Simple Engine Mods To A Tubby

[Titto]

Right, im planning ahead but i've been thinking...(i know, its rare :P )...

If i get a rev3 tubby then what would be the list of mods you would do that;

a) would be the simplest and not too expensive

B) would make a difference to the power output

Rules are that the mods have to be purely engine based, not to do with exhausts, decat etc...

answers on a postcard please!

Edited June 21, 2004 by Titto

[Jimlad]

Right, im planning ahead but i've been thinking...(i know, its rare :P )...

If i get a rev3 tubby then what would be the list of mods you would do that;

a) would be the simplest and not too expensive

B) would make a difference to the power output

Rules are that the mods have to be purely engine based, not to do with exhausts, decat etc...

answers on a postcard please!

Induction Kit

Decat/Exhaust

FCD & up the boost

Hey !! That bit about no exhaust wasn't there when I posted !

Why no exhaust decat ????

[Titto]

One thing at a time!!!

Just want to see what can be donw to the engine BEFORE doing other stuff!!!

[Jesus]

Nah... you HAVE to free up the gas flow first with exhaust, decat and induction. MUST MUST MUST!!! Most noticable difference from doing that! :D

[Jimlad]

Yip... I agree.

Before you do anything else you should do what I posted.

[Rikki]

You'd be surprised how little effect an induction kit has on a turbo car.

[DeusMR2]

but it sounds so damn good, well the apexi does anyway :P makes the turbo whistle sound so much louder and it just feels more responsive, butt dynowise.

[TheNissanMan]

has a better effect on the responsiveness over the performance but when modding the engine allowing it to breathe improves the overall mods you decide to do !

[veilside_mr2]

if ur really set against the exhaust, and u really are on a budget, a simple bleed valve would help, just up the boost.But its not exactly safe, it can spike.

[KiwiMR2]

Intake on a Type III has less effect than on a Type II as Toyota made some better changes on the type III OEM setup....much less restrictive and much better flowing......IMO your better off putting an aftermarket panel filter in the OEM setup than you are just dumping a pod in the engine bay to suck hot air....idealy you need a cold air box or at the least a GOOD heat shield to make it worthwhile.

As the guys mention exhaust really is a must....no matter what you do your always gonna be at a limit because of what the stock exhaust can flow. Aftermarket Intercooler would be a benefit...Greddy or Spearco, oh and then WI, and then an ems I guess.

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[Rikki]

Intake on a Type III has less effect than on a Type II as Toyota made some better changes on the type III OEM setup....much less restrictive and much better flowing......IMO your better off putting an aftermarket panel filter in the OEM setup than you are just dumping a pod in the engine bay to suck hot air....idealy you need a cold air box or at the least a GOOD heat shield to make it worthwhile.

As the guys mention exhaust really is a must....no matter what you do your always gonna be at a limit because of what the stock exhaust can flow. Aftermarket Intercooler would be a benefit...Greddy or Spearco, oh and then WI, and then an ems I guess.

Cheers

KiwiMR2

Had my std car RR'd at Datek and is produced 270bhp, Unichipped and it was pushing past 300bhp no problems at all.

Thats with a Toyota paper filter.

Personally I'd rather make the turbo and cylinder walls last longer by not using a cone or even uprated panel filter which will let minute particles through and all the heat soak problems that are known too.

Just what I decided to do and with the dyno chart that agrees with me I'm happy. My reasoning for saying induction kits do f'k all on turbo cars is based on the venturi effect of a normally aspirated engine where the intake cycle draws air into the chamber compared to a turbo or supercharged varient where the air is pushed in.

R.

[KiwiMR2]

Had my std car RR'd at Datek and is produced 270bhp, Unichipped and it was pushing past 300bhp no problems at all.

Thats with a Toyota paper filter.

Nice figures!! would have been higher with a better intake :P

Personally I'd rather make the turbo and cylinder walls last longer by not using a cone or even uprated panel filter which will let minute particles through and all the heat soak problems that are known too.

The heat soak problems can be overcome with a bit of sensible modding however your 2nd point is true.....finding a balance between shortening the life of the engine and gaining the most sort after extra power, you could make your engine in general last longer if you don't thrash it too ;)

Just what I decided to do and with the dyno chart that agrees with me I'm happy.

Which at the end of the day is all that matters :D I get a fair bit of stick from mates/randoms about my STOCK rims.....16's this and 17's that but I like the quality of the ride with the stockers....and Im the one riding in the car everyday!!

My reasoning for saying induction kits do f'k all on turbo cars is based on the venturi effect of a normally aspirated engine where the intake cycle draws air into the chamber compared to a turbo or supercharged varient where the air is pushed in.

Possibly.....I personally haven't done any testing but Im sure others have dyno'd with the oem setup and a then a pod?? I mean 99% of people who mod do this first.....mind you they often just put them into suck hot air but still, those that do it in such away as it is getting cold air etc I would have thougt do it because the get some form of positive increase in performance??

All good points and something I might try and look into via the net :)

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[Titto]

so, basically if you bang in a unichip on a standard turbo mr2, then you will still get noticable performance gains?

[Rikki]

so, basically if you bang in a unichip on a standard turbo mr2, then you will still get noticable performance gains?

Dont know, I know this though. I RR'd my car a week after I boguth it, completely standard but just serviced.

270bhp fly / 229bhp RWHP

Custom 4" to 3" downpipe, decat and silencer/backbox free stainless 3" system = 272bhp fly / 230bhp RWHP

Unichip fitted = 300-310bhp (approx as couldnt complete session due to bolt problem on turbo).

---

So it is my reckoning that the engines are dynamite as standard, might "sound" like they work better with custom exhaust and decats but the Denso ECU is expecting a certain amount of restriction on the inlet / exhaust gases so even if you make it easier for the car to breathe it doesnt know to so you get roughly the same power.

Chipping the car "opens its eyes" to the fact it can actually flow more gas and therefore suddenly leaps up by 30bhp.

If you see what I mean.

R.