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Stay tuned for suspension rebuild ST202


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Hi guys, i finally bought a celica and i'm really happy with it. My first plans for it were to rebuild the suspension. Just waiting for a few more bits to arrive and finding more info on the extent of the job i thought some people on here might appreciate having a look at how it went along. 

 

 

parts2.jpg

control arms2.jpg

front axle ball joint.jpg

front axle.jpg

control arms.jpg

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front axle 2.jpg

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anti rb mounts.jpg

anti roll bar mounts.jpg

anti roll bar mounts2.jpg

bushings control arm.jpg

rear axle.jpg

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I bought a pair of front and rear top mounts and have realised they did not include bearings. Since the rear strut assembly on my car at the moment involves coilovers i don't have anything to reference from. I also need to pick up all the rubbers that go alongside this for the rear assembly.

 

Are there any aftermarket bearings and shock rubbers i can buy?

 

Just waiting on my bushings to arrive as well as some bearings now before i can start my job 

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Hi James.

Slightly off subject I know but may I suggest you buy/fit genuine Toyota oil filters. 

I used to have a very nice Celica, only covered about 30,000 miles, anyway I was in Halfords and I bought a couple from there. 

The parts man assured me they were the correct one (s) for the car buy, same thread, seal diameter etc and yes they fitted.

Anyway where I am getting to is they didn't have non return valves in them so it allowed the oil in the filter to empty into the engine so the big ends used to rattle on start up.

At the time I hadn't made the connection and I believed the engine had developed an expensive fault so I traded it in.

As soon as a genuine Toyota oil filter was fitted the engine was silent so I exchanged a car believing the engine was faulty but the source of the problem was the non genuine Toyota oil filter which cured the problem.

Good luck with the Celica.

Regards, Mike.

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Thanks for your comment. I will definitely take that into consideration. Are they available to buy directly from Toyota or can i buy them from a different provider, but with the correct part number etc?

 

I haven't started yet, but i'll be sure to compare parts once i starting removing the old components. I'm hoping everything i have bought can be installed but if i have made anymore mistakes , they can just be sent back. Already made one of those with the strut mounts.

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Hi James.

There is a man on this site that works for a Toyota main dealer, the dealership is called Lindop. He has a couple of nicknames, The Parts King, Kingo but his real name is John Devlin and the dealership phone numbers is 01978 720074. Just phone it up, ask for him by his real name, give him your reg. number and all being well he can post what you want to you at a discounted price including postage.

You can say I gave you his details.

Good luck, Mike.

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You couldn't have been more helpful thanks. Whilst i have you here, any ideas on where i can find some documentation/diagrams/guides. Anywhere i can read up on torque specifications as well? I'd love to read some more info on the car

 

Thanks Mike 

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Hi James.

Your appreciation is noted.

For the info you are seeking there are always Haynes manuals but if you want official Toyota computer downloads two people on here come to mind that can help you with the appropriate links as they are management, Frostyballs and Devon Aygo.

You can message them on this thread, private message them, or perhaps they will reply to you on this thread?

Incidentally looking at your photo's you have one of a rusty piece of plate metal. If it is close to the exhaust then it is most likely a heat shield, they are always rusting off on older Toyota's and can be expensive to replace. Personally I would either make one, secure it better with repair washers, extra wide ones, or take it off and throw it away.

Regards, Mike.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone have some advice removing these seized ABS without damaging. I already accidentally broke the harness that mounts into the hub, I'd prefer not to damage the abs wire.

Any issue with buying an aftermarket abs line if I have no choice but to drill it/force it out?

 

 

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Probably worth replacing my wheel bearings now since I've made it to the wheel hub.

Still need to cut the roll bar link on the passenger side front, so I can release the control arm and replace these bushings.

Drivers side front I am yet to start. Still need to remove the axle nut etc

At the back I've managed to take off a few control arm bolts, though I didn't realise I would have to drop the fuel tank to actually remove them from the car. Instead I'm going to cut through the bolt and then install the bolt the reverse way to avoid the tank entirely.

Still have the trailing arms to get off and the rear calipers.

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Called TCBPARTS and he had suggested that I could drop the subframe to remove the bolts as an alternative. I don't know if it's any easier than dropping the fuel tank but I'll have a look and see 😂

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  • 4 weeks later...

I dropped the subframe and the rear suspension is completely gutted. My general day to day motivation has been pretty low which has effected my progress on the car, but i'll update with some pics when i find the time.

Currently determining which parts can be re-used and what needs to be bought. For those that are in a similar position as myself with ABS wires, i found a thread on a sister forum '  http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=80199  ' A user had transferred front sensors from a camry and had success with it, something i'm curious to explore myself but with the rear axle too. 

 

 

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  • 5 months later...
On 11/18/2019 at 8:26 PM, Crawforddd said:

I dropped the subframe and the rear suspension is completely gutted. My general day to day motivation has been pretty low which has effected my progress on the car, but i'll update with some pics when i find the time.

Currently determining which parts can be re-used and what needs to be bought. For those that are in a similar position as myself with ABS wires, i found a thread on a sister forum '  http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=80199  ' A user had transferred front sensors from a camry and had success with it, something i'm curious to explore myself but with the rear axle too. 

Im currently trying the same thing and it’s a nightmare as it’s all Original and been sat for years! Is there anyway I can contact you regarding yours for tips and tricks?

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/3/2020 at 9:38 PM, ST202 Oliver said:

Im currently trying the same thing and it’s a nightmare as it’s all Original and been sat for years! Is there anyway I can contact you regarding yours for tips and tricks?

It's pretty rough you're right. What in particular are you currently having difficulties with? Maybe i can offer some assistance. 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, I'm looking to do the same thing to my celica, are you able to do a video on what you removed and the troubles you came across... I've looked everywhere on you tube and nobody has done anything like it. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 7/29/2020 at 11:05 AM, Neil1982 said:

Hi, I'm looking to do the same thing to my celica, are you able to do a video on what you removed and the troubles you came across... I've looked everywhere on you tube and nobody has done anything like it. 

I have just totally stripped and rebuild the back end on mine, all the way from the Cat backwards. Every part has either been blasted and repainted or new parts. The biggest problems I came up with were removing the through bolt on the rear struts to the No.1 & No.2 arms. Don't be tempted to cut the arms as the front solid arm is no longer available so you will end up chasing after one. The other major problem is the disc dust covers. The will be rotten and you cannot change them individually. I removed them from the hub, ground the spot welds, refurbished the handbrake system and modified later dust covers to fit and weld. It was a little tricky but the cost is around £30-£40 for the covers as apposed to £200 EACH for new units. Rear subframes tend to be rusty, Easiest thing is to get them blasted, dipped and powder coated. Usually £30 odd quid so cheap enough. I have a spare so had both done at the same time! 

20200518_184428.jpg

20200518_184440.jpg

20200423_132827.jpg

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  • 6 months later...
On 9/10/2020 at 4:02 PM, Pete1967 said:

I have just totally stripped and rebuild the back end on mine, all the way from the Cat backwards. Every part has either been blasted and repainted or new parts. The biggest problems I came up with were removing the through bolt on the rear struts to the No.1 & No.2 arms. Don't be tempted to cut the arms as the front solid arm is no longer available so you will end up chasing after one. The other major problem is the disc dust covers. The will be rotten and you cannot change them individually. I removed them from the hub, ground the spot welds, refurbished the handbrake system and modified later dust covers to fit and weld. It was a little tricky but the cost is around £30-£40 for the covers as apposed to £200 EACH for new units. Rear subframes tend to be rusty, Easiest thing is to get them blasted, dipped and powder coated. Usually £30 odd quid so cheap enough. I have a spare so had both done at the same time! 

20200518_184428.jpg

20200518_184440.jpg

20200423_132827.jpg

How did you refurbish your control arms?  I'm having a hard time finding bushings or new arms. 

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3 hours ago, Jgamelin said:

How did you refurbish your control arms?  I'm having a hard time finding bushings or new arms. 

G4Play is a good provider, I have just checked their website but they seem to be out of stock for the arms at the moment. Keep looking i'm sure you will come across something. Alternatively you could buy a purchase a set of hardrace control arms, they will set you back 200+ though. 

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