Sr Tuning And Styling Also Any For Sale

[Trav's EP91]

Shelly are those TRD seats or seat covers you have in your car, if there cover wher did you get them from?? 

I think those are headrest covers. my mate has some on his GT-4 but in black. search eBay for TRD parts. some guy in canada makes them

wyldeSR

If you are intrested, im trying to sell my Starlet SR. see my profile for all the mods, but i will NOT sell the seats with the car.

I want to sell it as I am trying to buy a EP82 GT turbo

I cant get pics on here until late next week but, if you pm me your mob no, i can send you the pics i made on my phone

[Firthy]

Trav why not turbo the starlet you have??

[starletsr]

Trav why not turbo the starlet you have??

Best having the real turbo car innit, a lot has to be done to make ur car turbo ££££££££££

[Firthy]

Trav why not turbo the starlet you have??

Best having the real turbo car innit, a lot has to be done to make ur car turbo ££££££££££

Suppose, but i wona turbo my own car that i have put so much TLC into :D and quite a bit of ££into already

[starletsr]

Well if you got the £££ then you can do anything :D

If i had the £££ to pay my insurance of a turbo car i would do the same lol.

[Firthy]

Also nothing against the old shape starlet i like but i prefer the EP91 shape and if you turbo the EP91, no one can tell and you can go around in stealth :D

[starletsr]

Agreed

[geocool69]

it iisnt realy that expensive to turbo your existing engine but you will be met with some compramise....

all the gubins form the 4e-fte will bolt straight onto your existing engine like manifold, ct9, ecu ect.

wicked ep will sell you everything you need to do this for around £450

now the problems you are faced with is the head is more restrictive and the internals are weaker...so it wouldent be advised if you wanted to make big power gains...

but some light boosting say 6-7psi should be more than adiquate for the car.

im planing on going down this rought with my 5e at some point in the future along with a thicker head gasket..uprated intercooler and mabe water injection just to stay on the safe side...

[crystalize]

You can charge the 4EFE motor but you'll have to take in consideration the weaker head, the weaker internals, and the high compression ratio. You can change the internals to forged pistons and stuff but the high compression ratio will be the problem.

You would be able to run safely a max of 6PSI at your full boost, I know this because I was about to charge my motor. But you have to be careful no to overboost you'd have to invest in a boost controller asap.Your 6PSI would be equalivent to a 9PSI or so on a Stock Glanza/GT Turbo.. which would be near their high boost setting which is like 9.5PSI, and their low is 6 or 6.5PSI.

But a charged high compression engine can't handle that much boost but if you run 6PSI It will run FAST AS Hell because of the compression and it will be equalivent to the Glanza or GT Turbo's 9Psi..

Just don't overboost, and change up as much internals as you possibily can and as geocool said you should upgrade the IC, I recommend a FMIC.

I've seen a few friends do this to their 4EFE'S already. I find it's easier to just change over the whole Tranny/engine and everthing. As you'll also be running a charged car on a standard 4EFE box.

P.S It'd be stealth to an extent, but If I see a SR, or a normal looking starlet come up behind me BLOWING OFF lol, I'd be ****ting myself. That's what I want to do with my car, engine swap.

[geocool69]

the the 4e and the 5e sould easily be able to handle boost up to 9psi... more if need be. they arnt that fragile as long as the engines in good nick and the car is set up right, fualing, boost and would need to be finley tuned ect.... the engine will be completely fine that goes for the fhe unit aswell.

the gearbox will easily be able to handle the extra grunt.

toyota made a wise move of making all e series gearboxes in a gineric way so you could easily thro some grunt at your standard 4e box its just as strong as a fte unit.

from a price point of view it is definatly cheaper installing the basic kit.

and cheaper still if you have the right contacts to fit it,

only half of £1500 needed to transplant a whole engine an tranny from a 4efte.

if you have big power gains in mind your better with the latter option.

we are all unanimus in the decision that a standard looking ep91 would make a great Q-car perfect for puttin the ****ts up quicker mechinery

[crystalize]

Yes, it can be charged guy.. but you'd have to change pistons, injectors, have to install fuel pressure regulator, and some kind of engine managment and then go and tune it properly.. that's alot of work and you need an experienced mecahnic to do that all of that.

You could then just move the turbo over and run it on stock internals at something like 5 and 6PSI and done with that..

[Firthy]

Right thats it, you guys are EVIL, iv always said i was gona turbo the starlet but i was thinking of not bothering because of the money involved and i wanted a sports coupe i.e. MR2, but insurance on a 2 is an absolute no no due to age and postcode etc, and now iv been reading this thread im thinking F :censor: K, so as soon as i get back off my jols, im saving like crazy and im just gona do it!!!

The dilema i have is, do i pay some one like fensport a fair bit of ££££ to do it and thats that, its done pretty quickly and they have alot of experience in doing that kinda work....

Or becuase my uncle is a ****HOT mechanic, do i buy the bits and MAKE him fit it, he's already hinted that he would be more than happy to do it, the only problem is, what do i need i.e. FULL shopping list, and im VERY IMPATIENT and id want it in and on the road A.S.A.P. (hence swaying more to the fensport option!!!!)

[starletsr]

Evil??! hehehe :ffs: <_<

[angle]

Also nothing against the old shape starlet i like but i prefer the EP91 shape and if you turbo the EP91, no one can tell and you can go around in stealth :D

Except for the bonnet vent etc...

[geocool69]

FIRTHY its relativily easy to bolt on the parts...

the tricky part is tuning the engine...

ull need to book the car in for a few rolling road sessions.

ill compile a list of everything needed when i get back tonight muker.

[Firthy]

Also nothing against the old shape starlet i like but i prefer the EP91 shape and if you turbo the EP91, no one can tell and you can go around in stealth   :D 

Except for the bonnet vent etc...

The standard EP91 doesnt have bonnet vent etc.

GEO if you could do that it would be a very big help, it looks like it might indefinately happen no peeps, i went down to my uncles last night to have a chat i told him about what was said on here and he would do it for me, i just need to supply him with as much info as possible so, if you guys can help would be very much appreciated. One of his main concerns is the manifold does anywork need doing to that??

Out of interest, i know it would be easier to call them but i thought id ask on here firts, on the fensport site they say they sell starlet import GT turbo engines, now is this the complete engine, including turbo and everything??

Would it be a straight swap??

Cheers in advance

[crystalize]

It would be a straight bolt on engine swap to a 4EFTE engine, in your enginebay. Most "complete" engines include turbo,gearbox, ecu everything..

Call and find out.

Off the top of my head You'll need the following:

CT9 Turbo (You can source a CT9A (EP82) or CT9B) the difference is that the latter is found in the Glanza, and has more fins so it can spool up faster.

Intercooler - You could get a hold of the orginal intercooler and top mount it, or you could use a front mounted one finding an intercooler wouldn't be a problem.

Blow off valve - This would definately nice to have, you could get a stock one or an aftermarket one.

Manifold - This could be from a Glanza or a custom bulit one

ECU - This would help.

Harness

Gearbox <-- Geo said this isn't needed by when people usually sell complete engines this is included, so if you do obtain it put it in.

You'd also need all the necessary piping and what not do all of this work.

You will definately need a boost controller weather it be digital or manual.I'd go with digital since you don't have to get out and pop your engine bay all the time you want to turn up the boost. You'll also need a Turbo timer. Injectors and forged pistons would help if you plan on running alot of boost.

Alternativly I'd purchase some form of engine management system something like Greedy E-manage and components.

That list is from the top of my head..

[Firthy]

Cheers crystalize,

will add that to the list of info.

[crystalize]

You might want to consider the disc brakes from a ep82 gt turbo or a Glanza you'll need some stopping power :) and don't forget suspension

[Firthy]

Yeah well i need to sort the suspension anyway, she sits too high :(

Yeah will def have to uprate the breaks

[geocool69]

alright firthy here we go

the front brakes on the glanza/gt turbo are the same as the ones on the front of your starlet so nothing to worry about there....

you can fit a rear axle off one of the cars mentioned above to obtain rear discs aswell.

i know of a company called STI that is working on a brake kit utilising celica twin pot gt calipers and discs....

on the engine crystalise has covered most parts of the engine but basicaly you have two options.............bare in mind that once you start modifying it is hard to stop.

the first one is less costly initaly but more so in the long term...

rape a 4efte engine of all the gubins needed to turbo your mota.

the kit would consist of turbo/ecu/manifold/cat pipe/tmic/piping/stock bov/injectors/fuel rail/oil lines/thermostat housing and other tid bits needed for installation like nuts..bolts etc etc.. this kit can be baught of a company called wicked ep for around $700usd which is about £450 and because the engine is virtualy the same all these parts should mate up with out a problem.

with this it would be advised to buy an electronic boost controler, boost gauge and a front mount intercooler...with all this gubbins hooked up and running you sould se around 140bhp which is an increase of 65bhp.... more than enough to keep your right foot happy and blast most hings off the road.

to expand on this kit for more power you really need to play it safe, buy modifications to stop the engine from blowing itself up as it wasnt desinged for boost in mind therefor has its limitations. crystalise covered this...

this is where it starts to get expensive because you have to open up the engine to fit the stronger parts...then reliability is an issue..and thats something i dont think you would apreceate but...

because of your contacts namely your uncle it could be feasable.

the second option which is easyer but more costly in the short term is

just to buy a front cut and just drop in a full 4efte and all the parts that come with it like gearbox, ecu, etc etc... the beauty of doing it this way is that it is alot more straight forward to extract more power from the beast that does not include actualy opening up the internals of the engine.

one thing that applys in both cases is the restrictive turbo...given the ct9's limitations 12psi is about the max for this..

like crystalise covered earlyer i would recomend on a tuning process which centers around making your starlet handle and stop better before doing anything else....

they dont handle the best out of the box but there is a welth of tuning products for your starlet to make them handle like proper go karts.

things like tie bars/strut braces/anti roll bars/bushes/anti lift and caster kits/coilovers and so on........

the good thing about doing this is that you can notice the difference after installing each mod individualy therefor apreceating your car and driving more

hope all of this info gets put to good use

[Spartan]

If you are buying a second hand engine, regardless of whether it's turbocharged or not I would rebuild it the moment you get it. You don't know the history of the unit, or the ancillaries. I also wouldnt see the point of fitting used drive shafts etc.

Obviously getting the gearbox rebuilt isnt an option, but rebuilding the engine, even if its just stripping the head and sump off would give you some piece of mind.

This becomes essential if you intend to increase the power output. If you want big power from the engine it will be easier replacing the pistons with quality forged components. Also look to repace various bolts with uprated items, con rod bolts come to mind but I'm not sure if anybody like ARP will make them for the 4E.

Replacing the gasket with a steel stoppered type would also be good for the increase in power. There are alot of things that need replacing in the quest for power.

Stuff like turbo timers should be avoided. Especially if money is a problem, that £100 could be better spent elsewhere. They are essentially for lazy people anyway, not too mention leaving the engine running while the vehicle unattended is illegal in the UK and that they may invalidate your alarms warrenty and also your insurance. Strange but true!

It all comes down to how much you want to spend. Just remember that most second hand engines will not come with a warrenty unless the seller rebuilt the engine. If you can't afford to uprate or don't want to, consider replacing the various gaskets with OE gaskets for some peice of mind. Buy an engine kit and do the lot. With the engine out the car it should be a relatively easy job.

Also when it comes to handling remember its an art form getting your car sorted, alot of lowering kits are naff, try to uprate your shocks at the same time, be wary playing with camber and castor. Remembering that upgrading front or rear ARB increase/decrease oversteer/understeer depending on size etc! Also remember (if its your daily driver) that you could turn your car into an uncomprising death trap, think hitting a pothole at 60mph on a corner with an incredible stiff setup. You could find yourself in a spot of bother. Hell I spun two 360's in a stock escort the other week when I hit a pot hole, was lucky I was on a wide road!

A little tinkering can make the car faster through the corners, and as the guys say uprating your brakes is a must. Best mods there you can do is replacing the pads with decent ones and replacing the flexy hoses with braided ones. Increased braking from the pads and no line expansion from the lines-sorted.

Grab yourself some books on Suspension and Handling from the libary or Amazon.co.uk, you would be surprised how much science is in setting up your motor! Don't listen to Max Power, where lowering your suspension till its 1" off the ground and fitting huge wheels makes your car the mutts nutts. Chances are it will increase negative camber way too much, burn out your nice new tyres much quicker and have you tramlining into a !Removed!! And not the short haired kind either!

Whatever happens, this sort of modifications is expensive. Expect to pay more than the listed price. As problems can occur anytime. Expect the best but prepare for the worst!

[geocool69]

u sound old before your time mate...but wize words none the less...

i dont plan on rebuilding my engine once i get....its not realy needed....

abit of carful planing before hand will reap rewards in the future tho.

this situation is simple to get around realy.... dont buy it off that dodgy mechanic whos promising the earth....

instead pic that happy geeza with the colgate smile who is a reputable engine supplier.... his customers think the sun shines out of his spinkter. simple tinking realy.

but anything to do with modifying is a lottery....

i have smoothed all the locks off my car......

left the side lights on this morning... came back to the car tonight after work with the alarm wimpering away like an abused owl....battery was flat....

had to tan the rear window to open the bonnet to charge that Battery such a night mare...

anyone have a clue how much a rear passenger three quater window is?????

[crystalize]

Good points mentioned all around the board. All though I don't agree about the turbo timer, I would think he should invest in one so the turbo has time to cool down before he shuts down the motor to be on the safe side.

I am sure he can get one cheap from a stock gt turbo they aren't that expensive. As Geo indicated you need to work on suspension and braking from the start if you have all the go and no handling it makes no sense.

I'd personally go with th engine swap setup it's straight forward and easy. That's enough power right there.. when you get bored of that increase the turbo to a T3 or CT12 depending on you, obtain a front mount intercooler, fuel pressure regulator, the only issue is money.

But like Geo said, if the mecahnic is your Uncle this shoudn't be too expensive as you won't be paying full price for labour :).

Leave the same rims you have on, buy a coil over kit or obtain some good Koni shocks, I'd recommend Koni Yellow, bundle them with some TRD lowering springs and drop about an 1nch or so and your set..

A engine rebuld is always good.. You could consider blueprinting, changing all the belts and everything depending on your costs guy.

[Firthy]

Cheers peeps, very good advice, damn impressed to be honest.

Im sure that with all this info me and my uncle can create a little monster :D

But like you say its not all about the power, i definatelty need to sort the suspension out because at the moment its like a wet fish, there's shed loads of body roll, and it sits like a tractor, so the handling is okay for what it is at the moment but wont cope with more power!!

An i think that if i go for the engine swap the standard turbo will be more than suffient, as i dont wont to end up in an early coffin, so gettin used to that extra power and learning how to handle it first before going power crazy!!!

But again thanks for the sound advice, i will chat to my uncle this weekend and hopefully set the ball rolling when i get back from BIRD INFESTED IBIZA!!!!! :D

Sorry not trying to rub it in or owt :P :D