A/C Trouble shooting? Yaris Mk2 French 1.33L 2SZ-FE)

[defever]

Good evening fellow forum users,

In this recent heatwave, we would like to get the A/C sorted for good! I’m fairly competent with car mechanics on VW/Audi vehicles, but less knowledgeable with Toyota and A/C function in general.

My wife owns Yaris (Mk2 French 2006 SCP90R-CHMGKW 1.33L 2SZ-FE? Engine) which has been in the family since new. The A/C has never worked in her ownership (approx. 8years) so it’s probably a long shot but I’d like to troubleshoot and see what could be at fault.

The centre console loos like this:

 

The A/C button is at the centre of the middle circular control (vent control). Then pressed, the green light goes on, but there’s no change in the vent air temperature. Just the ambient air coming out.

So, my questions are:

Where do I start with troubleshooting lack of A/C function?

Do any fellow forum users know a Toyota specialist in Hampshire area (specifically between Winchester and Southampton), please?

Many thanks as always!

 

Happy motoring!

[Lexx06]

I don't know anyone in your area, however, I'd go down to your local garage and get the AC gas checked if after the refill it is still not working replace the AC Compressor(Used around 40-60).

[Parts-King]

Take it to a specialist, have it checked, with UV dye, to see if there is a leak. My guess is the condenser or high pressure pipe is leaking, then if it is showing no sign of a fault, have it gassed up. Compressors don't normally go, I have seen plenty of HP pipes leak, and sometimes condensers 

[defever]

Thanks very much both.

I learned about the basics of aircon system by watching few YouTube clips from the usual "car maintenance" Channels:

ChrisFix: How to Find AC Leaks in Your Car (UV Dye)

Chris Fix: How to Properly Recharge Your AC System

Ratchets And Wrenches: How a Car AC System Works - For Beginners

AC Avalanche : Auto Air Conditioning 101 Made Easy

I don't have a vacuum pump or a manifold gauge set so it'll likely to be a professional job. But I guess I can check the basics such as the compressor kicking in and injecting UV dye for leak check.

Yaris has already been to a local and trusting garage for this earlier this year, but it just came back with "we couldn't find anything wrong" and not much else so I got the message that they weren't really interested in spending their time diagnosing it. I will search for a local aircon specialist. It looks like there's no Toyota specialist within our locality.

Many thanks once again!

[Mooly]

The compressor will not run if there is no (or insufficient) gas in the system. Eight years is a long long time for a system to be non functional, and if there is no gas (and so no pressure) then moisture almost certainly will have entered. That is a problem because it will have saturated the 'drier' and also moisture reacts with the special oils used in the compressor and can cause it to become corrosive.

It will be interesting to see what the problem/s are. You need the services of a professional a/c engineer but In the first instance you could try just blipping the low side service port (engine NOT running) and seeing if there really is pressure in the system. Use a blunt plastic tool to depress the valve momentarily and see if there is any pressure. It is similar to a tyre valve in operation. Also, if you can squeeze any of the flexible hoses by finger pressure alone then the system has no pressure. If there is gas in the system then it will be very cold when you blip the valve. Wear gloves and goggles just to be sure and to stay safe.

If there is pressure in the system (even if its low) then that is good from the point of view of keeping moisture out.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[defever]

Ok a quick update!

So I just checked the pipes. I found the L valve towards the buklhead and H vale towards the bumper.

I blipped the L valve: NOTHING.

I squeezed the thin rubber hose section: quite hard but some give.

I squeezed the thicher rubber hose proximal to the H valuve: very squishy.

I then turned the engine on from cold, pressed A/C (green light on the button comes on), but the compressor clutch pulley doesn't seem to engage (there's a gap between the clutch and the pulley just like when the engine is not on).

 

So that pretty much means there's no refregerant and it's not looking good, am I right? I fear that's not a good news according to Mooly's comment.

 

Next step:

I need to find out what kind of gas it requires.

Is it worth getting a UV dye refregerant can to fill it up?

Or will it need a complete vacuuming of the system and properly fill up the gas?

I found a mobile A/C specialist Vehicool (member of IMI and Advanced Automotive Engineer, £55+VAT for diagnostics then £40+VAT/hr labour) based in Basingstoke so I may contact him for his help if it's sensible to leave it to a professional for this.

Many thanks for all your advice so far. I feel like I made a step forward to tackle this.

 

Happy motoring!

[FROSTYBALLS]

A 2008 vehicle will use R134a gas rather than the newer HFO-1234yf gas.

[bathtub tom]

ATS Euromaster have an air-con re-charge for thirty five quid through groupon: https://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/ats-euromaster-ltd-11

[Mooly]

Based on what you have found it does sound like all the gas has escaped due to a leak. There is nothing you can do at a diy level I'm afraid. The source of the leak needs to be found by using a pressure test using nitrogen. Only when that is fixed can the system be vacuum tested (to see if it holds a vacuum) and then fresh refrigerant be added.

Your problems are,

1/ Locating the leak. This may be easy if its relatively large.

2/ Fixing the leak. Maybe a new hose or condenser is needed.

3/ Now the biggest question mark of all. Will the system need flushing and the compressor oil need draining and replacing due to the long time the system has been non functional. Only a properly qualified and experienced air con specialist can advise on that. There is also the question mark of the drier having become saturated with moisture due to being open to the air.

4/ Only when all these things are done can you vacuum the system down and then add new gas. The new gas often contains UV dye to aid in future troubleshooting should it ever be needed. There should be a label on the bonnet or under bonnet area detailing the amount of refrigerant needed and the type, and also the type of compressor oil.

[defever]

Thanks very much everyone, especially Mooly.

Just for my reference (and possibly others with the same age and model), the A/C filling gas and oil spec seem to be (checked online, need to confirm the actual spec under the hood):

Gas: R134a / 370g

Oil: PAG46

I think I'll contact Vehicools to see whether if it's worth his time and our money to get the aircon back working. I'll keep updated.

 

Happy motoring!

 

[Mooly]

Good luck, I hope its an easy fix if you decide to go ahead.