EFI Fuse on my Compressor keeps blowing

[alexcbx]

Hey Guys,

I hope that you can help.
My Comp broke down about 6 weeks ago and I've been trying to fix this problem with no success.

I was driving along 20-30 MPH and the engine just cut-out. (No warning lights, on the dash)
I checked the fuses and fuse number 6 (EFI 20 amps) had blown.
I replaced the fuse, started the motor and as soon as I tried to pull away the fuse popped again.
This happened 4 times. So I called the AA.

AA mechanic turned-up said that it sounds like the fuel pump is on it's way out as there are no fault codes coming up on his diagnostics.

So far, I've replaced the fuel pump and the S/C relay.
I've checked all the wiring and the S/C wiring and it does the same... runs for about 10-15 seconds and when the S/C kicks-in, the fuse pops.

I know that a few Comp owners have had this problem, but don't know if anyone ever fixed it.

 

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Not idea of the exact specs for the TS, but on the standard Corolla the EFI fuse is 15A.

Does the lid of your fuse box specify its value ? wonder if 20A was fitted to overcome the early problem.

According to the 1.6 handbook , the EFI fuse controls the whole Mulitpoint injection system, cruise control and the clock, so seems many other things could be shorting out within a few seconds of being powered.  

Not sure what the " S/C " part is, a TS function only ??    but whatever it is, cannot you power it directly and check  the current draw to confirm it actually is that part faulty?

 

[alexcbx]

59 minutes ago, oldcodger said:

Hi,

Not idea of the exact specs for the TS, but on the standard Corolla the EFI fuse is 15A.

Does the lid of your fuse box specify its value ? wonder if 20A was fitted to overcome the early problem.

According to the 1.6 handbook , the EFI fuse controls the whole Mulitpoint injection system, cruise control and the clock, so seems many other things could be shorting out within a few seconds of being powered.  

Not sure what the " S/C " part is, a TS function only ??    but whatever it is, cannot you power it directly and check  the current draw to confirm it actually is that part faulty?

 

Hi oldcodger,

Thanks for your reply.

My TS is a Compressor model.......Compressor as in supercharger (S/C).
Supercharger works fine and draws 10amps once the clutch engages. It just blows the 20amp EFI fuse after about 10-15 seconds.
The Compressor models uses a 20amp EFI fuse as standard.
On mine the EFI fuse protects the fuel pump, IAC valve, EGR valve, Vapor pressure Sensor, Evap Solenoid, ECM

As I asked, I know that a few Comp owners have had this problem, but don't know if anyone ever fixed it. But thanks for your response 🙂 

[Aamir2892]

On 9/12/2019 at 6:43 PM, alexcbx said:

Hi oldcodger,

Thanks for your reply.

My TS is a Compressor model.......Compressor as in supercharger (S/C).
Supercharger works fine and draws 10amps once the clutch engages. It just blows the 20amp EFI fuse after about 10-15 seconds.
The Compressor models uses a 20amp EFI fuse as standard.
On mine the EFI fuse protects the fuel pump, IAC valve, EGR valve, Vapor pressure Sensor, Evap Solenoid, ECM

As I asked, I know that a few Comp owners have had this problem, but don't know if anyone ever fixed it. But thanks for your response 🙂 

10 Amps is too high for the supercharger clutch, I measured 3.5ish amps or so when I fitted a ground side switch and measured both sides of the S/C clutch input. It tends to drop when it warms up also. I suspect the clutch is the issue.

[alexcbx]

Thank you Aamir2892

I’ve ordered a new compressor clutch from Volvo 👍

[Aamir2892]

48 minutes ago, alexcbx said:

Thank you Aamir2892

I’ve ordered a new compressor clutch from Volvo 👍

Do Volvo sell a clutch similar to the Ogura one? What do they use it for, is it just the clutch part or the whole pulley?

Keep us updated and some pictures would be great!

[alexcbx]

Here is what the Comp boys have said.....

"You'll need a clutch kit from a Volvo Kad44 engine or kad42. I fitted one of these to my compressor had no problems with it. You won't get one Toyota as they only sell the complete compressor"

https://www.yachtboatparts.com/supercharger-kompressor-compressor-clutch-repair-assembly-3581724-replaces-old-nos-3581062-860786-8066-p.asp?fbclid=IwAR04GhdqqPTxprsefvVM0_GD8puTHdS7FttV8jXB1CMbERUjnCJR6ReIvpA

I'll post some pictures when I get the kit and start the work 🙂

[alexcbx]

Got the clutch kit today. £350.00 delivered
Installing it tomorrow.....I'll post the pictures after the job is done

[alexcbx]

Hey Aamir,
This is a long shot......
Do you know what the part number is for the v-belt, on the Compressor?

[Aamir2892]

On 9/20/2019 at 1:39 AM, alexcbx said:

Hey Aamir,
This is a long shot......
Do you know what the part number is for the v-belt, on the Compressor?

On my Comp belt is 6PK 2040. All pulleys standard. 

Can’t really tell from the pictures, does that kit contains everything including a pulley? Standard Comp pulley is 100mm iirc.

[alexcbx]

On 9/21/2019 at 1:38 PM, Aamir2892 said:

On my Comp belt is 6PK 2040. All pulleys standard. 

Can’t really tell from the pictures, does that kit contains everything including a pulley? Standard Comp pulley is 100mm iirc.

Hi Aamir,
The kit comes complete with a pulley... In fact, every new part is identical to what I pulled off my charger.

Replacing the clutch was a very simple job..... 45 mins max.
Getting the S/C off the car was not so...It's a 2 person job!

Anyone wanting to do the same, I would advise to raise the front of the car, about 1 foot and taking the bumper and undertray off, before you start any work, as there is no way that the bolts at the bottom, towards the rear of the charger, can be reached unless you're under the car.
Also, whilst the charger is off do check your VVT OCV filter as you won't be able to get to it when S/C is bolted to the engine. The filter is behind the charger...It's impossible to get to!

The car runs really smoothly now. We checked how many amps the charger was taking-in... 3.5amps when cold......2amps when hot.
Before I fixed it my charger was taking 10amps!!
In fact, it was your message, Aamir, telling me that your S/C was drawing 3.5amps that pointed me in the (right) direction and buy a new clutch..... Thank you for that advice 🙂

I'm going to post some pictures that I took whilst replacing the clutch... Sorry if the quality of the photo's are cra....

[alexcbx]

Charger off the car. Undo 10mm bolt and with a puller and take the flange and pulley off.
Don't forget to remove the circlips first.


f

[alexcbx]

Once the pulley is off, there's another circlip. Remove the circlip to take the electric magnetic coil off.
This is the part that failed on my S/C

[alexcbx]

Don't lose those washers

[alexcbx]

Clean-up and prepair for the new parts

[alexcbx]

Install new magnetic coil, circlip and replace those little washers.. They're there for the "Air-Gap'"

[alexcbx]

Install the clutch/pulley and another new circlip

[alexcbx]

Fit the flange/plate, 10mm bolt and to tighten to 13.7 ft.lbs

Now check the 'air gap' using a feeler gauge.
The gap should be 035 - 0.7 mm
To adjust the gap, those little washers, in my 3rd picture, are used as shims.
Add or remove the shims/washers to get the correct 'air gap'

[alexcbx]

I think these instructions explain the job better!!

[alexcbx]

Put the S/C back in the car and it's ready for another thrashing 🙂 🙂

[Aamir2892]

On 9/22/2019 at 7:27 PM, alexcbx said:

In fact, it was your message, Aamir, telling me that your S/C was drawing 3.5amps that pointed me in the (right) direction and buy a new clutch..... Thank you for that advice 🙂

No problem, I am glad I could help and you also helped me to help someone else! I would rather see Compressors still on the road than scrap because parts such as pulleys etc are very difficult to come by. I didn't even know someone else sells similar electromagnetic clutch assembly with the same diameter pulley, defiantly good to know for the future. I have a friend on FB who's clutch and pulley bearing are shot, hes been trying to get another pulley with no luck for a long time. I will defiantly point him towards this. Thanks for the pictures also.

How did you manage to incorporate the wiring into the existing male connector?

[alexcbx]

I think that the new parts are actually made by Ogura. They’ve got the same part numbers and there’s a identical Ogura sticker is on the new pulley

>How did you manage to incorporate the wiring into the existing male connector?<

I cut, spliced, soldered and then used heatshrink shielding.... It was one of the easier jobs

 

[Aamir2892]

3 hours ago, alexcbx said:

I think that the new parts are actually made by Ogura. They’ve got the same part numbers and there’s a identical Ogura sticker is on the new pulley

LOL, i have just had a closer look at the pic of the new clutch you posted 😄 interesting to see. Lucky you came across it and that it works just as well as the original!

 

[alexcbx]

25 minutes ago, Aamir2892 said:

LOL, i have just had a closer look at the pic of the new clutch you posted 😄 interesting to see. Lucky you came across it and that it works just as well as the original!

 

I was very lucky....
But, to be truthful, I didn't find the link!
One of the boys on the 'Corolla Club UK' group, on Facebook, pointed it out to me.

Just a little note:
This fault has happened to 5 Compressor owners, in Europe and the UK, over the past 2 months!!

[Aamir2892]

On 9/25/2019 at 6:02 PM, alexcbx said:

I was very lucky....
But, to be truthful, I didn't find the link!
One of the boys on the 'Corolla Club UK' group, on Facebook, pointed it out to me.

Very surprised, the Comp parts sharing and help is almost non-existent on that page just like its actual forum. Glad its fixed and another Comp is still on the road!