Yaris Hybrid 80 MPG

[Cyker]

Yeah but I bet most owners don't know how to use the hill start assist, or even that they have it! I don't really understand why it is a thing anyway... I never needed no hill start assist in the godawful BSM Corsa I learned in, and if you can do a hill start in that with nothing but the handbrake and good clutch control you should be able to do it in anything!

I wonder if the creep behaviours are something you can have changed at the dealership? Like the way you can change the reverse beeps etc. (Actually does anyone have a list of things like that you can have changed??)

 

[YarisHybrid2016]

Mine has Hill Start Assist and I must say it works very well!

It detects inclination, and if in Drive, it prevents the car rolling backwards. In Reverse, it prevents the car rolling forwards!!! 

[Cyker]

Is that what Hill start Assist is now?

 

I thought it was that thing where you have to mash the brake pedal really hard so it stays on until you press the accelerator!

 

If the car holds itself anyway then I really see no reason for it to push against the handbrake!!!

 

[Anthony Poli]

2 minutes ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

Mine has Hill Start Assist and I must say it works very well!

It detects inclination, and if in Drive, it prevents the car rolling backwards. In Reverse, it prevents the car rolling forwards!!! 

That's something I have never tried, 

[YarisHybrid2016]

I suddenly has this thought of "it stops it rolling backwards in Drive - I wonder if it is smart enough to stop it rolling forwards in reverse", so I turned the car around to test, and sure enough, it did! 

[Anthony Poli]

Well it's nice to know and saves me trying it myself 

[dcweather]

The comments about driving in the middle lane of motorways needs more qualification. I would never cruise along in the middle lane in low traffic with nothing in front of me but in my opinion roads like the M25 which is always busy I would hardly ever go in the inside lane. Most accidents are caused by changing lane. On the M25 this would mean constantly pulling in and out of lorries in the slow lane (and now second lane where 4 lanes) as their speed fluctuates up and down hill. Furthermore they are always pulling out and of late I've actually seen lorries three abreast in the first three lanes of four with a speed differential of about 5-10 mph between each one. Bearing in mind the speed limit is 70mph nobody should be doing more than 75-80 mph.

So if I am doing 70mph with the outside lane completely clear I certainly would not keep changing lane in traffic to suit some BMW driver doing 90 mph  who can't be bothered to use the outside lane while breaking the law! If the road is clear i should ad I would always used the furthest inside lane that is clear whatever speed I was doing.

[YarisHybrid2016]

I agree - if you are FASTER than the traffic in the inside lane AND you're doing 70 MPH, WHAT IS THE PROBLEM??

As long as the nearest* traffic in the inside lane isn't 2 miles away, I don't see a problem with it.

Note: if it will take me more than about 2 minutes driving time at 70 MPH to catch up the car ahead in the inside lane, I will move over. As no-one can legally drive faster than 70 MPH in normal driving, the argument for being an inconvenience to other road users evaporates.

Another major annoyance is how many people do not look far ahead at the traffic situation. I will sometimes change lane "early" to account for conditions further down the road, knowing I will want to change lane anyway.

[dickins]

Interesting comments re braking. I have taken to using the engine brake extensively. Initially, I used it only on hills but now I don't seem to use the foot brake much, except for coming to a halt. It gives steady, gentle braking and is quite a relaxing way to drive, I find; and it saves on conventional brake wear. I am always conscious of cars behind, who won't see brake lights come on. I don't know what the regeneration impact is, compared with using the foot brake.

NB: I get 60-65 mpg, occasionally better, unless I am maintaining 70 mph on a run, which seems reasonable to me, especially driving in and around London.

[YarisHybrid2016]

B mode is less efficient. It will use engine braking regardless, meaning energy that could be recovered into the Battery is lost.

The mechanical brakes only operate if you brake hard (needle below the bottom of the blue band).

[dickins]

I agree that B mode is much less efficient if you leave it there. I shift from normal drive when I want mild braking, then shift back immediately. It is an alternative to using the foot brake that probably wouldn't suit everyone, I'm sure - but it works for me. I do wonder how effective it is at re-charging though - I just don't know the answer to that.

[Anthony Poli]

On 17/04/2017 at 3:48 AM, YarisHybrid2016 said:

We heard you the first time! :P

I did a 30 mile journey a couple of weeks ago after having the tracking adjusted and the tyre pressures done, and I got a computer reported 79 MPG. Journey was a mix of A road at 60 MPH and country back-road up to 50 MPH, but mostly around 40 MPH (so much of the time it was running on electric only). Light traffic.

Nothing special was done other than decelerating early (foot off accelerator and letting it gently decelerate for corners) and gentle acceleration, trying to use the terrain as much as possible.

The two items I found to make the most difference: lifting off "earlier than feels comfortable" when approaching a bend or junction, and not exceeding the second tick mark above ECO to accelerate. The warm-up phase seems to kill the economy, too. If I reset the trip after it has done a run (and therefore warm) the recorded average is much higher than if I reset it from cold.

I found that below 20 MPH you can pretty much accelerate as hard as you like, as it seems (and sounds) to only be over 20 MPH that it really brings the ICE in to pull the car. If you put your foot on the floor, then yes it will give it everything it has got from a standing start, but otherwise it seems to limit the ICE.

Avoiding the power band seems to be a requirement to get awesome gas mileage, otherwise you only get great gas mileage!

Not done a motorway run for a while, but off out soon (couple of weeks) so I'll do a run at 70 MPH (approx. 50 miles) and record the stats, then take it easy on the way back and see what it does. It's not an ideal test, but should give an idea. I'll do it for the motorway portion only so it will be up to temp for both tests.

I have repeated my trip of 14 miles, 11 miles of motorway. This time I didn't go into the par section, but the average mpg didn't end up much higher.

The only difference was the average hadn't dropped below 46, during my acceleration unto 70. Today I reached 63, compared to 56 last time. A longer trip would have resulted in better mpg with both methods.

It proves the software the car uses will maximise your mpg, which ever way you drive. But it can't make you drive better. 

 

 

[YarisHybrid2016]

I drove like a loony yesterday and today, and observed the following:

* getting silly low MPG is hard (I still "only" achieved 52 MPG!)

* Long periods of flat-out acceleration that drain the Battery, cause the car to have high fuel consumption subsequently, for up to 10 minutes while it recharges the HV Battery.

* It was windier and damp today, and this had noticable impact on the fuel consumption during cruise. Instantaneous was noticably lower (at least 15 MPG) at its peak. Where it would attain 85+ it didn't exceed 70 today.

[Anthony Poli]

7 hours ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

I drove like a loony yesterday and today, and observed the following:

* getting silly low MPG is hard (I still "only" achieved 52 MPG!)

* Long periods of flat-out acceleration that drain the battery, cause the car to have high fuel consumption subsequently, for up to 10 minutes while it recharges the HV battery.

* It was windier and damp today, and this had noticable impact on the fuel consumption during cruise. Instantaneous was noticably lower (at least 15 MPG) at its peak. Where it would attain 85+ it didn't exceed 70 today.

What mileage is your Yaris on?

Ours has just passed 14000 and the Auris has just passed 40000. Yet both felt like the 2016 Yaris courtesy car i drove within the last 6 months.

It was on here that I read that the Prius starts getting into its stride at 40000 miles and starts giving its best mpg.

[YarisHybrid2016]

Nearly 16100 miles now.

I'm thinking it is still loosening up. Ask me in another 25000 miles! :)

[bob-the-builder22]

11 hours ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

Nearly 16100 miles now.

I'm thinking it is still loosening up. Ask me in another 25000 miles! :)

What are you averaging now?

[dcweather]

I'm very happy with our overall 58 mpg. The car has only done 7,500 miles in 2 1/2 years so you can imagine how short my wife's average journeys are. It rarely gets fully warmed up. Average journey is probably about 2.5 miles with lots of mini roundabouts and a few junctions so lots of pulling away. Ok it's not some of the heady figures on here but what other non totally electric automatic car would beat that under those conditions including diesels? Plus it is the Icon with camera and reversing sensors, metallic  and it still only cost £14200 so it has been costing £68 per month (30 months) interest free with I think a 4k deposit. We are going to purchase it outirght now for the remaining 8K. Bargain I think ;-)

Dave

[YarisHybrid2016]

On 5/16/2017 at 1:51 PM, bob-the-builder22 said:

What are you averaging now?

Approximately 65 MPG (over a tank), but that does not include motorway driving at 70 MPH. Most journeys are around 50-60 MPH (by choice 53-57 MPH to maximize fuel economy).

More is possible, but I have a heavy right foot at times. Traffic lights, and stop/start in general really hurts fuel economy.

I'm currently experimenting with the best way to climb long hills. 62 MPH is looking promising (legal - it's a dual carriageway).

Staying out of the power band is the biggest thing you can do when faster than 20 MPH (you can go into it a little below that speed without the engine RPM increasingly noticably). Above 20 MPH you need to lift off as the speed builds to keep engine RPM down. This gives a good acceleration without silly fuel usage.

[Anthony Poli]

Another thing to add, from a standing start, set off on the electric and get over 10 mph before you allow the ice to start.

 

Might not seem like much, but it makes a difference.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[YarisHybrid2016]

Funny thing about stationary objects: they theoretically have infinite inertia.

[Mike J.]

The best average mpg I have logged on the screen was a journey of around 60 miles from the centre of Ipswich to the centre of Cambridge. The speed on the A14 was 60mph via cruise control. I got 73mpg.

[Anthony Poli]

On a different thread, another hybrid owner was asking how much petrol the 30Wh on the display was worth. I'm waiting for their reaction after telling them its 3ml, so according to my calculations for approximately 40% of the quoted Battery capacity of my Auris, the total is about 41.24ml worth of petrol. So if my Battery was 20 times larger, I could achieve 0.825 l/100Km or 342mpg just driving on the electric at 40mph.

[Mike J.]

7 minutes ago, Anthony Poli said:

On a different thread, another hybrid owner was asking how much petrol the 30Wh on the display was worth. I'm waiting for their reaction after telling them its 3ml, so according to my calculations for approximately 40% of the quoted battery capacity of my Auris, the total is about 41.24ml worth of petrol. So if my battery was 20 times larger, I could achieve 0.825 l/100Km or 342mpg.

I am not sure about this .... My take is this: the Yaris can do around 1 mile on the Battery, on a flat road. As EV cars can easily do 4 mile/kWh, this points to the Yaris Battery being a 250Wh item (let's say 300Wh for simplicity). 30Wh is thus worth about 1/10 of a mile. My Yaris costs about 10p/mile on average in fuel, so 30Wh = 1p!!

[Anthony Poli]

2 minutes ago, Mike J. said:

I am not sure about this .... My take is this: the Yaris can do around 1 mile on the battery, on a flat road. As EV cars can easily do 4 mile/kWh, this points to the Yaris battery being a 250Wh item (let's say 300Wh for simplicity). 30Wh is thus worth about 1/10 of a mile. My Yaris costs about 10p/mile on average in fuel, so 30Wh = 1p!!

I have based the figures on my Auris 2010, I haven't managed to see how our Yaris 2013 compares on the same route.

The Yaris has a smaller Battery, but the Auris has only 1/2 mile. That's if you drive with the needle close to the middle of the dial, Using the Ice to pick up speed and then use ev to maintain your speed,  even at 40mph you can get more than the stated distance on ev.

[YarisHybrid2016]

As you say, the Battery gives incredible savings for its size. If they made it even 50% larger, and increased the power of the MG2 slightly, I think it would make a lot of difference for little consequence.

I'm still prepared to lose a bit of boot space for a larger Battery.