to close the circle on this post.

Following the OBD fuse replacement my mechanic was able to identify that cylinder 2 was the source of the misfire. He replaced the ignition coil with the new one that I bought (made by Cambiare price £25) and its running sweet again. The Flickering dash needles have also settled down so it may all have been down to the ignition coil failure.

Anybody heard of Cambiare or what their quality is like?

 

[Notoyboy]

That's good news.  Well done - got there in the end 

[Corolla Altis 10 gen]

I had noticed my Bosch Battery one Shell was very weak, hence the lights and gauges were flickering,now cleared after the replacement.

[MAbuOsba]

On 1/18/2017 at 11:25 AM, PajeroWaala said:

Hi All

My Corolla T3 has started a new dance craze.

Usually when I am slowing down or idling (but not always) the dashboard lights will go out for a split second. When they come back on the all the gauges will go down to zero and then jump back up again. This may happen multiple time in quick succession.

It wouldn't be a huge problem, however, on some occasions the gauges get a little over excited. The temp needle will be in the Hot section, the fuel gauge will show full and the rev counter will be about a 1000 revs higher that it should be. Only the speedo will be accurate.

It feels like a loose connection somewhere, but where to start looking. All help appreciated. Thanx

Paj

 

Hi

I hope you have sort it all out. I seam to face the same problem with my T3, can I ask you what was the issue at the end how did you fix it? 

[FROSTYBALLS]

8 minutes ago, MAbuOsba said:

Hi

I hope you have sort it all out. I seam to face the same problem with my T3, can I ask you what was the issue at the end how did you fix it? 

The member you quoted last visited the Club in 2017, so you're unlikely to receive a reply from them.