Mk1 Auris 1.6 air conditioning compressor problem, anyone else had similar?

[hcanning]

For the past few weeks I've noticed that the AC in my other half's Auris isn't getting cold. It was apparent that it wasn't working when it wasn't keeping the windows adequately demisted when driving in the rain.

My first port of call was to get it regassed - I figured over the past 4 years it may have just leaked out enough to stop it functioning. So this morning it was taken to a garage and done. They said that after it was done, it appeared to work fine (which was clearly a lie) and passed the vacuum test so no apparent holes in the system. According to the print-out I've got, 220g of refrigerant was recovered and 440g was put back in. Reasonable to assume that it won't have been working at first, when only 50% full?

But it still doesn't blow cold. It doesn't make my hands feel almost painfully chilly like most other AC systems do. It just feels as warm as the atmospheric temperature.

After some investigation yesterday, I've come to the conclusion that the compressor isn't kicking in, despite there being adequate voltage to its electrical contact.  With the engine running, 13-14v is measured at the terminal, which disappears if you disconnect the pressure switch or deactivate it from the climate panel.

Has anyone else had similar problems? I'm betting the clutch solenoid, if that is the problem, is built in to the compressor and that no garage is going to want to replace it rather than the whole unit, and it's going to cost hundreds :(

The car is booked back in to the same garage next Saturday so they can have another look, but I thought I'd ask for some advice here in the mean time.

 

Thanks all!
 

[Konrad C]

I am not an expert, but I notice that when I had my old Avensis regassed, it didn't feel as cold as I expected at first. It demisted the windows okay, so I knew the system was working. Then on very warm and hot days, it was like being in a fridge. I do use the system all year round. What I am saying, is that it may need running to circulate the refrigerant properly. Has the pollen filter been changed and the vent system cleaned? 
Since you have stated that the compressor may not be kicking in, an auto electrician may be needed to confirm why.    

I have the instructions for Toyota diagnostic checks that works on most Toyotas - I tried it on my current 2009 Avensis - Toyota heater Self diagnostics.doc

Here is a video demonstrating the self diagnostic :-

  

and the link to codes - https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/824704_cdcd27ebf48f43afa5c2fa862e7cce74.pdf    

I hope this helps.

[hcanning]

Thank you.  I am 100% sure it's not operating.  There's no cold air, and that's after leaving it for a while.  It gets left on with the 'auto' mode all year round.

I did try the diagnostic mode on the CC panel and it just showed "00", even when I disconnected the pressure sensor or the compressor.  I'm not sure what I have to do to make it notice an error 

I have resigned myself to the fact that the compressor is at fault.  I'm just hoping it's not going to cost an absolute fortune.

[mrpj]

Would a 2007 car have a clutch operated compressor or a swashplate compressor which seems to be the preferred option with some car makers, including Toyota?

Whether the pulley is turning continuously or not could possible indicate which type. Is the compressor belt driven pulley turning? If not it could mean the clutch has failed. If it is then either the clutch is engaged and working or it is a swashplate type.

Just a thought.

[hcanning]

1 hour ago, mrpj said:

Would a 2007 car have a clutch operated compressor or a swashplate compressor which seems to be the preferred option with some car makers, including Toyota?

Whether the pulley is turning continuously or not could possible indicate which type. Is the compressor belt driven pulley turning? If not it could mean the clutch has failed. If it is then either the clutch is engaged and working or it is a swashplate type.

Just a thought.

No, the pulley does not turn.  Apologies, I should have stated that in my opening post!

 

Honestly I've been trying to work out myself whether it is clutch-operated.  It has an outer plate which I presume should spin, but then it has what looks like an internal solenoid valve which the two-pin electrical connector connects to.  With the AC active, there is battery/alternator voltage at this connector, without the AC active nothing.  

[mrpj]

Thanks, it looks as though the clutch pull on has possibly failed? It could well mean an auto electrician, as Konrad suggested, to diagnose before either loading up the parts cannon or opening the window(s).

[Mooly]

It does sound a little as though the clutch assembly is faulty. Normally you can hear the clutch/compressor cycle on and off when the engine is running, on for say 6 seconds and off for say 20 seconds or more. Also the pipe work to the compressor should be cold (but not genuinely icy) and normally covered in condensation when its operating.

A variable displacement compressor would still use a clutch as far as I'm aware, particularly for vehicle AC where there are often conditions where it is essential it doesn't run, such as low charge or even just sub zero temperatures.

If you have a multimeter then you could do a resistance check across the terminals of the clutch (with the connector first removed to isolate it from the vehicle electrics).