Aygo (2015) infotainment upgrade Android Auto and Apple Carplay

[Umberto70]

I tested the rear view camera and the cable before finally mounting it.  I connected the rear view camera by  +12v from the cigarette lighter socket.  Now  you have everything already assembled, as flash22 says, check if when you engage reverse gear you have + 12v to the camera.

Another thing, i bought the Rear camera on aliexpress but unfortunately it didn't work and the screen was always black, so i bought another one on Amazon and everithing works fine.

 

[SjaakDeBeer]

When putting on the reverse without starting the car, it won’t do anything. Also in the setting you can adjust the brightness of the screen, there’s a general and video setting. The video setting is greyed out. 

I’ll measure the voltage and to see if the wiring is correct. 

@flash22What do you mean with only one side is powered? There’s only one reversing light, so that one should be powered. 
 

 

 

[Guest]

5 minutes ago, SjaakDeBeer said:

@flash22What do you mean with only one side is powered? There’s only one reversing light, so that one should be powered. 

One pin of the bulb is powered and the other is ground - are you sure you've connected to the powered pin (side) of the bulb?

[SjaakDeBeer]

I didn’t measure it but I’m pretty sure it’s connected correctly. I took the rear light out, and connected the colored wire to the reverse light. The black one should be the negative. 
 

 

[Guest]

1 hour ago, SjaakDeBeer said:

The black one should be the negative. 

Not sure about Toyota colour scheme, but on VW Group black is often power!

You need to check with a multimeter not just rely on colours.

[SjaakDeBeer]

Ok, just check it with a multimeter and the camera didn’t received any power. Connected the flimsy thin china cable once more with my own 2.5 mm cable and the camera is working. 🙂

Also ordered parking sensors, so the bumper needs to come off one last time. 

 

[flash22]

Toyota uses white/black or black/white (the latter is usually smaller gauge wire

the cameras pull very little current, circa 100-150ma so a 16/0.3 is more than plenty.

 

2.5mm stranded will carry 30 amps at 12v !!

[SjaakDeBeer]

I know 2.5 mm is overkill but I had some spare wire laying around.

Next on my todo is wiring the dab and making a fake floor in the trunk which will include my second pair of Speakers.

[flash22]

For rear fill, put the Speakers in the back doors, they will not do anything in the boot apart from take up what little space there is

[SjaakDeBeer]

Which back doors? I own a 3 doors 😉

It’s not my main car so the boot space isn’t really required. Also it will be around 10-15 cm thick, so I can easily fitt all the bags I need for shopping (and if not, I’ll take my main car). 

Before fabricating i’l test the sound with a pair of bookshelf Speakers. 

[Guest]

13 hours ago, SjaakDeBeer said:

Which back doors? I own a 3 doors 😉

In a 3 door in the panels below the rear side windows.

[SjaakDeBeer]

Not sure if there’s much room for speakerplacement. Also it’s curved so not sure if a speaker cover will be nice to see… Has anyone done something similar?

[flash22]

It will sound **** in the boot - with most sound systems you want the sound stage up front, sound deaden the doors, a half decent set of 2 way components and a small power pack amp like an alpine KTA-450 or a Pioneer GM-D1004

Maybe an under seat sub, is only a small car

you don't see many mk2 3 door Aygos

 

ps. house Speakers are typically 8 omh whereas in car Speakers are 4 ohm you risk killing the amp chip in the radio

 

edit. the Speakers can go it the rear pocket in the trim with a little bit of fabrication

 

[SjaakDeBeer]

I think a subwoofer won’t be necessarily. If so, it will be my fifth speaker. Planning on using 2 or 3 way Speakers, directly attached to the head unit. 

I drive a 3 doors Peugeot 108. The amplifiers you suggested, are they only for the low tones or full range?

Might need to take off the whole panel to figure out where to put the Speakers. 

[flash22]

not 2 or 3 way but 2 way components eg. 2 Speakers 1 tweeter and 1 mid with a crossover, Amplifiers are full range but usually have High and/or Low pass switches if you want to run a single channel highs and lows - i have a Genesis Amp here set up and tuned for that exact purpose

Speakers can go in the rear pockets it the trim is the same as the c1/aygo

eg.

https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/boczek-tapicerka-prawy-tyl-aygo-ii-c1-ii-3drzwi-i8538293589.html

 

Rear Speakers all you need is 2way full range run off the head unit

[Guest]

In my Mk1 C1 I fitted a 3 way component system in the front (tweeters in the A pillar, mids on the dash and woofers in the doors) plus 3 way 6x9's on the rear parcel shelf (unplugable so the parcel shelf could be removed when needed) and a powered sub in the boot on the back of the rear seat so the boot was still usable. The double DIN Alpine system allowed tuning of the crossover frequencies and the time delays to each channel so I was able to optimise the sound stage to be focussed on the drivers seat.

OTT for most people but I enjoyed the challenge (and the sound). Won't be going that far on my Mk2 Aygo, if I do anything at all.

[SjaakDeBeer]

Well… it’s more then plenty to add the 2 way component Speakers in the rear pockets. The tweeter can be mounted almost everywhere in the trim.
 

I need to figure out how the amplifier should be connected and which size speakers/grills I need to cover the whole hole. Can it tap in from the rear left and rear right speaker? Also from the front, so I can pull new cables from the amplifier to the front left/right an rear left/right? If I understand correctly a 4 way amplifier should be capable off that? 
 

The strange thing is I consulted several companies with the questions if it’s possible to add an amplifier in the factory radio so the radio is only used as an input, and attach aftermarket speaker to 4 positions (fl, fr, rl & rr) and the answer was always no…

 

@PetrolDave Got any pictures of the audio system in the MK1? I also thought I would be adding a second pair of Speakers but the. I found a new head unit with CarPlay, for a relatively low prince I could get a reversing cam, and the head unit came with the dab cable. So I only need to replace the part between the dab adapter and the antenna. 
 

Now I think I want an amplifier and fitting all new speakers… there goes the money. 

[flash22]

Not a fan of 6x9's in general they are meh, they produce mid's and treble but due to placement and design they can cancel one another out, cone shape is another big factor is their design flaw

fine if you want noise, but as you mature you start to look for sound quality, not SPL (been there, done that and blown a sub or 2 and things got hot)

[flash22]

2 way Components in the front, 16.5 cm 2 way coaxial in the rear and a sub if required, simple but effective

most amps have speaker level in, oem integration is a big thing - in fact i was using line level adapters 20 odd years ago to wire in amps

Biggest upgrade will be sound deadening the doors and boot - a silent coat 2mm kit is about €30-40

[SjaakDeBeer]

I’ve just ordered the Pioneer GM-D1004. Since the head unit is from Pioneer I figured this should be the one, also cheaper then the alpine.  Was looking for such a solution for a long time. :-).

Do I need to pull new wires from the amplifier to the doorspeakers since there should be a filter for the current tweeter somewhere? Also any advice on a descent pair of Speakers for the front and back?

 

[Guest]

13 hours ago, SjaakDeBeer said:

@PetrolDave Got any pictures of the audio system in the MK1?

'fraid not, ex-SWMBO disapproved of all the mods (not just to the audio system) I did usually referring to my Mk1 as 'that poor little car' 🤪

[flash22]

Do not amplify the standard Speakers, you will kill the dear little things

Speakers - depends on your budget, there are so many brands on the market

for best results, i would put in new wiring from the speaker back to the amp and a fused 12v from the Battery to the amp

[SjaakDeBeer]

As far as I’ve seen the power from the head unit towards the amplifier should be enough if’s a minimum of 15 a. I’ll pull new wires from the Battery. 2.5 mm should be more then enough right?

As far as speakers… I’m not really familiar with the market. I’ve seen a pair of Alpine SPG-17CS for around 80 euros. Other options are Crunch GTI-6.2C,  JBL Stage3 607C. Think they all be fine. Premium brands that I know off are focal, kicker and Rockford. Think they will be to expensive for what I’m willing to pay. Got any pointers? For now I’m only looking for the front. 

[flash22]

Fronts - Pioneer TS-A1600C or Focal Auditor RSE-165

Rear - Pioneer G-Series TS-G1320F or Focal Auditor RCX-130

Sub - Pioneer TS-WX110A  or Pioneer TS-WX010A

 

[Puglet]

When upgraded/added Speakers to our 107 few years ago now, I ran new wires to front Speakers and left stock wiring unmolested, so I could replace original stereo/front Speakers if required.

When I added door speakers, I added a small amplifier and it was cost effective to buy an amplifier fitting kit, think I got Connects2 kit, as you got Battery wire+fuse holder, neg lead, rca lead, connectors etc. Just one issue was the blue trigger lead supplied was cr*p, very thin, so amp kept cutting in/out, but replaced that and all was well and still is. 

I also got a small Kenwood underseat subwoofer as well, for what it is it packs a decent punch. As mentioned probably OTT for the car but where's the fun in that! 

Just to add, at first I upgraded the standard front speakers and added rear speakers all running off the standard headunit for a good few years major improvement, but then had spare Kenwood headunit so fitted that and went a bit wild.