Engine temperature high

[3d360]

I have a very confusing issue regarding engine getting hot and water needs to be filled up.

I just dont understand where the water goes. There are no visible leaks at all and no dropping under the car. I have checked the water pump and there are no leaks or noise from it. Pump rotation is fine and no side movements from the rotor.

I have changed termostat but no change. The oil looks normal in the engine and the exhaust smoke looks normal and no white smoke at all. No leaks from cylinder head around gasket.

The radiator looks good and no visible leaks or cracks. I have though ordered a new one since it can be blocked or damaged from inside. But other than that I just dont get it regarding where the water goes and why I need to fill it.

Anyone had an issue like this or can help for further checks?

Edit. Its a 1az fse engine.

[furtula]

How often do you top up and how much do you put in?

Best way to check for leaks would be a piece of cardboard under the car with the plastics removed, you tried it that way?

Did you check the weep hole in the water pump for signs of leaks?

 

[mrfixer]

No point in fitting new parts until you have identified the problem. 

Start with an easy check first:

Take car to an MoT or emissions testing station and ask them to wave their four-gas analyser probe over the coolant expansion bottle. If it detects any HC then you have combustion gasses entering the coolant - sure sign of head gasket failure.

If it passes the above test then take it to a garage and have them pressurise the cooling system with a cold engine. This should help identify any leaks.

[paul9]

Check for damp carpets in the driver and passenger foot well. Perhaps your heaters are leaking into the passenger cabin.

[3d360]

4 minutes ago, furtula said:

How often do you top up and how much do you put in?

Best way to check for leaks would be a piece of cardboard under the car with the plastics removed, you tried it that way?

Did you check the weep hole in the water pump for signs of leaks?

 

Approx 0.5 liter every 40 or 50 km. Yes looked the hole and also was under the car removing plastic covers but did not find any sign of leaks.

[3d360]

6 minutes ago, paul9 said:

Check for damp carpets in the driver and passenger foot well. Perhaps your heaters are leaking into the passenger cabin.

I also thaught it may be related to heat package but cant find any wet spots inside the car.

[3d360]

38 minutes ago, mrfixer said:

No point in fitting new parts until you have identified the problem. 

Start with an easy check first:

Take car to an MoT or emissions testing station and ask them to wave their four-gas analyser probe over the coolant expansion bottle. If it detects any HC then you have combustion gasses entering the coolant - sure sign of head gasket failure.

If it passes the above test then take it to a garage and have them pressurise the cooling system with a cold engine. This should help identify any leaks.

I used my own analyzing equipment (my nose) and actually it smells exhaust fumes in the coolant container. But there are no leaks from gasket or white color in the oil. And strange thing is that color of exhaust smokes looks normal. But maybe a small crack in engine so its hard to detect it in the smoke?

[mrfixer]

9 minutes ago, 3d360 said:

I used my own analyzing equipment (my nose) and actually it smells exhaust fumes in the coolant container. But there are no leaks from gasket or white color in the oil. And strange thing is that color of exhaust smokes looks normal. But maybe a small crack in engine so its hard to detect it in the smoke?

Your nose is not good enough.  Seriously, pay a testing station £10 to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant.

An internal head gasket leak will not be visible to you, and mostly will not result in oil/water mixing. You may also not notice steam from the exhaust if the leak is occuring when the engine is hot.  Take out the plugs - one plug being cleaner than the rest indicates where the problem is.

If there is HC in the coolant then the head has to come off anyway. It won't be a cheap repair - maybe cheaper to get a used engine.

[3d360]

10 minutes ago, mrfixer said:

Your nose is not good enough.  Seriously, pay a testing station £10 to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant.

An internal head gasket leak will not be visible to you, and mostly will not result in oil/water mixing. You may also not notice steam from the exhaust if the leak is occuring when the engine is hot.  Take out the plugs - one plug being cleaner than the rest indicates where the problem is.

If there is HC in the coolant then the head has to come off anyway. It won't be a cheap repair - maybe cheaper to get a used engine.

I have compared to another cars coolant container (it smells coolant only) and mine have a heavy exhaust smell in it. And I had a good look this time at the coolant liquid and there is actually grey spots looking like small "clouds" in the liquid. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[3d360]

Do anyone know if there is a repair manual for the 1az fse engine regarding replacing gasket? I have replaced gaskets on a couple of cars with timing belt. Do anyone know if timing chains are more difficult to deal with?

[mrfixer]

18 minutes ago, 3d360 said:

I have compared to another cars coolant container (it smells coolant only) and mine have a heavy exhaust smell in it. And I had a good look this time at the coolant liquid and there is actually grey spots looking like small "clouds" in the liquid. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you can smell it as strong as that then you have a major blow. Head needs to come off to start with then take it from there.

[3d360]

1 hour ago, mrfixer said:

If you can smell it as strong as that then you have a major blow. Head needs to come off to start with then take it from there.

Yes, there are no daubts about the smell. The head needs removal there are no other option. 

[avetoy]

Like mrfixer said, it may be cheaper to swap engine....

If I understood correct, your engine is getting hot and only after 0,5 liter coolant addition temperature returns normal? I assume that the expansion tank is also fulfilled then? In my opinion the expansion tank must be totally empty before the engine starts to get hot...

Timing chain engine is not difficult, but takes just more time...

As you have done some head gasket jobs, you know about leveling the head etc. But have you noticed that your engine block is aluminum too? There may also be a problem...

You will need new bolts, a lot of other new gaskets, etc... And time of course! It won´t be cheap so please consider another engine.

[furtula]

Since you mentioned that you did this work before, i think it's worthwhile opening up the engine to check out the damage, it might not be that bad.

Your other options are to scrap/change it anyway, but with car that old, i don't know how financially smart decisions that would be for You.

Below you have a link to Toyota's website with instructions how to fix it, it costs around 3-5 euros or so for 1 hour, you can download the instructions, or print it, anyway you can keep it after the time expires, so i think it's worth spending a bit as you get detailed info.

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/td/template/index.aspx?file_reference=fi94Y3ZydHkzL1BaNDcxWkEwMDFDQV92NC9jb250ZW50cy9pbmRleC5odG1s

 

[3d360]

On 5/27/2019 at 8:27 AM, avetoy said:

Like mrfixer said, it may be cheaper to swap engine....

If I understood correct, your engine is getting hot and only after 0,5 liter coolant addition temperature returns normal? I assume that the expansion tank is also fulfilled then? In my opinion the expansion tank must be totally empty before the engine starts to get hot...

Timing chain engine is not difficult, but takes just more time...

As you have done some head gasket jobs, you know about leveling the head etc. But have you noticed that your engine block is aluminum too? There may also be a problem...

You will need new bolts, a lot of other new gaskets, etc... And time of course! It won´t be cheap so please consider another engine.

If engine swap is needed I believe its better to buy another car since it will cost a lot to do that and also never know how the "new" engine is. 

But, I think chances are good that it is not that horrible since I have not let the temperature go to the red mark, And also I believe that the temperature rises because of air locks in the fluid since obviously exhaust gases are coming in to the coolant system. It of course looses fluid but not all fluids in the container is gone. And also bubbles comes up in the container so I think you are right that it is not because of loosing a little of fluids that makes hot but probably because of airlocks. The funny thing is when I drove it suddenly engine became normal in temperature without doing anything, so therefore I think airlocks is the problems coming from the exhausts. However, as soon I am back from travelling I will look more into this issue.

[3d360]

On 5/27/2019 at 9:20 AM, furtula said:

Since you mentioned that you did this work before, i think it's worthwhile opening up the engine to check out the damage, it might not be that bad.

Your other options are to scrap/change it anyway, but with car that old, i don't know how financially smart decisions that would be for You.

Below you have a link to Toyota's website with instructions how to fix it, it costs around 3-5 euros or so for 1 hour, you can download the instructions, or print it, anyway you can keep it after the time expires, so i think it's worth spending a bit as you get detailed info.

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/td/template/index.aspx?file_reference=fi94Y3ZydHkzL1BaNDcxWkEwMDFDQV92NC9jb250ZW50cy9pbmRleC5odG1s

 

Thanks for the link, will help a lot when doing the work. 

[avetoy]

You´re right, you never know about used engines. I have bought some engines from insurance companies (they sell parts from accident- cars) and those engines have been tested and they have some kind of warranty too.