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Wheel nuts replacement


forge
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I've got a lot of rust on every single one of them. Does anyone know where I can get them replaced as I'm looking on eBay but have no clue as to what what would fit. Thanks 

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I replace wheel nuts/bolts on nearly every car I buy,  because I haven't liked locking wheel nuts/bolts since one sheared off the special adaptor leaving me unable to take off the wheel. I just buy a new set from eBay. Another reason for not liking locking wheel nuts/bolts is that I have no control as to how the wheel nuts/bolts special tool is treated whilst the car is being serviced, IE they might be using an impact gun and also, if one forgets to find the special tool for the service people , they sometimes have to leave part of the service undone thereby causing me to waste my own time. 

 I have found that sometimes the quality of plating on replacement nuts/ bolts isn't quite as good as originals but I balance this against peace of mind. Some cars use  nuts  on wheel studs and some cars use bolts. I always apply a light smear of copper slip to threads and tapers in order to prevent the other potential issue which is sheared off studs or bolts.

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I use coppaslip on the threads but not the tapers, that's where the nut holds onto the wheel, I don't want that to slip. I've never used a torque wrench yet on a wheel nut and never had one come loose in 45 years of motoring.

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1 hour ago, Catlover said:

Hi Catlover, I heard that too but as an engineer, I questioned it. When the wheel and nut are brand new and freshly machined with lovely smooth surfaces, the coefficient of friction between the two surfaces will be lower. After a while, when the nut and the wheel have got dirty and corroded that coefficient of friction will be increased. This eventually leads to studs shearing off since the force required to undo the nuts will be greater than the force which was originally required to do them up since corrosion between the parts has developed. So what if I stop the corrosion between the parts from developing? Then the force required to undo the parts should be far closer to the force required to do them up and the studs do not shear off because they are working within their design parameters. Try it!  Clean up a nut, taper and a stud and copper slip them, torque them up and then do the same with another stud, taper and nut clean them up  but dont copper slip them. Run them all through the winter , in the spring time compare the torque required to undo them both.

The reasoning behind my questioning the idea of having to increase the torque lies in experience with morse tapers on drill bits in machine shops. The morse taper is used to hold and drive drills in machine tools, they mostly operate in extremely oily environments and yet  only ever slip when the taper is very severely damaged. As the taper engages , it displaces anything which would impede contact with its mating socket. The taper on the wheel nut and the wheel does not self grip like a morse taper does but the use of torque on the nut to displace any lubricant whilst at the same time building building a water and grit tight seal where the taper isn't engaged. In the case of the wheel application, the taper is there to assist with centralising the stud and nut within the hole in the wheel but the displacement of lubricant is still a characteristic.

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Best get some coppaslip on mi tapers then 👍

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Do you need model like this down?

Size should be M12 x 1,5mm, which is same as i got on my Auris, so i presume it's Toyota standard.

You can find it searching for FEBI BILSTEIN 26587  or  FEBI BILSTEIN 46663 (they are identical.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/febi-bilstein-26587-captive-washer/dp/B0068MO31Q

 

845520156911846#v5

 

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Are those some special edition alloys? Not sure if they'll fit, but I have nuts like what @furtula, got them from my local Toyota dealer at a reasonable price (to replace locking nuts). They seem to be decent quality chrome, as my brother's '09 Auris has the same and there is no corrosion.

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To my knowledge, they seem to be default for gen 1 Auris, i have them on my 07 with summer alloys. I haven't noticed any corrosion on them.

You can take 1 nut from that Auris and give it a try, but i think should be the same size as written above.

The model from the picture costs around 2 GBP where i'm at.

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On 6/24/2018 at 9:22 AM, Catlover said:

Thanks, I've just bought the black ones! I will send a photo after I put them on lol 

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I've put them on, lol

 

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I've fitted some as well Forge,  it's pity the ugly locking wheel nut can't be covered somehow.

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6 hours ago, Duffryn said:

it's pity the ugly locking wheel nut can't be covered somehow.

Exactly what I thought.  😋

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You could just get rid of the locking nuts, I'm considering it myself. Who's going to steal wheels off a 7 year old Prius? 🙂

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On 7/3/2018 at 4:07 PM, QuantumFireball said:

You could just get rid of the locking nuts, I'm considering it myself. Who's going to steal wheels off a 7 year old Prius? 🙂

My thoughts too. Chalk up another reason why I don't like locking wheel nuts. Dog's breakfast!

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  • 5 years later...

Hi I know this is a old post do you know where I can find those wheel caps saying prius 10?

Thanks 

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