Advice on buying an old Rav4 please!

[Meadowmobile]

Hi,

I'm about to get a Rav4, and am looking at 2001 - 2003 petrol models (my budget is about £1,500... could maybe stretch to 2,000). I'm thinking petrol rather than diesel because it seems that servicing costs and buying costs are a bit cheaper- even if I do end up spending a bit more on fuel. Plus I'm terrified I'd end up with a massive DMF repair bill! I could get a newer 4x4 (maybe 06/07 hyundi or something) but I really value the reputation for reliability that Rav4's have, so I'm hoping it makes sense to go for an older model!

But I have a few questions, that may be really stupid, but its my first car (despite being 30) and I've nobody who can come look at the cars with me so I thought here would be a good place to ask!

So far it seems that for that age and my budget I should expect some wear and tear on the car, but have been told to make sure there's a full service history and to try and get a warranty of at least a couple of months on it.

But I'm finding that when I go and look at the cars- it's hard to tell what's a problem that's just cosmetic, (So not to be worried about) and what should set off some alarm bells!

Here's some things in particular:

Wheels- Rims are frequently looking very shoddy, I've been told this is common for old Rav's and I could get them re-conditioned... So, a) does it matter if the rims don't look 100% for anything other than looks? and b) how much is this mythical  wheel treatment?

Dash etc looking a bit worse for wear-  I assume this effects nothing and I should just re-draw on the gear map to the gearstick!

Are there any particular questions I should be asking the dealer? (So far I ask when the MOT is due and if it had any advisories on its last MOT, and then about how many stamps it has in its service book, and if they were done in a Toyota dealer, and how many owners it has had)

And when driving, just to make sure it moves up through the gears okay, and that the clutch feels good (I'm a new driver so I *kind of* understand what this means)

Any advice you could offer would be really appreciated! Even if it's something that you think is so obvious it doesn't need to be said (I probably need it said!)

 

Thanks so much in advance!

 

[FROSTYBALLS]

Provided one knoiws the registration number, one can check the MOT history of a vehicle using:

 https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

This usually includes what the vehicle has failed on in past MOT's plus any advisories, and is a good check for any mileage inconsistencies.

[Grumpy stumpy]

Hi Clare, i've just sold my 2004 petrol Rav and owned it for 5 years, Petrol ones are so reliable, only thing i would say check condition of wheels as they corrode badly, once they have been powdercoated then are ok but about £50 a wheel to do and next if you get a manual one check the 5th gear, take it for a drive and make sure the gear lever doesn't fly out of 5th or vibrate when in 5th normally around 50-60 mph as this is common but once 5th gear assembly is replaced its normally ok but will cost around £250-£400 mark if you can't do it yourself. Other than that superb motors great in the snow good all round.

Phil

[Meadowmobile]

That's really helpful- thanks so much!

I've been thinking about upping my budget a little bit, and maybe going for a Mk3 instead...

A lot of the reviews say that the diesel is the better engine... any thoughts? I thought I remembered reading on here that there were quite often expensive problems with the 06/07 Diesel?

Also, I saw that the boot space increased quite a bit from mk2 to mk3, but then came back down again for the latest. Is this true even when the seats are down or is it something about road position? Have to move quite a lot of stuff, so eeking out an extra bit of boot space would be useful!

 

Thanks,

 

Clare

 

 

[Mike169]

Hi Clare.

About your comment about problems with a certain problem of 2006 to playing safe to 2009 Toyota made a bad batch of diesel engines only. At the time within a specific time and/or mileage Toyota were repairing/replacing the engines FOC and if you had to pay for it you are looking at a £7000 bill. If the engine has been changed it should be ok and the only way to find out is take the reg. no. to a Toyota dealer and they can look it up on their computer system to look at the history of the car. If you find a car you like and it is between these years and either it hasn't had the engine repaired/replaced or even if Toyota can't answer your question then walk away from it no matter how much you like or shiny the car is.

Mike.

[Heidfirst]

43 minutes ago, Mike169 said:

About your comment about problems with a certain problem of 2006 to playing safe to 2009 Toyota made a bad batch of diesel engines only.

3 years of production (2006-2009) is hardly a bad batch ...  

There is a long thread here on the 2AD engine (although the related 1AD also suffered but apparently much less so) & it's issues. 

Iirc there were 2 different contributing problems which were amended separately in production during that period. Its also important to note that only a small proportion (probably less than 5%) developed the head/head gasket issue. The more powerful 2AD-FHV (177 bhp) seems to have a higher rate of this issue than the 150 bhp & of course also has a DPF/DPNR so personally I would tend to  avoid that although I am sure that there are many people very happy with theirs.

[Mike169]

3 years of production (2006-2009) is hardly a bad batch ...  .........as quoted above.

I did not state that every diesel engine made between the dates mentioned were bad but if as quoted 5% or less are the bad ones, but 5% of tens of thousands is still a significant amount so buying one you may be one of the unlucky ones that buys one of these so you are playing with fire since Toyota are no longer repairing/replacing these engines FOC so is it worth taking the chance? I was merely trying to make it spelt out in simple terms to someone who may be unfamiliar to quoting engine types.

Mike169 

[Heidfirst]

1 hour ago, Mike169 said:

I did not state that every diesel engine made between the dates mentioned were bad

it was a (or rather 2) production issue so theoretically they were all potentially vulnerable to a greater or lesser degree but diesel quality & the type & style of driving done is allegedly why it only raises it's head on a fairly small % in practice.

As I said I, for one, would tend to avoid the higher powered version as a chance not worth taking for me. My 2007 2.2 150 bhp Avensis had no problems in my ownership though & afaik is still happily running around going by it's last MOT records. & it didn't put me off buying another 2.2 albeit now outwith the production issue dates.

[Grumpy stumpy]

Petrol are bullet proof ! A good mate of mine Runs an independent Toyota Lexus dealership and has done for over 35 years he's advice to me was buy the petrol , no problems, I had a mk2 petrol and now own a 59 plate mk3 petrol auto, rare but superb !

[Mike169]

Quote

 

I totally agree with you Grumpy but many things you only really learn about when you own one. I have a 150 auto diesel Rav 2012, I do like the way the torque/power comes in and at the time the government were pushing us into diesels, the complete opposite to now. I would recommend people buy automatic gearbox petrol or diesel, the 6 speed gear change is silky smooth.

[Grumpy stumpy]

Agree the auto box is superb, I have a Lexus RX400h which is getting on now 06 plate and the CVT box on that is lovely but the Rav is just as good with less power mind.

[njbrice]

The 6spd Manual in my 2010 is a horrid thing, I'd love an Auto.

 

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

 

[P.J. Denyer]

I realise that this is a bit late, but I have a 2003 petrol and it's a superb car, handles any surface including this years snow with ease. The only problem I've had was a worn out clutch at 95000 miles, probably due to a previous owner insisting on sitting on it rather than using the handbrake, I've seen a couple of reports of this so it's worth checking... It's a big job on the 4x4 versions that most home mechanics won't be equipped realistically to attempt but I got it done for £450 parts and labour it feels like a new car. I'd really recommend this version with no hesitation.