Dash turn indicator light

[cloontubrid]

The indictor light in my dash has failed for turning left although all the external flashers work fine and the right turn works ok.

Thought that should be no problem fixing so pulled of the dash surround and removed the 4 screws and pulled clear and disconnected the wiring connection was the faced with 8 smaller screws to remove the dash back cover and had to borrow tool for them as the are not Phillips or flat bladed.

Bit surprised to find no bulb holders just a printed circuit, so rang my local Toyota dealer and was told that the only choice was to replace the whole dash ie gauges etc which will cost nearly £600, what a rip off, what ever Toyota thinking of with a design like that.

You will guess I will not be replacing it and as far as the MOT goes as long as you have some indication in my case audible  ( or both ) its fine as has been confirmed by my Toyota dealer and a local garage.

My Auris is like the Parsons egg, good in parts, and this design in one of the bad parts.

[yossarian247]

Yes my understanding is that as long as there is an audible warning then a dash warning lamp isn't required for the mot. 

Unfortunately design features like this are par for the course in most modern cars. For example I owned a Skoda Octavia where one of the LEDs illuminating the fuel level and temp gauges had started to fail. It was very annoying as it used to flash and flicker on and off intermittently when driving at night. As with the Auris, replacing it would have required a complete new instrument cluster, plus programming it into the ECU by a dealer so I just learned to ignore it. 

However if you can't live with the missing lamp there is a company called BBA Reman who specialise in fixing problems like this with instrument panels. Would probably be a lot cheaper than a new cluster. 

 

[cloontubrid]

Thanks for the reply and the advice for getting it sorted.

Cant understand why they design things like  that when the a small thing like a warning lamp fails one has to go to large expense to rectify.

Its a pity they don't have some sort of option for a factory part exchange refurbished unit, but that's a bit of wishful thinking on my part.

[alan333]

17 hours ago, cloontubrid said:

The indictor light in my dash has failed for turning left although all the external flashers work fine and the right turn works ok.

I'm just curious, and I'm sure you'll have tested this, but I don't suppose the left warning light works when using the hazards?

[yossarian247]

2 hours ago, cloontubrid said:

Thanks for the reply and the advice for getting it sorted.

Cant understand why they design things like  that when the a small thing like a warning lamp fails one has to go to large expense to rectify.

Its a pity they don't have some sort of option for a factory part exchange refurbished unit, but that's a bit of wishful thinking on my part.

The idea behind using LEDs in locations like this is that in the lifespan of the average car an LED shouldn't ever fail or need replacing.  Generally speaking they don't, but the problem is that a tiny % of LEDs fail well before their expected design life. If by chance you happen to be the unlucky person who gets a car with a faulty LED then you potentially have the huge expense of replacing an entire instrument display just to replace one tiny bulb.

[tavy]

"... Bit surprised to find no bulb holders just a printed circuit..."

There's an ordinary SMD green LED, very easy to replace.

[cloontubrid]

Quote

23 hours ago, alan333 said:

I'm just curious, and I'm sure you'll have tested this, but I don't suppose the left warning light works when using the hazards?

Its just the same using the hazard,

.

15 hours ago, tavy said:

"... Bit surprised to find no bulb holders just a printed circuit..."

There's an ordinary SMD green LED, very easy to replace.

If there is a LED there is no way getting at it,there is just a smooth printed circuit.

Thanks for the reply and the advice for getting it sorted.

Cant understand why they design things like  that when the a small thing like a warning lamp fails one has to go to large expense to rectify.

Its a pity they don't have some sort of option for a factory part exchange refurbished unit, but that's a bit of wishful thinking on my part.

[cloontubrid]

Have found another company that will repair dash problems in Leicester called Autotronics that will fix the problem for me while I wait at a cost of £153 including VAT which is much cheaper than a replacement one, as they can test the dash just incase its not the Led or whatever but an wiring fault is useful.

I did try emailing BBA REMAN as yossarian247  kindly suggested but as yet had no reply, anyway as I live in Norfolk Leicester is closer than Derby plus Autotronics appear cheaper and reviews are good.

Now have to sort out when I can go there.

[cloontubrid]

Dash light now sorted and working fine. As the BBA REMAN wanted the car left with them for a week ( £178 )  which I was not going to do and Autotronics seemed a bit a bit vague on when they could do it ( £153 ) I did a search on Google for  dash light repairs and found Scorpio Electronics in Kings Lynn Norfolk that's about 50 miles from me, gave them a ring and arranged to take the car in yesterday morning, when I arrived I expected a business premises but the address was a private house.

No worries as the owner, Mark  removed the dash which I had left the cowel off and only one screw holding the dash in place and he tested the wiring to the dash and confirmed the problem was the LED he then took me with him indoors and allowed to watch him fix the problem. As he had not got the same Green LED as needed he took one from one  of the load of printed circuits   he has. The new LED is slightly darker shade of green than the original but the difference is only noticeable when using the hazards when you can compare. but as Toyota don't supply spare LEDS it means wherever you get a new LED from there is no guarantee it will the right shade of green.

I am very pleased with how the job was handled by Scorpio electronics and it was fixed within an hour. Mark has a fully equipped repair shop for all things electronic and  fully recommend the company. The cost was £60 which is a lot cheaper than the other quotes.

As TAVY says, once you know how, its quiet simple. all I would need for soldering is a smaller soldering iron,

Mark used a adjustable temperature soldering set up and looked an expensive piece of kit as did his other equipment.

 

 

 

                                                                                                                                

[tavy]

I'm glad that you sorted it out, it was a pity to replace entire clock ! 

[Pento]

On 2/17/2017 at 6:18 PM, tavy said:

"... Bit surprised to find no bulb holders just a printed circuit..."

There's an ordinary SMD green LED, very easy to replace.

Anyone have a spec and source for these SMLED's that will supply in 1's and 2's and not 1000

[furtula]

Easier to get a junk PCB and remove it from there, as the OP did.

[yossarian247]

There's plenty for sale on eBay at around £1-1.50 for a pack of ten.

[flash22]

This is a old thread, all you need to do is measure up the led size and find the led colour you require, not had a issue with bright components (ebay) smd leds, i did some heater controls 4-5 years ago, and they are still as good as the day i fitted them

If you really want good quality ones go for Kingbright from RSwww or rapid electronics

ps. unless you have the experience with a soldering iron/ electronics leave well alone

 

 

[Pento]

Folks, thanks for the good advice. Anyone have the specification for the correct SMLED, before I take the clocks out? Rapid Electronics have over 300 SMLED....

[Pento]

Also, how do the speedo and rev counter needle motors / encoders come out?

[furtula]

12 minutes ago, Pento said:

Also, how do the speedo and rev counter needle motors / encoders come out?

Maybe you can find it in the diagrams here, but i doubt they go so in depth

https://www.autocats.ws/manual/toyota/auris_corolla_zze-zr-nde-ade/rm04f0e/index2.html

[Pento]

On 10/1/2019 at 1:19 PM, flash22 said:

This is a old thread, all you need to do is measure up the led size and find the led colour you require, not had a issue with bright components (ebay) smd leds, i did some heater controls 4-5 years ago, and they are still as good as the day i fitted them

If you really want good quality ones go for Kingbright from RSwww or rapid electronics

ps. unless you have the experience with a soldering iron/ electronics leave well alone

 

 

 Hi Bob, Just got the SMD LEDs from RS, 30 for €5. They are TINY! 1608/0603, the second one in your pic. Do you know how to remove the tacho and speedo needles to get access to the component side of the PCB?  Any pointers for the soldering/ desoldering. Found this vid 

which looks manageable. Need to get some flux and solderwick. Thanks

[flash22]

Sorry no,  remove the cluster from the car the back cover is either screwed and/or clipped, as for the needles i use a plastic trim tool but you can use 2 small spoons

be aware that some clusters have screws under the dial faces that hold the back on, dont force it as you WILL break something

 

it should be all common sense

[tavy]

On 10/2/2019 at 9:29 PM, Pento said:

Also, how do the speedo and rev counter needle motors / encoders come out?

Only needles you have to remove, they come out easy; turn it anticlockwise and pull out in the same time.

[Pento]

Just an update on the PCB mounted LED for the indicator arrows.  The 1608/0603 are NOT the correct LEDs. These ones are even too small to bridge the solder pads on the PCB. I took the "Shift Down" LED and swapped it with the blown indicator LED. There is a small silver line on the face which shows polarity. The Shift Down LED did not have the small lens like the indicator one but its not noticeable once installed. Great satisfaction ( I know, I'm sad!) in getting this working again and saving €660 +VAT which Mr Toyota wanted for the new clocks. Second hand would have been €80, about what the specialist soldering gear and flux and cleaner and wick desolder cost me, but the knowledge and experience...priceless!

For reference the correct SMD LED is the 3528, the largest one in Bobs pic above. Thanks very much to everybody for you knowledge, advice and suggestions.

[yossarian247]

Great job! I agree it is very satisfying fixing things like this yourself.

[Ulysses777]

Sorry to bump this thread, but I've also had the same problem with the left indicator LED, and with the help of this thread, ended up replacing it with a Kingbright KPED-3528CGCK, which turned out to be exactly the same colour shade and brightness as the original, hopefully someone will find this info useful.