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Broken Key Fob


DJMACK
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Hi...new to Forum, help please! My daughter accidentally broke the plastic key fob in the ignition. I have a 54 plate Rav 4. By holding together the broken plastic we managed to start the car (didn't realise until now that the fob plays a part in turning off the immobiliser, the metal key on its own won't start the car). Got home 300 miles from Cornwall (phew) but the speedo and odometer don't work and a couple of warning lights are now coming on, so am concerned that more damage has been done (not sure how though). Don't want to just buy a new fob, but don't want a garage to exaggerate the issue...any thoughts out there?

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Hi Duncan and welcome. the key is meant to be able to split to change the Battery in there Is that still there?

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Hi! Yes the "gubbins" in the key "sandwich" are still there, and the buttons operate fine to lock/un-lock the car when pressed...

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I wonder if this may help, quite a while age it was suggested somewhere that they solved some similar problem by standing by the car and pressing both buttons together to reconnect car to key. also try http://.programyourkeys.com/toyota.html

Del 

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On the face of it, it is unlikely that broken plastic has caused the warning lights, etc, if the car runs ok.  I suggest you plug an OBD tester into the OBD socket and read + make a note of the fault codes.  Then reset the codes and see if they return.  If they do, post the codes here.

The immobiliser is not a function of the plastic, but of the electronic module inside the key.  You can get a substitute keyfob, get the blade cut to match the existing one, and put the module into it, and it should work ok.  Any car locksmith should be able to handle that.

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Just to add, you can get a replacement fob here, but some locksmiths will only cut the blade if they provide the fob.

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Thanks for the advice so far...will try what's been suggested and see how it goes....meantime, all further suggestions gratefully accepted...

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Wonder if it is worth trying Timpsons  I have no connection to the company

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If it's one where the remote and immobilizer transponder are together in the button-block, just get a replacement shell+blank blade from eBay as mentioned above, get it cut and de-burred at a locksmith's (Don't need an auto-locksmith; Any locksmith with a blade copier grinder thing will do) and the pop the button-block in its new case and reassemble it.

If it's one of those ones where there is a separate transponder chip in the key, that's a bit more ubiky as you need to either get it cloned or carefully cut it out and stick it in the new key case!

An autolocksmith can probably supply AND cut one, but you need to be careful with them as less reputable ones just cut the key onto a non-standard blank and clone the transponder and give that to you; It'll start the car but has no buttons to control the central locking!

If you have the button block you only need a key cut to a compatible blank case. One thing if you do get it on eBay is to double-check the blade style matches yours; For instance, there are 3 different but very similar-looking ones for a Mk1 Yaris!

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Thanks for all the advice everyone. Warning lights were cured by plugging in diagnostics and re-setting. I now have 2 brand new keys and they are the type where the blade folds in to the fob on a hinge so are much more robust...worth noting that old style Rav Keys are compatible with new style fobs. Cost was £70 each which is not cheap but I consider it to be a worthwhile up-grade. Local garage organised it all, not cheap, £215 in total but happy to pay for a job well done.

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