ABS goes in every now and then when stopping.

[BALIKBAYAN]

Since a while ago the ABS goes in every now and then when I stop the car. There is no warning lights on in the car. It started after I had to step very hard on the brake pedal when driving about 70 km/h and stopped less than a feet from the other car. I had green light and the other must have had red light. The other car started to drive out slowly in front of me just when I passed the green traffic light.

I let a garage have a look at it today. The garage is a well known good independent garage and I trust the owner, he lives less than 100 m from me. They scanned the car and did road tests too. They told me that it is the left rear speed sensor and that it is inside of the wheel bearing, means they have to change the wheel bearing. The cost to repair it would be around £400.

Is that a reasonable cost for this work?

Should I also change the other wheel bearing? They are the same age.

Is it worth paying that much on my old Avensis just passed 260 000 km last week?

 

[Duggerz]

If your car is the 2003-08 model yes the sensor is in the rear bearing. A Toyota bearing is about £200+ but they are simple and quick to fit, no press needed since the bearing is also the hub. £400 is perhaps a little strong just for that job, but you can get a good quality aftermarket bearing like Borg and Beck for £100 and fit it yourself in an hour, two max. Regards Ian.

[BALIKBAYAN]

Thanx for the quick answer. I will have a look for a aftermarket bearing.

I will study the workshop manual before I buy a bearing from autodoc.se . I guess it will be a SKF bearing kit for just above £80.

Yes, I am from Sweden and that is why I will choose that brand.

 

[BALIKBAYAN]

Is it possible to remove the hub without dismantling the parking brake and the backing plate? It look slike that on this picture from the workshop manual.

m_30_0030.pdf

[Duggerz]

SKF is also a very good brand as you know. I don't care which brand you use, that is up to you. I only used by and b because that's what I used and I know they are good quality.

You can replace the bearing without removing the backing plate but you do have to remove the parking brake mechanism and it's fiddly. I suggest you take a few pictures before taking it apart so you can see the direction of the clips etc the abs wire is also fiddly you need to push the tab in with a screwdriver while also puking on the connector. I find it best to have the hub removed in all other resources before doing this so I can see what I'm doing. 4 bolts on the hub and if I remember correctly one can't easily be reached with a socket so I hooked 2 spanners together to get enough leverage.

[Duggerz]

Ps the parking brake cable doesn't need to be disassembled, only the adjuster.

[BALIKBAYAN]

Once again, THANX.

[BALIKBAYAN]

I tried to change the hub bearing today. Yes, the contact to the sensor was a bit difficult to remove, but suddenly it was off. It was a lot of dirt there. I managed to unbolt everything, but the hub was still stuck on the car. I used almost 2 cans of rust loosening oil (CRC 5-56). I used lot of heat (gas burner) to try to get the rust to leave the hub. The hub was still stuck there. It ended up that I got everything back again and the new hub bearing still in its box. 😞

I look forward to great ideas how to get the old hub from the car.

[Duggerz]

I just gave the front edge of the flange a good tap with a hammer from each side and that loosened it up.

[BALIKBAYAN]

I tried the hammer too, sides, above, under, from the inside and also from the outside.

I guess I will give it another try tomorrow.

 

 

[Konrad C]

On 10/4/2018 at 4:44 PM, BALIKBAYAN said:

Is it possible to remove the hub without dismantling the parking brake and the backing plate? It look slike that on this picture from the workshop manual.

m_30_0030.pdf

Sorry to be late with the reply. Yes the hub bearing come of after removing the disc and pads. The shoes and backing plates stay in position. There is a hole in the hub to insert the socket to the bolts to release the hub. I changed one a few years ago and it only to a few minutes to remove and refit a secondhand one. 

[BALIKBAYAN]

No, Konrad you are wrong. I guess you have not looked at the attached pdf file in the original post. The bolts are mounted from the back to the hub. The hub does not goes clear from the brake shoes when dismantling/mounting the hub.

Your description  is how it looks on older toyota cars. On the T25 Avensis you have to remove the shoes, like Duggerz wrote and the workshop manual says. Unfortunately the hub was too hard to remove, even when all the bolts was off. I had to let a workshop do the job. I tried to warm it off, but it is difficult to get the heat at the right place with the weed burner I used. Workshops have better things to warm things.

[Konrad C]

2 hours ago, BALIKBAYAN said:

No, Konrad you are wrong. I guess you have not looked at the attached pdf file in the original post. The bolts are mounted from the back to the hub. The hub does not goes clear from the brake shoes when dismantling/mounting the hub.

Your description  is how it looks on older toyota cars. On the T25 Avensis you have to remove the shoes, like Duggerz wrote and the workshop manual says. Unfortunately the hub was too hard to remove, even when all the bolts was off. I had to let a workshop do the job. I tried to warm it off, but it is difficult to get the heat at the right place with the weed burner I used. Workshops have better things to warm things.

I stand corrected Magnus. The bolts go through the axle carrier from the inside. Sounds like galvanic corrosion, when aluminium and steel components are seized together. 

I did change a Prius front hub bearing a couple of years back, and the the bearing was seized inside the hub carrier. I brought the hub carrier back home and tried my press. I then went to a friends garage, and a more powerful press, lot's of WD40 or similar, heat with blow torch and eventually a club hammer until the two part separated. I have watched a few Youtube mechanics, and one US mechanic by the name of Eric of South Main Auto uses a air jackhammer. This is his go to tool when dealing with seized parts. 
Back to your car, removing the shoes is not too difficult unless things are corroded or seized. I remove the retaining pins and clips holding the shoes, then the springs. After that the shoes should come off. I sounds easy but never is.  
I hope you succeed and get the job done. Sorry for confusing the older hub of the earlier cars ( I have worked on both the drum only and disc/drum combos of the Mk1 Avensis). 

[BALIKBAYAN]

It is ok, Konrad. It looks different on different models. I read about rear hubs in different Hayne's manuals and it was different in most of them.

The hub was changed by the local workshop (not TOYOTA), but the ABS still goes in just before the car is stopping sometimes.

It feels like it was not the sensor in the hub that was the problem though.

It is much easier to dismantle the shoes than put them back again, but it is not too difficult. Just to remember how the springs are suposed to be mounted.

The Toyota workshop manual (bought a CD from e-bay years ago when I bought the car) say that you should start with the upper front spring then the upper rear spring and the metal thing between the shoes. Then you are should take the lower spring and the adjuster wheel. The last you should take away is the retaining clips that holds the shoes to the backing plate using a special tool. Mounting is the reverse.

The last thing is to adjust the parking brake: turn the adjuster until the shoes sits firmly to the drum and then release the adjuster about 8 steps. After the adjustment of the shoes one might have to adjust the parkingbrake lever (6-9 clicks) and if the shoes are new you should also have to grind them to the drums too while driving.