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2003 Yaris D4D Overheating


mecheng46
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I think i need some help, i do around 100miles on motorway every day and recently my diesel yaris started overheating on motorway when i am going above 2200rpm. When the car red temp light comes on the dash, if i slow down and drop the rpms it goes away after a minute or so. No coolant loss and my cooling system seems to be under excessive pressure all the time.

 

I tried few things so far with no success. There are couple of rubber plugs on the engine (one on the engine block and one on a pipe connected to the thermostat housing) which i removed with the engine running and warm and i only get water coming out of the bottom one, the top one on the engine block is only puffing steam every now and then. 

 

I removed the radiator top hose with the engine running and there is no water coming out of it. I think the water in the cooling system don’t circulate.

 

Also my heater air is either boiling hot or stone cold and it switches from cold to hot at random times (always on the hot setting).

 

So far i checked the water pump and thermostat and both are working ok. No water in the oil either.

 

I understand previous years yaris engines had an issue with the head gasket which it might be the case with my car however what i don’t seem to understand is if the engine is not losing coolant and there is enough coolant in the system i cannot see how a head gasket can cause it to overheat.

 

any help will be much appreciated

 

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Seems like it could be an air lock in the cooling system. I don't know how to bleed that engine, but It's probably on the internet somewhere.

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I searched all the internet and i can’t find the correct bleeding procedure for my car.

 

i tried few different things last night with no success.

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I have bled the Yaris...warm up engine. Switch off. Take off radiator cap - WITH CARE - hot. Squeeze lower radiator pipe - with care - several times.. Squeeze upper pipe. Check fluid level. Top up if needed. replace cap. Drive 3-5 miles. Repeat.

 

It's more likely to be a heavily corroded radiator - either missing fins, dirt in fins or internally blocked.. When was the coolant last changed? As it is a 2003 model , it should have been changed in 2013 AND this year (Toyota recommendations). If the fluid is not orangey /pink and looks brownish, there is internal corrosion.

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is your eml ligjt going on....what is the dtc code? You can check the coolant temperature with torque pro and get the actual temperature while driving.

 

Though if you are getting warm air from the heater obviously it must be circulating.

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"Also my heater air is either boiling hot or stone cold and it switches from cold to hot at random times (always on the hot setting)."

 

Not enough fluid in the system.. needs to be be bled of air.. NOTE: you need to bleed with the heating control set to HOT so the air in the heater can be bled as well (air in heater will give cold air from heater at times)

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Head gasket was the problem in the end, high CO levels in my coolant

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