Rear hub bearing, torque setting

[Tony.Rogers]

Could some kind soul with a manual please look up the torque setting for the 4 bolts that hold the rear hub bearing in place?

Mk1 Yaris, 2004 1.0L

thank you.

[Bomber209]

Tony Hi, Torque for each of the  4 x bolts is 90Nm or 67Ft/lbs.

[sproutdreamer]

2 hours ago, Bomber209 said:

Tony Hi, Torque for each of the  4 x bolts is 90Nm or 67Ft/lbs.

My Haynes Manual says 52NM or 38ft lbs?

[Tony.Rogers]

8 hours ago, sproutdreamer said:

My Haynes Manual says 52NM or 38ft lbs?

That sounds more like the sort of figure I'd expect, maybe the other figures are the actual wheel nuts.

Thank you.

[Tony.Rogers]

11 hours ago, Bomber209 said:

Tony Hi, Torque for each of the  4 x bolts is 90Nm or 67Ft/lbs.

Thanks Bomber, but someone else has given me much lower figures.

Can I ask where these figures came from please?

[Bomber209]

Tony Hi, I got them from my Yaris manual. Wheel nuts are given as 76 ft/lbs (103 N/m)

[Tony.Rogers]

3 minutes ago, Bomber209 said:

Tony Hi, I got them from my Yaris manual. Wheel nuts are given as 76 ft/lbs (103 N/m)

Thank you for the info.

So there's a discrepancy between your manual & the Haynes one. Helpful, eh?

I notice your manual is a PDF, is there any way I might be able to get a copy please?

[sproutdreamer]

It looks as if there are two different ways of fixing the hub bolts. My (French built) 04 1.3 Yaris has the hub flange threaded and the bolts are at the rear of the brake plate ie accessed from the back side of the brake plate. Other Yaris's as shown on the PDF above have the body flange threaded and the bolts are through the hub flange plain holes and accessed from the brake shoe side.

I am not sure why the torques would be different-perhaps they are both right?

As a thought the hubs will be different for these two options i.e. one will have threaded holes and the other clearance holes!

[Tony.Rogers]

26 minutes ago, sproutdreamer said:

It looks as if there are two different ways of fixing the hub bolts. My (French built) 04 1.3 Yaris has the hub flange threaded and the bolts are at the rear of the brake plate ie accessed from the back side of the brake plate. Other Yaris's as shown on the PDF above have the body flange threaded and the bolts are through the hub flange plain holes and accessed from the brake shoe side.

I am not sure why the torques would be different-perhaps they are both right?

As a thought the hubs will be different for these two options i.e. one will have threaded holes and the other clearance holes!

Well spotted. Mine is French built & the bolts go in from the back, so I think your (lower) torque figures are right.

 

Thank you, much appreciated

[Tony.Rogers]

3 hours ago, Bomber209 said:

Tony Hi, I got them from my Yaris manual. Wheel nuts are given as 76 ft/lbs (103 N/m)

Bomber209, What year Yaris is your manual for?

[m456an]

I think they are 52nm as they come out with very little effort. But taking the hub out is the problem.

[sproutdreamer]

The way to get the hub out is to leave in the bollts but with say 5mm free on the threads and then use a socket extension on the bolt head and apply a lump hammer to the socket extension working from side to side. Works a treat

[Bomber209]

Hi, it's the Toyota Factory Repair Manual. 2007 - 2012.

[Tony.Rogers]

4 minutes ago, Bomber209 said:

Hi, it's the Toyota Factory Repair Manual. 2007 - 2012.

That'll be the source of the confusion, mine is a 2004, so a completely different car!

[m456an]

16 hours ago, sproutdreamer said:

The way to get the hub out is to leave in the bollts but with say 5mm free on the threads and then use a socket extension on the bolt head and apply a lump hammer to the socket extension working from side to side. Works a treat

I was using a dead blow hammer, OK I have ordered a lump hammer 4 lb. Though I will do the work after the wives driving test, Haynes recommends a punch and hammar but your way is better. If that no work, than I will try a hub pulley which I think works by trying to twist the hub out.