2007 Prius Rear Pads and Discs Replacement

[Silverb19]

Hi.

 

Does anyone know the proceedure for replacing the rear Pads and Discs on a 2007 Prius T Spirit?  Is it something which can be done at home without the necessity for specialist tools?

I remember getting into all sorts of bother trying to do the front ones and had to take it to a garage to get them to finish them. Also the brake warning light came on on the dashboard and had to be reset. I was just wondering whether the rear brakes were any different/easier?

Thanks.

I have a couple of quotes for the complete job, the cheapest being £123 (inc VAT). Does this seem reasonable?  Needs doing urgently as down to the metal. Leicestershire area.

[Joseph D]

10 hours ago, Silverb19 said:

Is it something which can be done at home without the necessity for specialist tools?

Yes and no, but you need to take precautions to set up before you start. You need a breaker bar, socket spanner, and appropriate sockets.  You should use a torque wrench (which I do not consider a specialised tool) too, as a couple of the bolts have a fairly high torque spec. You will also need to use 2x 8mm bolts to break the discs free. The OEM discs have a couple of 8mm threaded holes for this purpose.  Make sure you have red rubber grease to lubricate the calliper slide pins and also suitable grease to lubricate the anti squeal shims and different grease to lubricate all the touch points of the brake pads in the calliper frame. If you are reusing the old shims, you will need to have some cleaner to clean them up.

10 hours ago, Silverb19 said:

Also the brake warning light came on on the dashboard and had to be reset. I was just wondering whether the rear brakes were any different/easier?

Before you start you need to remove the ABS 1 and ABS 2 relays in the engine compartment fuse box.  If you do not have a way of clearing DTCs, disconnect the 12 V Battery. Easiest way is disconnect at the place where the -ve connects to the body. After doing this, the process is fairly similar to doing the front pads/discs.  When you have finished remember to push out the calliper pistons by pumping the brake pedal until the brakes are firm. Then reinstall the 2 relays and reconnect the 12 V.  If you had to disconnect the 12 V, you will need to reset the auto-up on the driver's window and reset the radio station presets (Take photos of them before disconnecting the 12 V).  There also will be a small relearning period for the fuel trims, so the displayed (but not the actual) MPG on the MDF might be a bit lower. After the next refill it should be back to normal.  You will loose the average consumption (on the MDF) and A/B trip milage as well.

Good luck, hope it goes well.

[Catlover]

So long as the garage who quoted £123 inc vat is going to use quality parts I would say that was a very good quote.

[Silverb19]

Thanks for the replies and particularly Joseph for the method.  Joseph. I don't suppose you happen to know whether the calliper pistons are the spiral screw in type do you?  I'm also wondering why you have to remove the ABS relays if the Battery Is disconnected?

Thanks

 

[Joseph D]

The piston is just a straight in/out type, nothing complicated like a screw in type.

In regards to your other question, if you were to disconnect the Battery, I'd say there is no need to also remove the two relays, but I didn't do this myself and I couldn't get a straight answer from others I asked. They all insisted to do both.  One thing I forgot to mention, whether you remove the relays or disconnect the Battery, you need to wait for 2 minutes for the accumulator pressure to dissipate before you will be able safely swing the calliper up. If you disable the system first then set up to expose the bakes, you should not have a worry.

I did not disconnect the Battery myself, just pulled the two relays as I did not want to have to reset the driver's side window auto up/down, radio presets, loose my fuel trim settings, trip A/B settings or the MDF average consumption/milage figures. I also have a code reader so checking and reseting any related brake system DTCs was not a problem. I did get a pending code, but no lights were on when I was finished. You shouldn't have this problem disconnecting the 12 V battery as there is no power to anything. After I got all set up and ready to start, I  pumped the brake pedal 4 or 5 time to confirm the accumulator would not run before getting started. Remember, before reconnecting the 12 V battery, pump the brake pedal several times until the piston(s) are fully against the new pads to avoid any DTCs.

Let me know if there is anything that doesn't make sense or if you have any other questions.

[Silverb19]

Thanks again Joseph. Just as a matter of interest,  which code scanner have you got if you don't mind me asking? I've recently been considering buying one myself

[Joseph D]

20 hours ago, Silverb19 said:

Thanks again Joseph. Just as a matter of interest,  which code scanner have you got if you don't mind me asking? I've recently been considering buying one myself

I run Techstream on a laptop and use a Mini VCI cable to interface with the car.