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I need a new battery


davidgilmour
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One exactly the same as the already fitted will.  😀

What are you looking for - a cheap one, a good brand, what??

 

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22 minutes ago, Catlover said:

One exactly the same as the already fitted will.  😀

What are you looking for - a cheap one, a good brand, what??

 

Well, the already fitted one costs 720 euro (panasonic).

 

i am lookinh for a cheap one, I am in Holland.

so, will it fit?

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720 euro - is that a dealer supply. That’s a lot of money.

Have you done a search on the internet using the Battery deatils on the existing Battery and then check physical dimensions and connection details.  Are batteries that dear in France, Germany, Belgium etc.?

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Are you sure about €720? That seems excessive. The UK dealer price is €110 maximum.

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1 hour ago, dash said:

 The UK dealer price is €110 maximum.

Being a pedant it's £100 for those that operate the fixed price repair scheme so at current exchange rates €117 😛 but that does include fitting too.

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Be cheaper to get on the ferry to UK and have a Battery fitted over here.

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The original one that installed is made in Japan by Panasonic.

it is this one

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2009_TOYOTA_IQ_KGJ10L-BGMNGW_8201.html?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks

I know that Toyota now uses another one for exchange, but I can’t seem to find the exact size of it. 

That is why I am asking which one will fit.

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From your link, 46b24r Battery.. quick Google search brings up loads. For peace of mind, measure your existing one.

In this link, they give dimensions and equivalent codes. Type 057 is common usage term in UK. Make sure the Ah and CCA figures are at least what you already have.

https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/yuasa-12v-45ah-400a-car-battery-ybx3057-hb057-8798-p.asp

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Thanks. I want to replace it myself, what kind of equipment do i need? It is just a matter of unplugging the negative first, then postive and then a few screws?

i don’t need some special long screw?

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The terminals are usually clamped; my Corolla Battery uses a 10mm spanner/socket for those.

The Battery on mine is held in by a kind of clamping strap across the top. I just remove that (10mm again) and the Battery is free. It's usually only one or two bolts at most. You might need a socket set with extension bar if the bolt on yours is down at the bottom.

Yes, deffo remove negative first.

On some cars the computer loses some settings when you disconnect the battery, so it'll run just a bit flat while it relearns them. I've not experienced it myself, but others may be able to advise.

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I would just add that you should be careful not to overtighten any of the fixings and terminal clamps. When you push the terminal clamps onto the new Battery poles do it smartly and decisively ensuring the terminal clamp is fully pressed downward as far as it will go. Gently tighten the terminal clamp nut until the clamp is secure and resists you trying to turn it on the Battery pole. When that point is reached you only need another half turn or so of the nut. 

Also do not overtighten the retaining clamp such that it exerts under pressure on the Battery case.

The ECU will quickly relearn the optimum settings automatically. Just start the engine and let it idle for a couple of minutes before driving off.

 

    

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Ok, so I ordered a Battery for 50 euros (44 pounds) and hurray, it fits.

and yes, the engine starts.

only one thing. Stationairy the engine runs at 300 rpm. The car stood stll for 90 days, so it could be mess in the engine.

so i went for a 10 mile ride and now the engine runs statonairy at 800/900 rpm again.

all looks fine!

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Pleased to hear you got it fitted OK. A decent run is needed after disconnecting the Battery as that allows the ECU to relearn the correct settings from all the engine sensors. It takes it a little while to do that.

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3 hours ago, Mooly said:

Pleased to hear you got it fitted OK. A decent run is needed after disconnecting the battery as that allows the ECU to relearn the correct settings from all the engine sensors. It takes it a little while to do that.

Thanks, so the “stationairy bug” could be a thing of the ecu learning? I never had it with my older (pre 2002) cars.

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Yes, but it should be a one off thing. Once it has re-learnt the optimum settings it should not do that again. All cars are different in the complexities of the engine management system and different models will all react differently.

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