Sticking brake calliper possibly.

[SanaYusuf]

Hey guys, had this problem for a while, when using the brakes aggressively i get a rotational rubbing sound from the n/s/f wheel after the brakes are applied, this then disappears when braking again but returns for abit after taking my foot off the brake but goes away when brakes cool down.

My suspicion is that the calliper is partially sticking and so I'm thinking of replacing it.

I don't think the disc is warped as when driving and braking normally there is no rubbing sound nor any vibration or pulling, brakes seem to work fine otherwise.

I replaced the pads, discs and slider pins at the beginning of 2016.

Any idea on where i can get a decent replacement calliper? should i replace in pairs or can i get away with just replacing the dodgy one?

Only other thing i can think is that the slider pins are the issue, replaced them according to how i found them, pin with rubber sleeve into the bottom of the calliper and smooth pin in the top. The bottom pin was jammed and took some effort to remove, even after replacing with new pin and grease there is still no movement in the bottom pin, should there be?

[RazzerRazor]

Tricky one mate. I'd say if you end up changing the caliper, swap them both if it's not a fortune. Only cos they're that old now and if ones gone sooner or later the other will! 

Maybe just have the discs checked first before you purchase anything. I know you swapped them a year ago but you'd be surprised if you've been a little.....say hard on them ha ha. Won't cost that to whip a wheel off n check em. 

Not sure how they sit on though. Not got the bottle to do that me 

[oldcodger]

First, you should always replace brake parts in axle pairs , no just one wheel, otherwise you will get a braking imbalance thats not just dangerous but will fail the mot.

Not sure of the orientation of your calipers but if you see my post in this thread it indicates how I was told to determine the location of the slider pins, though it depends on the position your calipers are mounted.

If you get the pins the wrong way around, brake performace is poor and pad wear uneven even after a 100 miles, have you inspected you pads ?

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/169198-brake-slider-pins-location/

If your lower  pin with the rubber sleeve is sized then you might have a wrong pin, or the rubber is swollen, or the hole corroded etc.

Both pins should be free enough to move the caliper by hand.

If a caliper is seized, then this post may give you some info, where PW got a mechanic to change things for him, though I personally would have changed the pistons as well, not just the O rings.

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/176834-noise-coming-from-wheel-every-rotation/

[lilpopjim]

If the guide pins are okay then it's most likely the piston. 

All you need is some 2000 grit sand paper or an old pair of jeans that will rub stuck on dirt and smooth the surface and some new O rings. When i had a stuck caliper i popped the old one out by pressing the pedal until i could take it out (be careful not to spill fluid on paint etc!), cleaned the piston as there was a lot of gunk around it. Just a hot soapy bath and a good clean is all it needs. I whacked it back in and it was absolutely fine up till the day i sold my Corolla for an Auris.

[SanaYusuf]

2 hours ago, lilpopjim said:

If the guide pins are okay then it's most likely the piston. 

All you need is some 2000 grit sand paper or an old pair of jeans that will rub stuck on dirt and smooth the surface and some new O rings. When i had a stuck caliper i popped the old one out by pressing the pedal until i could take it out (be careful not to spill fluid on paint etc!), cleaned the piston as there was a lot of gunk around it. Just a hot soapy bath and a good clean is all it needs. I whacked it back in and it was absolutely fine up till the day i sold my Corolla for an Auris.

Would I need to bleed the caliper after doing that? 

Also is this the kit I would need?

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=332155942452&category=63717&pm=1&ds=0&t=1490020028216

[lilpopjim]

Yeah that kit looks okay. I got mine off eBay but that picture rings a bell so i might've got the same kit!

It's a straight forward job to be honest. Just take the gunk off the cylinder and make sure the surface is nice and smooth and of course don't let any dirt enter the caliper! 

I found it a bit tricky to get the cylinder back into the caliper; just make sure it's dead straight when you manage to get it in. Undo the bleed nipple of course so there's no pressure holding you back! 

Once the cylinder is in the caliper it'll just push in fairly easily.

Good luck!

[SanaYusuf]

21 minutes ago, lilpopjim said:

Yeah that kit looks okay. I got mine off ebay but that picture rings a bell so i might've got the same kit!

It's a straight forward job to be honest. Just take the gunk off the cylinder and make sure the surface is nice and smooth and of course don't let any dirt enter the caliper! 

I found it a bit tricky to get the cylinder back into the caliper; just make sure it's dead straight when you manage to get it in. Undo the bleed nipple of course so there's no pressure holding you back! 

Once the cylinder is in the caliper it'll just push in fairly easily.

Good luck!

Cheers lilpopjim. Will get the caliper off next weekend and have a look at the pins and pads again, if I recall the rubber surrounding the piston had a small tear so that's probably my problem.

I don't suppose you remember which way your slider went into the caliper? I.e smooth pin at the top or bottom, presently I have smooth at the top and pin with rubber sleeve at the bottom.

[lilpopjim]

No problem. If it's got a tear than that's probably your problem!

I can't remember as this was probably two years ago now; both pins should be protected with a rubber grommet with plenty of copper grease inside. If i was you i'd go to the other side of the car and dismantle that caliper to see what ones go where for peace of mind.

[SanaYusuf]

7 minutes ago, lilpopjim said:

No problem. If it's got a tear than that's probably your problem!

I can't remember as this was probably two years ago now; both pins should be protected with a rubber grommet with plenty of copper grease inside. If i was you i'd go to the other side of the car and dismantle that caliper to see what ones go where for peace of mind.

Already had them apart beginning of last year, smooth pin was on the top but had uneven wear on the pads.

It's just that some say smooth pin at the bottom, others say opposite.

Pins and grommets were replaced and i used slider pin grease supplied with pins.

[KenMavor]

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

 

Smooth pin at the bottom.

See above parts catalogue for the diagrams that should help you.  Also very, very good for trying to figure out part numbers.

[SanaYusuf]

6 hours ago, KenMavor said:

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

 

Smooth pin at the bottom.

See above parts catalogue for the diagrams that should help you.  Also very, very good for trying to figure out part numbers.

Ok, so smooth pin at the bottom?! Thanks.

[SanaYusuf]

I haven't managed to get the caliper off yet to properly check the pads but after taking this photo it looks like my pads are uneven leading me to think it's the slider pins being in the wrong position.

I have ordered some Brembo pads from ECP.

If the pads are worn unevenly once I swap round the slider pins would they even out by themselves or should I just replace with the fresh pads?

Also it looks like there is a slight lip towards the centre of the disc caused it seems by the uneven pad wear, is that an issue?

[oldcodger]

Pad wear, do you mean that looking at them in situ one is more worn down than the other ?

Most older brakes will always show a small difference in wear rate.

A large difference can mean a problem with the slider pins  and / or pistons.

Knowing you have a split in your piston cover , just creating a worse problem by not renewing it.

Having the silder pins the wrong way around will cause uneven wear on each pad, ie each pad has more wear on  one half of its pad surface,  and it affects braking performance, very obvious from new / first few miles,   as I found out by my mistake of fitting them incorrectly.

Your disc does look like it has a wear shoulder, so what you should do is measure the thickness of the disc in the middle, you have a minimum thckness specifed in the workshop manual for your model  or the other TS guys will know what it is .

Worn out in a year , quiet possible depending on the quality / hardness of the disc and pads and your driving .

You need to whip off the caliper and examine all the parts to check / measure  exactly whats worn.

[SanaYusuf]

1 hour ago, oldcodger said:

Pad wear, do you mean that looking at them in situ one is more worn down than the other ?

Most older brakes will always show a small difference in wear rate.

A large difference can mean a problem with the slider pins  and / or pistons.

Knowing you have a split in your piston cover , just creating a worse problem by not renewing it.

Having the silder pins the wrong way around will cause uneven wear on each pad, ie each pad has more wear on  one half of its pad surface,  and it affects braking performance, very obvious from new / first few miles,   as I found out by my mistake of fitting them incorrectly.

Your disc does look like it has a wear shoulder, so what you should do is measure the thickness of the disc in the middle, you have a minimum thckness specifed in the workshop manual for your model  or the other TS guys will know what it is .

Worn out in a year , quiet possible depending on the quality / hardness of the disc and pads and your driving .

You need to whip off the caliper and examine all the parts to check / measure  exactly whats worn.

Yeah was gonna take both calipers off to examine last weekend but didn't get the time, hopefully will get the chance this weekend if the weather is decent, so will no more then.

[KenMavor]

I would do a complete overhaul.

New discs, new pads and new pins.

Then make sure the pins are the right way round.

Should not take long.  I always find that a complete brake overhaul gives you a baseline for the future.

Also....when doing the overhaul check the pistons and calipers. Make sure everything works as it should do.  Make sure rubber seals are in good nick as well.

I would suggest that you replace the calipers as well but depends what condition they are in and whether you buy reconditioned ones or just new second hand ones.  I am not of the opinion that you need to replace both calipers a la springs, shockers etc.

 

Ken

 

[SanaYusuf]

26 minutes ago, KenMavor said:

I would do a complete overhaul.

New discs, new pads and new pins.

Then make sure the pins are the right way round.

Should not take long.  I always find that a complete brake overhaul gives you a baseline for the future.

Also....when doing the overhaul check the pistons and calipers. Make sure everything works as it should do.  Make sure rubber seals are in good nick as well.

I would suggest that you replace the calipers as well but depends what condition they are in and whether you buy reconditioned ones or just new second hand ones.  I am not of the opinion that you need to replace both calipers a la springs, shockers etc.

 

Ken

 

Well at the very least I will change the pads as have ordered them.

The pins are about a year old so as long as there is no damage to them I will just regrease them and fit the right way.

Will try and take some photos once I have the callipers off to show their current condition.

[SanaYusuf]

Ok well I've rounded off the bolts for the slider pins, are they a Toyota only part?

[KenMavor]

20 minutes ago, SanaYusuf said:

Ok well I've rounded off the bolts for the slider pins, are they a Toyota only part?

https://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/

Have a look here..get the right part numbers and then see if you can get them cheaper on fleabay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC0.A0.H0.Xtoyota+corolla+brake.TRS0&_nkw=toyota+corolla+brake&_sacat=0

Front or rear???

 

 

[SanaYusuf]

1 hour ago, KenMavor said:

https://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/

Have a look here..get the right part numbers and then see if you can get them cheaper on fleabay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC0.A0.H0.Xtoyota+corolla+brake.TRS0&_nkw=toyota+corolla+brake&_sacat=0

Front or rear???

 

 

Front passenger side.

[KenMavor]

8 hours ago, SanaYusuf said:

Front passenger side.

Get the pack that contains replacement slider bolts for both front wheels.  The bolts are pretty sort and will continue to cause problems.

Brakeparts part number is BCF1376

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xbcf1376.TRS0&_nkw=bcf1376&_sacat=0

You have to check these are the right parts for your car.  For £17, on eBay, you get slider pins and rubbers for both sides.

[lilpopjim]

I'm pretty sure those are the parts i used (as well as piston o-rings etc) to rebuild the front callipers on my old Corolla a couple years ago. Worked a treat! 

[SanaYusuf]

Will order from brake parts as only 13 odd pounds.

[KenMavor]

4 hours ago, SanaYusuf said:

Will order from brake parts as only 13 odd pounds.

That, I think, is only for one side.....suggest you do both.

[SanaYusuf]

2 hours ago, KenMavor said:

That, I think, is only for one side.....suggest you do both.

I only rounded on one side due to my stupidity, trying to undo but in fact tightening them instead.

I only replaced the slider pins last year so I'll re use them, just need two replacement  bolts really.

[oldcodger]

Don't forget those slider bolts are not the soft steel ones you get at your local hardware store.