Mk2 Yaris - Cut Key With DIsabled Immobliser

[Zoot7]

My wife has a 2006 Mk2 (2006) Yaris with only one key. Years ago when my sister owned the car, there were some big problems with the immobliser and the dealer had to totally disable the immobliser to solve the issues.

I would have thought since the immobliser is disabled then standard cut keys would work.

Well I got a new key cut today, and the new cut key will unlock the doors, but it won't turn the way it needs to in the door lock to lock the doors. It also won't turn at all in the ignition after putting it into it.

Is this what would be expected? Is there a check that will prevent a non-coded key turning in either the ignition or the door lock? I'm guessing I'll just have to go somewhere that has the blank keys that can be properly programmed for you.

[Mooly]

It sounds like a simple case of a poorly cut key tbh, and/or its just slightly off but the locks and ignition barrel are worn. All mechanical issues. In the first instance I would try another cut key.

A key that works with an immobiliser simply has an unpowered microchip embedded within the plastic fob. When the key is inserted in the ignition, the car is able to 'talk' to and power the chip in the key via 'inductive coupling'. A bit like WiFi although that's not a good analogy. 

So your issues of the key not turning are mechanical.

[Zoot7]

5 hours ago, Mooly said:

It sounds like a simple case of a poorly cut key tbh, and/or its just slightly off but the locks and ignition barrel are worn. All mechanical issues. In the first instance I would try another cut key.

A key that works with an immobiliser simply has an unpowered microchip embedded within the plastic fob. When the key is inserted in the ignition, the car is able to 'talk' to and power the chip in the key via 'inductive coupling'. A bit like WiFi although that's not a good analogy. 

So your issues of the key not turning are mechanical.

Thanks for your post. I've since tried it again and you were right about the mechanical issues about not turning.

I can unlock and lock the car with the key and turn it in the ignition now - with a bit of levering since it's a fresh key. But if I try to start the car with the new key, the starter motor kicks in with the new key and never starts the car, you just hear it ticking over. The old key starts it just fine as expected. Looks like the immobliser is still working.

Would that behaviour be expected if you try to start the car with a key not containing the right RFID chip? I thought nothing would happen if you try to start it in that case. Just curious if anyone has any knowledge.

[Heidfirst]

4 hours ago, Zoot7 said:

But if I try to start the car with the new key, the starter motor kicks in with the new key and never starts the car, you just hear it ticking over. The old key starts it just fine as expected. Looks like the immobliser is still working.

Would that behaviour be expected if you try to start the car with a key not containing the right RFID chip? I thought nothing would happen if you try to start it in that case. Just curious if anyone has any knowledge.

that's what should happen -starter turns but ignition doesn't fire.

[Mooly]

Pleased to hear you have got the key to fit and turn OK. I've never had experience of what the behaviour is when trying to start with a non chipped key but thinking about it, what Heidfirst says makes sense on an older vehicle. The starter solenoid (that connects the motor to the battery) is under control of the ignition barrel keyswitch. On a later car with stop/start (for example) that's not the case because the starter is operated via the engine management. So either scenario is possible depending on the sophistication of the vehicle electronics. Yours sounds fine though.

[Zoot7]

Thank you both for your answers - that's answered my question. I need a proper key with the correct RFID. 

 

[alan333]

Try holding the working key near the ignition barrel while attemptng to start the car with the new key.

[stantheman1]

I would strongly recommend getting a second programmed key cut because if anything was to happen to the only working key it would present you with a very expensive solution indeed.

If funds are tight at the moment you could temporarily get another blank key cut and then 'gaffer' tape the original working key under the dash in close proximity to the ignition barrel until such time funds allow.

[Zoot7]

Apologies for the late reply to this thread, I didn't get time to go playing around with the cut key since.

However I can confirm that holding the original key near the ignition barrel and starting the car with the cut key works. The position of where you have to hold it can vary a little at times though, I find it has to be right on top of the cut key having it a few cm away won't work.