OBD location on 97 corolla?

[blueb4sunrise]

I apologise if this has been covered already but my searches haven't pulled up any usable info' yet.

Does a car this age have a conventional OBD dignostic socket? If so, do any of you fine and knowledgeable people know where it would be located? 

Its a 1997 5dr 1.6 (E110) with 4A-FE engine.

I have one of those bluetooth obd adapters that links up with the Torq app on my phone which i have successfully used previous on my old car and on my wifes car.

Thanks for reading. 

[blueb4sunrise]

...Nevermind, I just found dignostics socket under the bonnet and its NOT an obd port. 

Oh well never mind, just ignore this thread.

[oldcodger]

Hi,

If its a 16 pin socket under the dashboard, typically below the steering column area, then you can get a read out on the dashboard lights.

With the ignition off, place a wire link between pin 4 and pin 13, then turn the ign only on ( do not start).

The stored code / s  will flash out on the Engine Warning Light, and once  all flashed ,  will repeat until you remove the wire link/ switch off.

Looking at the socket straight on  its pins are top row  L to R   1  to 8   bottom row  9  to 16

Disconnecting the Battery neg lead for a few minutes should clear any stored codes.

[blueb4sunrise]

Thank you for your information, I appreciate it.

[mickburkesnr]

What oldcodger said works. Helped me diagnose my engine light on my 1998 Corolla that has the diagnostic port. No OBD/OBD2 for me!

[blueb4sunrise]

Hi guys. I followed your advice and used a wee wire to jump the connectors in the diagnostic socket. Worked a treat. 

I have fault code 52 (knock sensor signal). 

I think I  have located where the knock sensor is ... under the air intake manifold.  I have unplugged the conector sprayed a little contact cleaner spray and popped it back on (just in case it was manky or something), but the 'check engine' light came back on as soon as I tried driving again. 

Any advice on how best to proceed?

[oldcodger]

Hi,

First off, what exactly is your problem, just an  error light coming on or a visible engine malfunction / noise  , or both ?

Also just to check,  you did read out the error code properly ?  the first set of flashes is the Tens, the second set the Units , I got them the wrong way round on my first attempt ..

Can find little about how to properly /easily test a knock sensor, but this  page suggess a wiring fault  rather than the actual sensor can often be the problem; perhaps you spraying the connector has highlighted a wiring  short ?

Also look on ytube for 'testing knock sensors'

 

http://mdhmotors.com/toyota-knock-sensor/

[blueb4sunrise]

Hi oldcodger, thanks for replying.  

There are no obvious physical signs that there is anything wrong with the engine other than the bright amber 'check engine' light in the instrument binacle.

When reading the fault code, there was a long pause, five blinks, a short pause then two blinks which cycled repetitively.  I interpreted this as 5 in the tens column and 2 in the units column and that there was only one code stored. 

I know that many many cars are fine driving about with the 'check engine ' light showing and and pass their MOT no problems, but I just thought I'd find out what was causing the problem just in case it was either something serious or something i could try and sort myself.. besides, I have to confess that i can be a tad obsessive about a new to me car until the novelty wears off, during which time i am glued to both google and the car with a tool box near by. Lol 

 

 

[oldcodger]

Have found some info, though relating to the later 2002 - on models, but might give you a bit more to go  at.

Seems mine can have a  Denso or Bosch knock sensor fitted.

The Denso sounds like its cable plug has just 2 pins which when measured across the sensors pins should show 120k to 280k ohms resistance.

The Bosch has a 3 pin plug and across pins 1 and 2 should  be more than 1M ohms.

Sounds like the inlet manifold has to be removed to get at it properly ...?

[blueb4sunrise]

I read the link you shared and a few otheres besides.  It seems that it is common to have the actual wiring fail and is more likely to be the root of the problem.  So i have a strategy now,  which is to test the wires first, then attempt to test the actual sensor.  I should be able to do this without removing the manifold. ..but If the sensor is jiggered then I probably would have to remove the manifold to change it. The thought of removing the manifold does not thrill me... I'll have to have a think about that and do some research to decide whether it is within my capabilities. 

Thsnks for the info and advice.

[oldcodger]

Assume you can get your hand under the manifold to disconnect the sensor, so should think its going to be near the connector that the wires fail.

Think I might see where the cables come out from under the engine  and then, with the Battery disconnected, cut both  wires there, so you could then test both the wires and the sensor , if you see what I mean.   you would need  to ideally solder /heat shrink sleeve  the cables back together.( avoid those snap locks)

If it seems to be the sensor, in my Haynes manual 2002-6 model, they list its replacement as a 3/5 difficulty rating.

Seems there is also a book for your year, so at least you could see exactly whats involved first , plus its always a really good reference for normal service and repair.

https://haynes.com/en-gb/search?query=1997 Toyota Corolla

[blueb4sunrise]

Awesome, thanks. 

[blueb4sunrise]

Oh dear!  I went out and had a proper look in the daylight and realised I was originally looking at the wrong sensor (was a temp sensor).   The knock sensor is very deeply buried well out of hands reach right under the intake manifold, I cant even see it, or the wires.  It looks to me like the manifold and all the associated gubbins will probably have to come out just to test the little bugger...

I have decided to start saving up for the garage bill......grumble grumble.

[oldcodger]

Your engine is the other way around the the later models which have the inlet manifold to the front.

The sensor looks accessible from below the manifold, though not sure if any cross members block access to it or if they can be readily removed ?

If you get one of those Haynes manulas it should tell you how to get at it  ? ... a good buy either way.

If you are paying  garage to strip things down to test it, you might as well get them  to simply replace it, bit like a clutch, if you have to take the gearbox out its false economy not to replace the clutch.

[blueb4sunrise]

6 minutes ago, oldcodger said:

If you get one of those Haynes manuals it should tell you how to get at it  ? ... a good buy either way.

If you are paying  garage to strip things down to test it, you might as well get them  to simply replace it, bit like a clutch, if you have to take the gearbox out its false economy not to replace the clutch.

Agreed!  

[mickburkesnr]

Could you not put the car on ramps and go underneath and do it?