Yaris Hybrid 80 MPG

[javnas]

Hi guys,

After 2 weeks of driving the new Yaris, I'm finally achieving 80 mpg.

The trick is to recharge the Battery whenever there is momentum. 

Half way depress the brakes and you'll see the needle goes to charge area (blue). The more you charge whilst you have momentum , the more it'll run on Battery.

Hope it helps others on the forum too.

[Anthony Poli]

One thing I have started doing, is to set off from stationary on electric and once you have accelerated to 15 mph, then accelerate until the power needle is just past the centre of the Eco.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cyker]

I wouldn't recommend that; Firstly, you'll confuse the heck out of people behind you if you're continuously braking for no reason and you're just contributing to this image that hybrid drivers are inconsiderate jerks.
Secondly, if you're braking you're slowing the car down - The regen process is supposedly only something like 40-50% efficient whereas if you maintain your momentum so you don't have to accelerate later you're conserving energy rather than trying to force the system to waste energy by scavenging t when there's no need to.

If I misunderstood what you're trying to say, and you just mean brake earlier and gentler when stopping, then yeah, that is better and very efficient as the system can regen much more energy over a long gentle braking cycle than if you brake quite sharply. You also save on brake wear! But you might get the rusty-disc problem if you do this all the time so it's good to give it a hard brake now and then too.

[Anthony Poli]

3 hours ago, Cyker said:

I wouldn't recommend that; Firstly, you'll confuse the heck out of people behind you if you're continuously braking for no reason and you're just contributing to this image that hybrid drivers are inconsiderate jerks.

Secondly, if you're braking you're slowing the car down - The regen process is supposedly only something like 40-50% efficient whereas if you maintain your momentum so you don't have to accelerate later you're conserving energy rather than trying to force the system to waste energy by scavenging t when there's no need to.

 

If I misunderstood what you're trying to say, and you just mean brake earlier and gentler when stopping, then yeah, that is better and very efficient as the system can regen much more energy over a long gentle braking cycle than if you brake quite sharply. You also save on brake wear! But you might get the rusty-disc problem if you do this all the time so it's good to give it a hard brake now and then too.

 

With hindsight my post gave the wrong impression.

I definitely don't crawl away from standstill, but don't cause the traction control to kick in either ;-)

Yes keeping keeping a constant speed and reading the road ahead, most of the time the brakes aren't used until the speed is below the limit of the regen. Though some people do provide the necessity for using the brakes.

Hopefully I have phrased things better this time.

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Cyker]

Oh no mate, I was posting in reply to the OP, not you!!

 

Your wossnames are fine! You are a well known knowledgeable person of HSDs, more so than I! :)

 

I was just voicing my skepticism of their 'momentum braking' idea...! :P

 

[FROSTYBALLS]

Of course the multi information display on the Yaris will be optimistic - a more accurate consumption figure would be obtained from using brim-to-brim calculations.

[dcweather]

Never had anything like that. On a long mixed journey can get 68 mpg including 75mph on motorway for say 40%. Around town locally get 58mpg summer 48 mpg winter. I'm happy with that because only half that on short journeys in a conventional small petrol.

[Anthony Poli]

Never had anything like that. On a long mixed journey can get 68 mpg including 75mph on motorway for say 40%. Around town locally get 58mpg summer 48 mpg winter. I'm happy with that because only half that on short journeys in a conventional small petrol.

 

What tyre pressure is yours running on?

They don't have low by much, to make a noticeable difference.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Anthony Poli]

Never had anything like that. On a long mixed journey can get 68 mpg including 75mph on motorway for say 40%. Around town locally get 58mpg summer 48 mpg winter. I'm happy with that because only half that on short journeys in a conventional small petrol.

 

What tyre pressure is yours running on?

They don't have low by much, to make a noticeable difference.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Anthony Poli]

Never had anything like that. On a long mixed journey can get 68 mpg including 75mph on motorway for say 40%. Around town locally get 58mpg summer 48 mpg winter. I'm happy with that because only half that on short journeys in a conventional small petrol.

 

What tyre pressure is yours running on?

They don't have low by much, to make a noticeable difference.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[YarisHybrid2016]

We heard you the first time! :P

I did a 30 mile journey a couple of weeks ago after having the tracking adjusted and the tyre pressures done, and I got a computer reported 79 MPG. Journey was a mix of A road at 60 MPH and country back-road up to 50 MPH, but mostly around 40 MPH (so much of the time it was running on electric only). Light traffic.

Nothing special was done other than decelerating early (foot off accelerator and letting it gently decelerate for corners) and gentle acceleration, trying to use the terrain as much as possible.

The two items I found to make the most difference: lifting off "earlier than feels comfortable" when approaching a bend or junction, and not exceeding the second tick mark above ECO to accelerate. The warm-up phase seems to kill the economy, too. If I reset the trip after it has done a run (and therefore warm) the recorded average is much higher than if I reset it from cold.

I found that below 20 MPH you can pretty much accelerate as hard as you like, as it seems (and sounds) to only be over 20 MPH that it really brings the ICE in to pull the car. If you put your foot on the floor, then yes it will give it everything it has got from a standing start, but otherwise it seems to limit the ICE.

Avoiding the power band seems to be a requirement to get awesome gas mileage, otherwise you only get great gas mileage!

Not done a motorway run for a while, but off out soon (couple of weeks) so I'll do a run at 70 MPH (approx. 50 miles) and record the stats, then take it easy on the way back and see what it does. It's not an ideal test, but should give an idea. I'll do it for the motorway portion only so it will be up to temp for both tests.

[dcweather]

My tyre pressures are set just above recommended by about 2 psi. I can get more on the sort of journeys described above. The 58 mpg is an average from mostly 3-5 miles journeys, never above 40 mph and a fair bit of slowing and restarting for a number of mini-roundabouts. Electric only for probably nearly 50% of the journey. Looking at my 1 litre TFSi 3 cylinder Audi over a similar journey from cold you would only be getting about  30 mpg. I've noticed with all cars I have had that if you rezero the mpg after 5 minutes of running and the car has warmed up the figures improve dramatically. Two things I have noticed that hammer the Yaris mpg are going over 70 mph and going up hill, neither surprising and lets face it most uphill journeys are always compensated by an equal downhill amount sooner or later ;-)

[YarisHybrid2016]

I found the same thing regarding resetting the average after the warm-up phase.

[javnas]

Best recorded MPG so far. 

[Anthony Poli]

My tyre pressures are set just above recommended by about 2 psi. I can get more on the sort of journeys described above. The 58 mpg is an average from mostly 3-5 miles journeys, never above 40 mph and a fair bit of slowing and restarting for a number of mini-roundabouts. Electric only for probably nearly 50% of the journey. Looking at my 1 litre TFSi 3 cylinder Audi over a similar journey from cold you would only be getting about  30 mpg. I've noticed with all cars I have had that if you rezero the mpg after 5 minutes of running and the car has warmed up the figures improve dramatically. Two things I have noticed that hammer the Yaris mpg are going over 70 mph and going up hill, neither surprising and lets face it most uphill journeys are always compensated by an equal downhill amount sooner or later ;-)

 

Resetting after its warm, that's cheating ;-)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Anthony Poli]

Best recorded MPG so far. 

 

Last Saturday I managed to get up to 80 mpg, then I caught up with traffic in front and then it fell to about 75.

Using the hybrid assistant, it reported that 33% was on EV.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[YarisHybrid2016]

I did a 15 mile journey two days ago and computer reported average of 80 MPG.   Most of the journey was at 50 MPH, then 40 and 30 MPH for the last mile or so. Got lucky with lights and traffic so I never needed to stop.

[Cyker]

That was your peak, not your average! Still pretty good tho'. I'd be really curious to see what you're getting tank-to-tank!

I just put 39 litres into my D4D, with Trip A showing 597 miles, which I feel is a bit sub-par, but still pretty good I think! :)

 

[YarisHybrid2016]

4 hours ago, Cyker said:

That was your peak, not your average!

Me? Yes - it was a single 15-mile journey. Nowhere did I claim it to be anything else.

It depends the kind of driving I do, but between 60-65 MPG tank-to-tank.

I've been looking at the per-trip stats lately out of interest. Things that kill the overall gas milage are:

* Traffic driving sub-optimally (if I get stuck at 45 MPH or they are slowing down and speeding up strangely)
* Traffic lights, road junctions where I have to stop and start again
* Slow traffic where it should be free-flowing
* High speed
* Warm-up phase

If we could clear the road of everyone else when out driving, we'd be most of the way to getting it sorted.

[Cyker]

Well when I become beneficent dictator of the world for life the 9th thing I will do is ban anyone who is a worse driver than me from driving, which I feel will eliminate at least 2/3rds of all drivers. This especially applies to anyone who:

a) Waits in traffic holding down the foot brake ("If a pause becomes a wait, use the handbrake OR I KILL YOU!" - My driving instructor)

b) Never signals *before* turning or changing lanes (Anyone doing it AFTER will also extra time in the scorpion pit)

c) Stays in the middle/outer lanes, esp. on nearly empty motorways and when doing less than 70mph! (There is even a law against this now! Why does everyone still do it???). Exceptions will be made where the left lanes goes... somewhere else.

So I feel this would improve traffic flow and reduce emissions quite well! 

 

[Anthony Poli]

1 hour ago, Cyker said:

Well when I become beneficent dictator of the world for life the 9th thing I will do is ban anyone who is a worse driver than me from driving, which I feel will eliminate at least 2/3rds of all drivers. This especially applies to anyone who:

a) Waits in traffic holding down the foot brake ("If a pause becomes a wait, use the handbrake OR I KILL YOU!" - My driving instructor)

b) Never signals *before* turning or changing lanes (Anyone doing it AFTER will also extra time in the scorpion pit)

c) Stays in the middle/outer lanes, esp. on nearly empty motorways and when doing less than 70mph! (There is even a law against this now! Why does everyone still do it???). Exceptions will be made where the left lanes goes... somewhere else.

So I feel this would improve traffic flow and reduce emissions quite well! 

 

Did the driving instructor have a passing resemblance to any historic dictator lol

[YarisHybrid2016]

a) Guilty as charged.   I don't use the handbrake as the car tries to pull against Drive, Neutral is not an option as it can't charge the HV Battery, and I don't like the idea of risking transmission damage in the event of a shunt by using Park (at the very least, it would require a strip-down to recover and fix the parking pawl).

From what I can tell, in Drive with the handbrake on, the car tries to pull against the handbrake (flattening the HV Battery at an accelerated rate), whereas when holding the car on the footbrake, it disengages the creep function and does not use any power.

I do it for technical reasons...

I don't understand why the car tries to pull against the handbrake - I would have thought it would have seen it the same way as the footbrake, and cancel creep function. 

[Anthony Poli]

2 hours ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

a) Guilty as charged.   I don't use the handbrake as the car tries to pull against Drive, Neutral is not an option as it can't charge the HV battery, and I don't like the idea of risking transmission damage in the event of a shunt by using Park (at the very least, it would require a strip-down to recover and fix the parking pawl).

From what I can tell, in Drive with the handbrake on, the car tries to pull against the handbrake (flattening the HV battery at an accelerated rate), whereas when holding the car on the footbrake, it disengages the creep function and does not use any power.

I do it for technical reasons...

I don't understand why the car tries to pull against the handbrake - I would have thought it would have seen it the same way as the footbrake, and cancel creep function. 

I don't see why they kept the creep that a normal automatic has, or at least make it an feature that can be disabled.

 

[Cyker]

Yeah, I was wondering why the handbrake doesn't cancel the creep function in the HSD too...

 

However, thinking about it, I think it's because they expect you to use the handbrake for hillstarts - If it didn't pull against it then there'd be a slight delay where you'd roll back and that'd earn you at least a minor in a test.

It's annoying that there isn't really a better option other than Park as HSDs have blindingly bright brake lights and I *really* hate sitting behind them at night :(  (This is where the "leave a bigger gap" fuel-saving technique has a side benefit )

That said I can understand why you'd not want to use Park after reading that other thread about the risk of being rear-ended in P-mode causing the pawl to break and lock it in P-mode permanently!

And no, my instructor was just a very silly man; Great guy, but so silly... I suspect he was also a fan of Achmed the Dead Terrorist...

 

[Anthony Poli]

23 minutes ago, Cyker said:

Yeah, I was wondering why the handbrake doesn't cancel the creep function in the HSD too...

 

However, thinking about it, I think it's because they expect you to use the handbrake for hillstarts - If it didn't pull against it then there'd be a slight delay where you'd roll back and that'd earn you at least a minor in a test.

It's annoying that there isn't really a better option other than Park as HSDs have blindingly bright brake lights and I *really* hate sitting behind them at night :(  (This is where the "leave a bigger gap" fuel-saving technique has a side benefit )

That said I can understand why you'd not want to use Park after reading that other thread about the risk of being rear-ended in P-mode causing the pawl to break and lock it in P-mode permanently!

And no, my instructor was just a very silly man; Great guy, but so silly... I suspect he was also a fan of Achmed the Dead Terrorist...

 

Thought the hill start assist was on all the hybrids, not that i have used it much since the creeps and you can't stall a hybrid 

I look in the mirror and check to see if the driver behind is paying attention or not, sadly some drivers see the brake lights go out and their off, before the car in front starts moving.