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Marqs


MARQS
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HELLO I'M A OWNER OF THE TOYOTA AVENSIS D4D 2.0 TDI 2008. After changing the brake pads in all 4 wheels and venting all of the clippers i have problem with the brakes.            
On the turend off engine the brakes are ok-ish, that's after pressing the pedal twice, before that the brakes are soft. On the turned on engine the brakes do feel really soft and goes down to the floor.

Also there is a wierd sound when im pressing the brakes, it sound like something is pushing the air out. 
I have checked all of the break tubes, break hoses and there is nothing wrong with them. 
So i was wondering if there is a problem with the brake pump?
If anyone has any anserws please contact me on this email: mmarczak38@gmail.com

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Hi Marqs, please explain what you mean by venting all of the clippers?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

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I think you might be describing a possible problem with the servo assistance brakes. 

 

Check this link. If the pedal does not work as described you can report back

http://www.ukmot.com/MOT test/footbrake.asp

 

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59 minutes ago, Duggerz said:

Hi Marqs, please explain what you mean by venting all of the clippers?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Duggerz said:

Hi Marqs, please explain what you mean by venting all of the clippers?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

After bleeding the brakes, as I press the brake on the engine off the first two pedal presses are empty with the sound of the air coming out then the brake pedal is normal and while the engine is in the same air out and the brake pedal is soft and reaches the floor itself

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Ok, you have air in the braking system. You'll need to purge the whole system properly with new fluid, making sure to use a bleed kit or have someone rise help so you don't get any air flowing back up the pipes. Also make sure the reservoir does not empty. Unfortunately now that you have air in the system it is much more difficult and there may be a special procedure, maybe someone else can help with that.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Duggerz said:

Ok, you have air in the braking system. You'll need to purge the whole system properly with new fluid, making sure to use a bleed kit or have someone rise help so you don't get any air flowing back up the pipes. Also make sure the reservoir does not empty. Unfortunately now that you have air in the system it is much more difficult and there may be a special procedure, maybe someone else can help with that.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

Ok, i just understand
Bleeding brakes on saturday more than 40 times all the wheels, brake lines are flowing, can there be air? Can it be a problem with the brake pump servo ???

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Did you have this problem before you began bleeding brakes? If so then yes it could be servo, could also be master cylinder but there would be a leak.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

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41 minutes ago, Duggerz said:

Did you have this problem before you began bleeding brakes? If so then yes it could be servo, could also be master cylinder but there would be a leak.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

So I had the same problem when replacing the brake pads and the broken brake pipe, so the pedal was very low, now the seal is tight but the effect is the same

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Ok if the problem is as a result of a broken pipe then it will be sure to an airlock. Depending on how much air has entered, you may need to bleed the whole system including the abs block. You will need someone to pump the pedal as you work the nipples or joints. All the assistant to pump DOWN then release the nipple and tighten again then all the assistant to let UP on the pedal. That way there is always pressure behind the release of fluid. Sorry if you already know this, I just wanted to be sure.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Duggerz said:

Ok if the problem is as a result of a broken pipe then it will be sure to an airlock. Depending on how much air has entered, you may need to bleed the whole system including the abs block. You will need someone to pump the pedal as you work the nipples or joints. All the assistant to pump DOWN then release the nipple and tighten again then all the assistant to let UP on the pedal. That way there is always pressure behind the release of fluid. Sorry if you already know this, I just wanted to be sure.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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Just now, MARQS said:

 

Ok thank you very much for your help i am now more confident about the air in the brake system. have a nice evening

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6 minutes ago, Duggerz said:

Ok if the problem is as a result of a broken pipe then it will be sure to an airlock. Depending on how much air has entered, you may need to bleed the whole system including the abs block. You will need someone to pump the pedal as you work the nipples or joints. All the assistant to pump DOWN then release the nipple and tighten again then all the assistant to let UP on the pedal. That way there is always pressure behind the release of fluid. Sorry if you already know this, I just wanted to be sure.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

 

Ok thank you very much for your help i am now more confident about the air in the brake system. have a nice evening

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I have just seen this post and see a few problems. I assume that all that all the pistons were pushed back, using suitable tools. Here is the normal procedure for changing brake pads and discs. I will only state the technical bits, not the obvious things. 

The pads have been removed - press the piston back into the caliper. You may need a piston wind back tool and in case of some cars, reverse thread tool for the left hand side.

Fit the new brakes (and discs if replacing) and reassemble, including putting the wheels back on.

Pump the pedal a few times to get the pads to contact the discs.

That is all is needed to changing the brake pads and discs, no bleeding just pumping.

The only time you need to bleed the brakes is if the fluid needs replacing, a part of the hydraulic system or a caliper has been changed. Then the system needs to pressure bled. Ordinary pumping the brake pedal does not work! I use Gunsons Easi Bleed, and it is fast and works great. I found that 25psi was needed to get the fluid through, when I last used the system on my Mk1 Avensis and the pedal was solid.  

I had a friend who made the same mistake years back. He thought you have to bleed brakes, and had a lot of hassle to get the pressure back in the brakes. He even argued it was the right way, until I demonstrated my way when my brakes needed changing - changed the pad, pumped the pedal, and had solid brakes.

Gunsons Easibleed kit should cost under £20.

 

 

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