Limp mode no check engine or any warning lights

[kldnz]

Hello,

So I have a toyota avensis 2005 2.2 dcat had it for 2 years and everything was fine until few days back.

I was driving from a stop light first gear - fine, second went over 3k rpm (around 3.5k) and then it just went into limp mode, was not responding to gas pedal at all.

Then I stopped pressed on the gas pedal and on stand still it won't rev more than 3k rpm. So the car went into limp mode. 

Went to a garage and run a statistic checks, everything was quite fine there. Then they noticed that the ECU had a rewritten file, to ignore DPF check. So they went in and restored in to original file.

And got P2047 code, which is the fifth injector and causes limp mode. So for the past 2 days we tried to fix the error TL;DR a wire was cut before I even got the car, so we went on and fixed it added a 1k om resistor instead of the 5th injector blanked off DPF and EGR, but the car was still in limp mode, 

Then I noticed that the hose going from air filter onto turbine was loose, so I though maybe it's not getting any pressure and it causes limp mode, so went on and bought a new hose, fitted sealed properly. limp mode still on, but since we fixed the P2047 the engine lights went off and diagnostics did not show any error codes I mean nothing clean, statistics fine, car throttle regulator working fine, replaced MAF sensor, did not resolve the issue as well. 

Oil change was done 2 months ago including all the filters. And I pour diesel only from oil stations no third party or etc. 

So we went and checked all the turbo hoses and what do you know everything is fine. 

I reject that injector are bad since statistics show everything fine and as the mechanic said he doubts it as well since I would have trouble starting the car in the morning or if it stood still for few hours. 

But the car starts without any issues.

So I went on the internet googling stuff and found this: 

Can it be possible that my issue is the same and I have a clogged catalytic converter, went on and pushed the gas as the mechanic held his hand behind the exhaust pipe since if it was clogged it would not have any pressure, but he said something is coming out but I dont know how much pressure there should be.

He said MAP sensor would ignite a check engine, as well as blown turbo. And that he is literally out of ideas then said I should go to a garage get my exhaust pipe detached right after DPF and see if the car revs freely then it's the catalytic convertor.

So going to do that tomorrow. 

But still we went on and check almost everything and if it's not the catalytic converter I'm literally out of ideas as the mechanic as well.

So do you guys have any more ideas what could be wrong? 

[paul9]

My turbo actuator valve was jammed with no Check Engine light or diagnostic codes logged.

[kldnz]

1 hour ago, paul9 said:

My turbo actuator valve was jammed with no Check Engine light or diagnostic codes logged.

Could you show me a picture how the sensor looks and where it's located so I would know where to look for it, did you have same symptoms?

As I saw that the issue happened while I was driving it always hit my mind that it's a turbo issue, but who knows.

EDIT:

Googled how it looks, and I checked it, the thingie moves when I press throttle so I would assume it's not stuck. 

Edited June 19, 2019 by kldnz
Additional comments

[kldnz]

TL;DR

 

Cleaner catalytic converter, did not help. But while driving home in the limp mode the car magically came alive but I heard a weird noise, so it seems that the turbo was stuck, then it forcefully spin it out making it loose and destroyed the spinning thing ( don't know how that spinning thing is called in english), so replacing the turbo tomorrow. Fun thing is that the computer did not return any error that the spiny thing was stuck so we wrote off that it was the turbo almost instantly. But here we are after a long week and a lot of investment replacing the turbo.

The catalytic converter was clogged as well. 

[Duggerz]

Hi, It's called the impeller. You can replace only the internals of the turbo, called the CHRA, and it's much easier than taking the whole thing off. You take off the inlet side and leave the turbo body on. Melett here in the UK sell replacements, and I expect there's a company where you are.

Regards
Ian

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[kldnz]

So i replaced the turbo car runs great when cold. Now another issue

When the endinge gets hot and I stop at a stop light it just stops. I can start the engine but it stalls again. But i start then press the throttle and it revs up it goes fine. While driving and not stopping it runs fine. But when I stop at a stop light it stalls. If I press the gas pedal up to 1k rpm when at a traffic light it does not stop. It just happens when at idle and stopped and warm. 

 

Im out of ideas.... And im starting to pull my hair out... Please help...