Toyota Yaris automatic 2006 won’t start

[Grieg]

My Yaris 2006 automatic has now stopped running twice at traffic lights. Then while trying to restart the engine, nothing & the break pedal seizes up. After about 4minutes the engine restarts. 

Anyone got any ideas why this is happening & what needs fixed? 

[FROSTYBALLS]

Moved to the Yaris club.

[m456an]

Your using a phone to post, brake become break meaning broken. I make the same mistake using my phone.

But front brakes never work with engine off, you need to use hand brakes at lights.

 

Sounds like Battery is going or alternator. Check the voltages, and dtc errors.

[furtula]

Do the rpm's slowly go down and engine dies, or just stops abruptly?

What are the rpm's when idle with all acessories on/off?

Seeing as it only happens on traffic lights, maybe it's just something related to idle speed when the car is under heavy load, example radio + lights + AC..

[Grieg]

Thanks for all posts. Am now gonna take it to the garage today to get the Battery checked. 

 

[mrpj]

7 hours ago, m456an said:

Your using a phone to post

Pot, kettle black. Maybe your phone is doing similar?

[Mrnippa]

Hi guys n gals, I have a yaris 1.3vvti late 03 model. I have changed Battery and starter. When I switch the car on all dash lights are in. When I turn it over there is a rapid noise from the starter but not turning over. There is power through the car but checked the coils and they don't seem to be producing spark. Is this too do with immobiliser issue... Any help appreciated

[mrpj]

39 minutes ago, Mrnippa said:

When I turn it over there is a rapid noise from the starter but not turning over.

Which would suggest that your starter isn't engaging. Assuming by turning over you mean the engine?

[Mrnippa]

The starter fires but doesn't engage, I've had a few people out, the AA couldn't tell me as they couldn't get into the Ecu so I changed that and I've had an auto electrician out and he said there is a power drain on the car but can't find it. I have changed starter, alternator, ecu, fuses, and it still has a power drain. So I think possibly these could be two separate issues. But too me it feels like the circuit is grounding out somewhere. Or not as the case maybe and standing charge is 12.4. I haven't been able to run the car but I'll go back to it the following day and it's at 11.3. No ignition on or nothing left on. 

[Madasafish]

The way to identify a current drain is to remove fuses one by one until you remove one that makes the drain stop.  (Edit: and repalce each in turn if removing makes no difference or you may have a heap of fuses and don't know where to put them!).  Usual suspects are interior lights both in cabin and in boot..Might take a while.. but it is not rocket science..

[furtula]

As said above, you can try checking for parasitic drain by yourself. All you need is a multimeter, which is cheap, and some free time.

Plenty of instructions online, and videos on how it's done (including this forum)

[Bomber209]

Hi, Try checking your Battery Earth lead for security. It sounds like the 'Pre-Engage'  is not engaging.

[cbrown180486@gmail.com]

hi there.

right.so I have one problem that's probably gonna turn into something else. so I bought a Yaris 1.3 vvti 2003 a little while ago. when i bought the car it ran fine, looked fine. got the vehicle home. went to start the following day and the car wouldn't start. it sounded like the starter was not connecting to the fly wheel. so I changed the starter and noticed that the power was draining from the car. so I checked Battery and it was knackered( I checked main Battery earth as well which was corroded and changed the earth point). so I then replaced the alternator and the Battery.so after this it seems to get worse. and drain quicker from the car, at this point I got fed up and called AA and his obd machine could not connect to the ecu. so he advised me to get another one, I have but cant program it. I have the old one back in and it reads the immobiliser chip in the key.( I do still need to code the new key to the car) but even after changing the ecu the problem is still persistent. so I decided to check the general workings of the car. so there is charge in battery but no power is getting to the points on the engine( this tells me the ecu is not sending any signals, which under assumption is why the AA could not connect to ecu) but upon further inspection every time I press the brake pedal, the battery drains to nothing, so I have taken the dash out, (the stereo, the cd changer, odometer+ an aftermarket stereo) this seems to have stopped the drain whilst the car isn't working but the brake pedal still drains the battery flat after being pressed to start car. so before I can code or recode anything I need to figure out why the brake switch or the gearbox sensor is draining power(although I dont think it is the sensor that is draining that amount of power that quickly) I cant do anything until I figure out this drainm problem and was hoping someone may of experienced the same or similar things.

 

thankyou in advance