Consider to buy 2010 avensis gasoline 147hp. Any known issues?

[Ray87]

Hi. 

We consider to buy our first Toyota. 

Around 2010, automatic and 147hp gasoline engine. 

Is it any weakness with the engine? 

I have heard about they could use mutch oil, but that was maby only on the older modell up to 2008? 

We can consider a diesel also. 

Any other things that i should know when i take a look at used Toyota from around 2010?

Thanks for help. 

[alan333]

The 1.8 valvematic petrol engine fitted to the 2009 onwards model (the T27) isn't known to use oil and doesn't seem to have any known problems. Some of the 1.8vvti engines fitted to the previous model (the T25) were known to use oil up to around 2006 when the engine was modified.

The valvematic engine is much more powerful than the old one, runs sweetly and quietly, is pretty good on fuel and is well suited to the car size.  It's not got much low down torque but it's nippy enough and it really sits up and takes notice if you want it to by getting the revs up above about 3.5k.

The auto gearbox is a CVT and is seamlessly sweet to drive but is revvy on hills, especially at higher speeds.  I haven't heard of any problems with the box but have read of at least one person saying the box was sweeter after changing the 'lifetime sealed' oil.

The only automatic diesel is the 2.2 and is known for cylinder head problems in everything it's fitted to, including Lexus.  Toyota even extended the warranty to 7 years to cover the problem but only if the car had Toyota service history etc.  I'm sure there are some good ones around but I personally wouldn't own one out of warranty.

Known problems on the car itself are front doors cracking around the hinges and costly EPB problems, although the latter seem to be less common on later models.

[Heidfirst]

Hi Ray, welcome to TOC ☺️

That was the older VVTi engine (upto 2006)  & not Valvematic.

The CVT is very reliable but is expensive to fix if you should be a very rare individual that experiences a problem.

Similarly EPB actuator failure is expensive to fix but the fear of failure seems to much exceed actual failures ...

Possible cracks in front doors near the check straps.

The 2.2 diesel auto uses a 6-speed torque converter - again very, very few reports of issues. A 2010 should have had any cylinder head/head-gasket issues resolved in production by then (& again only a very small % of earlier production actually developed them - I had a 2007 & a 2012 with no problems). However, the auto only came with a version of the engine that came with a DPF (to compensate for the auto to keep emissions down ) so is thirsty (probably thirstier than the Valvematic) & of course when the DPF fills up & needs replacement that will be expensive. IPersonally,  I don't believe in running any manufacturer's modern, DPF-equipped turbodiesel out of warranty.

[m456an]

My car does not suffer from engine oil burning, but I would spend more and get the valvematic as it is a better engine than the vvti

Sometimes it's does struggle up steep hills and I have to use full throttle. Though my 1.8 zetec never had this problem the vvti may struggle up hilly roads in Wales. valvematic is the way to go.

[Konrad C]

The front doors can suffer cracks to the paint/metal at the door strap bolts. I put in larger washers to spread the load. I have not checked lately to see if the cracks have got worse.

Engine wise, the Valvematic is fine in most situations, but you will need to keep the engine revs at 3000 rpm to accelerate up hills. I get away with 2500 rpm, but if loaded you need more revs. If below 2000 rpm up a steep hill, you will need to change down! The auto will obviously match the revs to the situation.
On the motorway, I have got away with using 6th gear going up the M23/A23 motorway, even though the downshift light comes on. Remember the engine torque is 133 lb/ft (180 Nm) at 4000 rpm.

My car has not needed a top up since last oil change (July 2017), and I use the preferred grade 0w-20 engine oil. I also changed the spark plugs and use genuine Denso SC20HR11 Iridium. These can be overlooked due to access and smaller 14mm spark plug socket, and long reach. I bought my socket from Machine Mart - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-4376-8mm-38-drive-thin-wall-spark-plug/?da=1&TC=GS-040824376&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0a7YBRDnARIsAJgsF3PblGOBLpdwhE59MR4QITcnEEjtT8kVUW4znuX4d4VpzwONk8WjYaQaAgzqEALw_wcB

Try and get the Nav version as the reversing camera will be useful. TR models sometimes come with the 'Nav' option, instead of the standard CD/radio.  Here is the brochure for the 2009 model - Avensis-June-2009_tcm-3060-363527.pdf

Any general maintenance is quite straightforward and can be quite cheap. Being auto, the brakes will work harder so good quality disc and pads is a must!
I chose the Tourer model because it is a bit more flexible over the saloon.  

The auto is the only aspect of the car I cannot comment too much on, owning the manual version. I did drive a 2 litre Valvematic Rav4 auto, and it was laid back - kept the revs down unless really using a lot of throttle. Being as it is so close to the Avensis, driving experience should be similar.   

[Ray87]

Thanks alot for the advice. 

I looked at one avensis 2009 today, it had all services but from 75000km until 113000km it missed a service, and it have runned 37000km on the same oil. That does not sounds good. 

 

Great news that the 1.8L gasoline engine is a solid motor. What about 1.6 gasoline? And the diesel issues, can that be a issue with every diesel motor on avensis 09-14 models or is it a model that have the same quality as the gasoline motor? 

 

Very happy for the help people, i dont know anything about this. And it's many engines to choose. 

The door *issue* was on this car too. Little crack noise. But thats ok for me 🙂

All i want is a Toyota with a quality motor 🙂 and that it looks good without to mutch scratches. 

[Heidfirst]

2 hours ago, Ray87 said:

Great news that the 1.8L gasoline engine is a solid motor. What about 1.6 gasoline? And the diesel issues, can that be a issue with every diesel motor on avensis 09-14 models or is it a model that have the same quality as the gasoline motor? 

This forum is predominantly UK-based & we don't get the 1.6 petrol (or the 2.0l petrol). Based on experience of the 1.8 I suspect that the 1.6l may be a bit underpowered.

[Ray87]

Yes i see. To little engine for a big car. Lets forget the 1.6 petrol. 

I also found a 2012 diesel d-4d 2.0L 124hp avensis. Did some procent have issues with the d-4d diesel engine too? 

 

I want the petrol 1.8 with automatic gear, but it not many to choose from in my location (Norway) 

 

[alan333]

12 hours ago, Ray87 said:

Yes i see. To little engine for a big car. Lets forget the 1.6 petrol. 

I also found a 2012 diesel d-4d 2.0L 124hp avensis. Did some procent have issues with the d-4d diesel engine too? 

 

I want the petrol 1.8 with automatic gear, but it not many to choose from in my location (Norway) 

 

The 2.0 diesel doesn't seem to have too many problems but, generally speaking, diesels have lots of expensive things to go wrong where the petrols don't.

A few years ago I 'settled' for a 2009 2.0 diesel manual when I actually wanted a 1.8 petrol auto.  I ended up only owning it for 7 months before buying the car I should have bought in the first instance (the 1.8 auto in my profile).  Personally, I'd say if it's a petrol auto you want... then look around more or wait a bit for one to be available.

[alan333]

14 hours ago, Ray87 said:

The door *issue* was on this car too. Little crack noise.

It's not a noise, it's the actual metal of the door where the hinge attaches which cracks/splits.

[Ray87]

I see, Thanks for the info. Then a 2.0 diesel could be a good engine too. I know the particle filter and the turbo is extra parts. Found one that only had runned 44000km.it stand between d-4d 44000km or a petrol 1.8 71000km.

 We looked at the petrol avensis today 2012 Model. It had little rust on the back door/baggage hatch. Is that normal to find some rust at all on a 2012? Also a very very little rust stripe in one of the rear fender, this was very small. But the back door rust was maby 8cm long on the inside and slightly visible on the outside.. 

Im. Very unsure if i want to buy it because of the rust.. We had bought this car if it wasnt for that i found little rust.. We are going to sleep on it for the night What we do. Anyone here with Toyota rust experience? 

[Berengaria]

There should be no visible rust to the outside body panels on a 2012 Avensis, even in a country like Norway that has a climate where lots of road salt is used in winter (as now happens in the UK!).

Rust on a 2012 car suggests it has been abused, or badly repaired following accident damage. Avoid it.

[Heidfirst]

I had a 2012 Tourer - traded it in last October for current with no rust evident/visible at that time. Car kept in street not garaged so exposed in all weathers.

[Ray87]

Hello again. The diesel 2.0 have automatic gear, so if this engine is solid without any piston gasket issues im consider to buy it if i dont find rust. 

 

The petrol car had little rust yes, i was little surpriced when i found it. 

Here we have salt, and winter last for around 6 month. I have heard about vw passat could also have litte rust after 6 years, Just slightly but a start. They cant have been washed often during the winter.

Im very happy for advice. Then i must consider to leave the petrol car because it had little rust. The dealer offer to send it away for repaint the back door, but im sceptic anyway and im affraid it Will show up more rust on other body parts...

The only one left to check out tomorrow is that 2.0 diesel with 44000km for sale on a Toyota store. It's a 2012 Model with automatic and d-4-d 2.0 126hp. 

If i could kust know if that engine is solid enough to not be conserned about oil use, then i would not care so mutch about it is a diesel, since it also have automatic. Offcourse i want the petrol most but as long as i dont get a problem engine it have nothing to say for me what type of engine it have. What i want is a Nice car that have been treated good, with automatic and no engine issues before it get many years older. 

🙂

[Ray87]

I was wrong you cant get automatic and 2.0 diesel. We are definitly buying a petrol 1.8 with automatic. It's many here with rust already because of the winter salt. I have looked at least 5 now and someone have more rust on the back door then others, but everyone have littlebit even a 2013 Model i took a look at. Its ok Just going to fix it home and when it get worse after some years i send it to respray. The rest of the body have been rust free. 

[Ray87]

Now we finaly found a good example of a 2012 executive 1.8 petrol with automatic runned 105000km.

It's ready mid next week and they take a oil service on it. 

I have two questions about this car. 

It have runned 14000km on the same oil. And i would say it was maby 25-30% remain on the oil level pin. Is that normal oil use on this motor?

Should we change the oil on the automatic gear? 

[Ray87]

We got the car now and its amazing. Still wonder if you guys fill oil on it between the services. It remain maby 25% oil on the oil meter pin. 

Everyone here say you should never change oil on the automatic gearbox. Is that realy true? 

 

[Konrad C]

19 hours ago, Ray87 said:

We got the car now and its amazing. Still wonder if you guys fill oil on it between the services. It remain maby 25% oil on the oil meter pin. 

Everyone here say you should never change oil on the automatic gearbox. Is that realy true? 

 

I can definitely say that my 2009 valvematic has not need to be topped up since it's last oil change back in July 2017. I change the oil myself using preferred 0W-20 grade, as stated in the owner's manual. 

Here are couple of my posts on services the car: 

I have changed most of the 'consumables' on my car, and the only bulb I have replaced is the cigar lighter illumination. 

The most recent item I have had done is regas the air-con. 

Enjoy your car. 
 

 

[Ray87]

Thank you 🙂

How long do you run before the oil change? 

The manual says that the car can use 1 litre oil pr 1000km. But thats a lot. 

If the oil level pin is 1.5 litre then it have maby used 1.1 litre oil the last 14000km if the owner havent filled any oil since last service. Is that normal use of oil? I thought it maby not used oil at all. But i guess its maby normal also 🙂

[alan333]

Mine never used any engine oil in the 2.5 years I owned it.

[furtula]

Any petrol car uses oil, and it's normal. In my cars i use around 1 liter per 10k km to top up.

Just buy an extra liter, and keep it around to top up occasionally.

[Ray87]

Yes thats good to hear. 

1 litre over 10000km dont sounds bad at all. I will check the oil from time to another, and if it use not more then that i know its ok 🙂

[Konrad C]

12 hours ago, Ray87 said:

Thank you 🙂

How long do you run before the oil change? 

The manual says that the car can use 1 litre oil pr 1000km. But thats a lot. 

If the oil level pin is 1.5 litre then it have maby used 1.1 litre oil the last 14000km if the owner havent filled any oil since last service. Is that normal use of oil? I thought it maby not used oil at all. But i guess its maby normal also 🙂

I change the oil on my valvematic every year (July). I do an average of 9,000 miles (sometimes less). That is 14,400 KM. Toyota recommend every 10,000 miles (160,000 KM), so I change the oil well within the recommended period. 
Ignore the oil usage. That is to Toyota's guideline in the very worst case scenario. As I said before, I have not needed to top up between oil changes. So long as you use the correct (preferred) oil, there should be no issue. 
It is good that you ask on this forum, as you will get some user answers. Toyota 1.8 1ZZ engine had the oil burning issue, for the first 5 years of its life. Toyota rectified this mid 2005, so every Mk2 T25 (facelift) Avensis built since, has been trouble free. Also note that not every early 1ZZ had oil burning issue, and some had replacement engines. The Mk3 T27, for those who don't know, has a totally different engine. The problem is some people associate the old engine - mud sticks as they say. The manual statement on oil consumption doe not help.  

I have to say, that apart from the slight lack of torque in some driving situations, the 1.8 2ZR-FAE Valvematic is generally a good engine. I still liked my old 7A-FE 1.8 leanburn engine, that was mostly reliable, but age, cost and emission laws are catching up. 

Now if a car has not been serviced in good time or distance, plus the car has been abused, wear and tear will set in earlier. When buying secondhand some service history can help, but only if serviced properly, like in my posts shown earlier.   

[Ray87]

Thanks for the information. Then im happy to own a facelift, but like you said it could only be a very low number with that issue from 2005-2010, not every single car. 

What about the gear oil on the automatic? I know earlier mercedes and bmw said they never should change the oil on the gearbox, but after a while the changed it so you needed to change oil after all, so i dont trust that you never should change oil on the automatic gear. What do you think about that? 

Could it be less metal gear inside this gearbox since it is stepless? 

That could be the only explenation for never change the oil, in my opinion every oil gets dirty and could need to be replaced. 

[m456an]

Fully synthetic gearbox oil was over estimated, I could smell it burning, though my Ford Focus was a sealed for life one, I had to use a syringe to take a litre out, and put the new oil in with a syringe.

 

But car manufacturers have learnt their lesson.