'09 Auris 1.33 - rough idle

[QuantumFireball]

My brother got a '09 Auris 1.33 petrol a few months ago, and I've noticed recently it seems quite rough when idling. I don't know if it was like this when he got it or not, but he doesn't know much about cars so didn't notice anything unusual.

I can feel notable vibration in the cabin when idling, even after the engine has got up to temperature. Seems to be idling around 600 RPM (after warmup), which I guess is normal? Kinda feels like a misfire, but not that rough. Could one of the coil packs be on the way out? I can see someone has marked numbers on the tops of the coil packs, so possibly someone has investigated it in the past.

No faults logged, and no engine management light. Nothing else obviously wrong.

I noticed the oil was slightly overfilled, but I pumped out about 100 ml and it's within the min and max marks on the dipstick now (oil was new when he bought it). No idea if the proper 0W20 was used, I suspect not.

[furtula]

Easiest fix for rough idle would be to disconnect the Battery, wait for a few minutes, reconnect, and let it idle for 5-10 minutes for the ECU to remap everything.

If someone has worked on the engine it's possible they disconnected the Battery, and upon reconnecting just started driving straight away, which might have caused the issue.

[Mooly]

I would also suggest a Battery disconnect as a first step, something I have had to do around 5 times during my time with the 1.33 (although I never had poor idle quality). 600RPM sounds to low, mine when hot would be nearer 800-850 rising to 1000 when the AC compressor engages or when heavy electrical loading occurs. 

[QuantumFireball]

I'll try disconnecting the Battery, thanks. It needed a jump start a few months ago (lights were left on), but was probably driven immediately after that.

I think it was idling around 600-650 RPM when warm, and closer to 900 when cold. What would be the cause of it idling too low? I didn't see any throttle cable in there so assume it's all electronic?

[Mooly]

Yes, idle control and throttle is all 'fly by wire' electronically controlled. There is no point wondering what's going on at this stage until you try a reset. If it is still not right after that then I suspect you will need professional advice and help rather than a simple diy fix... but you must try the reset first.

As to the reset... best done on a cold engine because then it can relearn from scratch when started. Disconnect only the Battery negative cable and tuck it out of the way for a few minutes so that it can not accidently brush or touch the Battery terminal. When you reconnect do it smartly and decisively. Push the terminal hard down onto the post and while holding it down tighten the clamp. Do not overtighten.   

 

[TAuris]

Try cleaning the MAF (mass air flow) sensor with IPA (iso propyl alcohol) solvent or any oil/residue free contact cleaner.  Also check the air filter and replace if dirty and check the spark plugs as well. I would also remove both cam solenoids and clean with brake cleaner (the car will be really rough, but you have to allow it to idle for 5-10 mins and take it for a spin).

I found Wynns Petrol EGR3 cleaner effective with a bottle of Wynns Petrol Power 3 in the tank.

[QuantumFireball]

Cleaning the MAF seems like a fairly easy job, so I'll try that, thanks! I have some 3M contact cleaner and IPA. I already checked the air filter and it seemed OK, just slightly grey on the corners.

I don't have the right tools to get to the spark plugs (former diesel owner!), but they're probably next on the list if none of this sorts it out.

I put some Dipetane in the tank which is supposed to help with carbon deposits and all that, but would it be worth cleaning the EGR valve manually? Is it a difficult job with this engine?

[TAuris]

1 hour ago, QuantumFireball said:

Cleaning the MAF seems like a fairly easy job, so I'll try that, thanks! I have some 3M contact cleaner and IPA. I already checked the air filter and it seemed OK, just slightly grey on the corners.

I don't have the right tools to get to the spark plugs (former diesel owner!), but they're probably next on the list if none of this sorts it out.

I put some Dipetane in the tank which is supposed to help with carbon deposits and all that, but would it be worth cleaning the EGR valve manually? Is it a difficult job with this engine?

You need a14mm deep slim socket for the the spark plugs. I've looked at the EGR valve, unfortunately not possible without removing the intake manifold. 

However, you could try removing the pipe, motor and manually cleaning the EGR valve by pushing the plunger with brake cleaner in entry port (Pic. #2). I haven't done this.

      

   

 

                     

[QuantumFireball]

So I disconnected the Battery and tried to clean the MAF sensor with some contact cleaner. Once I put everything back together I started it again, left it idling (pressed "Eco Off" button) and it seemed OK for a few minutes, then the engine speed just slowly started creeping down... to about 200 RPM! Needless to say it did not sound good! So at this point I tried taking it for a drive, and it was very difficult trying to stop it from stalling when idling for the first few minutes. It seemed fine when moving, and after about 20 minutes of driving on main roads (100-120 km/h) it was back to its previous state of idling around 650 RPM.

If I put it under load when idling, e.g. lights, aircon, etc. it will go up to around 800-900 RPM briefly but then fall back down to around 600.

It didn't throw any errors during this process, even when it was idling very poorly (there was some smoke too).

I'm finding it hard to find what the idle speed should be, but I did find this: http://atrc.net.pk/resources/road_standards/Emissions_17th_Edition.pdf

It says 600-700 RPM is "normal idle speed" for a NRE150 Auris (1NR-FE engine) - so maybe this is the correct speed? Can anyone else confirm, preferably from an OBD-II scanner in case the tachometer is not very accurate? If so, maybe it is plugs or something else that is making it idle poorly?

I understand these engines do make a notable tapping noise when idling, and my Prius does too (something about Dual VVT-i?), but in this Auris there is an obvious vibration that you can feel when in the front seats, which does not feel normal to me (maybe for a diesel!).

[olsi20]

Toyota Auris 1.6 1ZRFAE Valvematic

Same problem, low idle 600to650, tried MAF cleaning and throttle. Also Battery change also but the problem continues. 

I have changed my Battery (Not OEM but same Amp). No fault codes

Any idea?

[TonyHSD]

4 hours ago, olsi20 said:

Toyota Auris 1.6 1ZRFAE Valvematic

Same problem, low idle 600to650, tried MAF cleaning and throttle. Also battery change also but the problem continues. 

I have changed my battery (Not OEM but same Amp). No fault codes

Any idea?

HI, if the car has an egr system, best to inspect and clean thoroughly all components plus map sensor, throttle body. Before work commenced you will need to disconnect the negative terminal of the Battery, after you finish, connect the Battery and start the car without using any electric accessories like heating, lights, radio, start the engine and leave it idle for 15 min. If nothing helps, you can try some quality injector cleaner or catalytic converter and lambda sensor cleaner, I had recently some problems in higher rpm and these two additives has fixed the issue for me, plus change the garage for petrol. If you decide to use any additives you will need also to drive the car for 30-60 min motorway journeys so engine can reach working temp and higher and can burn the carbon builds up that eventually hs caused your issues. 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184482627053

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143999428047

links for example only, you can check other places to buy, also ultra important to follow exactly instructions to mix correct quantities, these additives works wonders. , no guarantee though they will help in your case, however they did helped me in many cases. Don’t mix together additives too, use one bottle and after some time then use another or repeat with same stuff  👍 

[Dean808]

On 4/28/2021 at 8:37 AM, olsi20 said:

Toyota Auris 1.6 1ZRFAE Valvematic

Same problem, low idle 600to650, tried MAF cleaning and throttle. Also battery change also but the problem continues. 

I have changed my battery (Not OEM but same Amp). No fault codes

Any idea?

Did you ever fix the problem same issues with t27 1.8 valvematic Toyota can not seem to find problem showing no faults 

[olsi20]

On 9/28/2021 at 1:18 AM, Dean808 said:

Did you ever fix the problem same issues with t27 1.8 valvematic Toyota can not seem to find problem showing no faults 

No, still same at least it does not get worse