Auris 2013 > instrument cluster removal (dashboard)

[Packard]

i have a horrid rattle rattle behind the main instrument cluster in a 2013 Auris tourer, any ideas on how to remove this and see what can be dampened?

looks like the main shroud just pulls out, or do you need to remove other parts first?

any help appreciated 

[Gerg]

This is a screen shot from the Toyota guide to upgrading the radio, the original is available on the Toyota GB website for free if you search hard.  The document title is at the very top of the picture.

These guides are all picture-based, there is no relevant text to go with this screen shot.

Looks like there are some screws on the instrument cluster.  As the car isn't with me currently, I can't remember what '3' looks like when fitted.

There is some access available by removing the r/h dash end panel (the one that gets hidden when the door is closed).  This pops off quite easily, no screws.  Perhaps that might be enough if your hands aren't too big. 

Don't forget to update on how you get on!

HTH.

 

[Packard]

Thank you, I take it removing the main cluster is just screws? Any need to disconnect Battery ?

[Gerg]

I've not had a reason to remove one yet, I downloaded all the relevant 'how-to' guides when I found them, just in case I needed them later.  The diagram shows four 'pull' clips on the outer case, and two clips and 2 screws on the instrument module.  This is roughly the same as any Mazdas or Nissans I've taken off. 

I didn't disconnect the Battery on those, perhaps I got lucky, they worked fine afterwards.  Perhaps someone knows the official line. 

On some cars there is enough loom-slack on the instruments to get behind it without disconnecting.

Months ago, I was at a Toyota dealer when they had parked an Auris in mid-repair into the used-car-for-sale car park.  The car had its dash part-dismantled, but had been put back together without the top of the dash.  It would have been awkward getting in the car to take pictures of it, not least because the keys were in and the ignition was left switched on...  Maybe these pics through the windscreen might be of use. The last picture shows the power steering motor (shiny cube) with the instruments on the left, not very clear, I know.

 

 

[Packard]

Absolute legend thank you.. now for a sunny day to do the deed.

[Gerg]

I have just had to remove the instrument cluster to investigate the 'Auris flashing speedometer illumination' syndrome.

That last Toyota diagram in this thread does not show the trims that have to come off in a very clear fashion; so here's another one.

This is a picture of a left hand drive dash. All the trims shown simply pull off towards the rear of the car. There are two securing clips behind the instruments (red arrows), as well as the two philips screws, these release by carefully pulling the binnacle forwards, but they're plenty stiff, enough to make you think you have missed some other clip or screw.  The two wiring loom connections at the rear of the binnacle have enough spare loom length to disconnect their plug/sockets without problem

I removed the binnacle to the left of the steering wheel (which needs to be lowered and extended to its limit).  The radio trim has to be moved out the way, or else the gap isn't large enough - it's that tight.  The steering wheel is best turned 90 degrees to the right to maximize the gap.

The rear of the binnacle itself is removed via 8 Torx screws.  The speedo, charge and fuel gauge needles (if/when you need to remove them) are very stiff.  I would strongly recommend using a pair of teaspoons to lever them off.

When the bare pcb was plugged back in to the car, the offending LED was actually seen to be two LEDs (wired in series?).  When the binnacle PCB is gently flexed (it creaks quite a lot initially when flexed - more than I can remember other circuit boards without SMD LEDs ever doing, I have worked with a lot of PCBs over time!) the flickering of both LEDs can be made to stop and start, up to a point.  Gently flexing the PCB slightly closer to its centre section can also trigger the other 2 LEDs in the illumination 'arc' to flicker instead.  What joy.

The soldering to all the components on the whole circuit board looks flawless.  But I do wonder about the lead-free solder 'bridging' phenomenon (between adjacent tracks) coming into play here?  I was considering if a fibreglass pencil, used over solder joints, might help to reduce to possibility of this bridging effect? 

The whole instrument assembly is made by VDO, almost certainly in Europe.  

The flickering phenomenon has gone for the moment, so I have put this all back together whilst I await some spare LEDs to arrive, and to monitor the situation.  I will dig out my last can of freezer spray, if I can find it, in anticipation of the next time!

The 'charge' dash dial is illuminated by the LEDs shown with red arrows in the last picture.  The sizes are in mm.  There are spare LED positions next all four mentioned above - looks like some 'other colour' LEDs could be fitted here, and turned on in a feature that was not used on this model, perhaps something like the CT200h dash mode colour change when in 'Sport'?

[Gerg]

[Continuing on from the above.]

The problem of two flickering LEDs on the 'charge' dial came back after about an hour of driving.  Later, I removed the instrument binnacle again, and carefully re-soldered the connections to that pair of LEDs, and re installed it all back in the car.  After a couple of hours use, those LEDs are without problem so far, but the other 2 LEDs that illuminate this dial have started to flicker instead.  I am interested to see if this problem is a solder joint issue, which is strongly suspected, or a defective LED.  Hence the reason for not replacing any of the LEDs just yet, dear reader.

I have enquired how much a new instrument cluster is currently from Toyota, just to see how much this would cost if it was repaired through the 'official' Toyota route.  It is £690 including vat, plus the labour charge for fitting.

My spare white LEDs have turned up - they are a very close match for the originals in size, I've not put them in yet, so can't comment on colour temperature, brightness etc..  They were very keenly priced (£1 for 10!), from a UK seller on eBay.