Auris Loss of Power

[Dimitroff]

Hello all, I have Auris 1.33, 2009, 41000m on the clock.

Recently started loosing power while driving, it just dying. Pressing the acceleration but nothing and sudd6 it wakes up. There no any mistakes in the system, no misfire nothing. Just brought it back from the garage and they can't find the fault. The only think they and I think is about the pressure in the tank as before when I was opening the fuel cap used to make this noise like opening bottle of fizzy drink and after last tank top up it stopped making it.

The only thing left to do is give the car in Toyota and let them fix it.

Any suggestions guys?

Thanks

[Mooly]

Try an ECU reset by disconnecting the Battery negative lead for a few minutes. Do this with the engine cold and then when you restart allow the engine to idle for a couple of minutes before driving. The pressure in the tank seems variable as sometimes I notice it and other times not.

A reset has to be worth a try before going into heavy diagnostics.

 

[Dimitroff]

Thanks, I will try this.

[Dimitroff]

The car finally died this morning with engine check light . Mistake number P2127.

Google says something about throttle sensor, position . Problem is it happened at work now I have to fix it so I can take the car home.

Is it hard to replace any ideas?

[Mooly]

I think they are very easy to replace (couple of screws and a connector) but what I don't know is whether they are 'plug and play' or whether any calibration is needed. 

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23407/how-to-trigger-an-idle-throttle-position-re-learn

  

[furtula]

Do you have diagnostics to perform test on the pedal?

Check the link below

https://www.autocats.ws/manual/toyota/auris_corolla_zze-zr-nde-ade/rm04f0e/repair2/html/frame_rm000000pfy03jx.html

[Dimitroff]

No I don't have the diagnosistics.

But I think won't be giving this mistake if is the pedal. This model is been for pedal recall.

I looked at the unit and is one whole piece. There is no way the sensor can be replaced. No screws holding the sensor but revets.

Toyota says the same is one whole unit and they are asking for 900+ to replace!

Need to find it cheaper.

[TonyHSD]

Hi, 

sometimes when you have dirty throttle body valve can throw you a fault code connected to the throttle position on the accelerator pedal , if you never had body cleaned it’s worth trying this first before you go the expensive way replacing the pedal. Don’t forget to disconnect negative terminal of the Battery before start any work on and to connect it After you clean the body.  Start the car and let the engine run for a least 10 min without any power consumption ON or driving. First few days may behaving wired but will settle afterwards and no more trouble. Clean the sensor that seats next to the body on the intake manifold and check or change the air filter if needed. 

You can watch this guy videos how to or similar on you tube before you work, use only specifically made throttle body spray and not a brake cleaner. Good luck 

 

[Dimitroff]

Thanks all for the help,

I left it with the mechanic, as was very hard to drive.

He already took the throttle body off and gave me the part number to look for it as they are very expressive.

Really frustrated, I know the car is been for pedal recall and is been replaced, as well the mistake P2127 comes different in the different web sites, some say is throttle position is wrong and some says is pedal, but the mechanic already focus on the throttle which will be very costly about 1000£

[TonyHSD]

Throttle body rarely goes bad , all they need most of the time is just cleaning. Tell you mechanic to clean it first properly, clean the maf sensor and reconnect the Battery. Try that way first and see how it’s going, if problem persists then you can keep looking for a solution. Your car loose power because goes into safety mode, limb home mode, don’t worry about it. Clean it and try , if not you can buy used one from scrap yard or eBay . 

Regards 

[mrfixer]

P2127 should relate to the accelerator pedal position sensor. The ECU is not receiving a signal or the signal is implausible.. Check the wiring to the sensor connector etc.

If you have Toyota Techstream you should be able to monitor the signal.

[Dimitroff]

Looks like need to have word with my mechanic as he already took the throttle body off.

I don't have Toyota Techstream, I have maxgate or something like that and is giving live stream and was whatching the throttle position listed as TP in that device but did not understand it was moving the percentage as I was Pressing the pedal between 18% to 80%. But as I said did not understand most of the info thats why took it the mechanic and first thing he took off is the throttle body. Not sure he even did the diagnosistics

Will go Monday to speak with him.

Thank you everyone!

 

[furtula]

Techstream cable is like 10-15 GBP, but you need a laptop for it.

Toyota also calls it inteligent tester, if you check the link i left you above with the codes, and some instructions for the fix, you will notice it's used a lot.

Also as said above, first thing they said was to connect to live feed and test the pedal.

[Dimitroff]

So guys just replaced the pedal.

Only place to find is Toyota 159£.

Car feel different to drive hopefully will stay like that.

Changed the pedal as the mistake according to Google is pedal sensor fault, throttle body should be different mistake.

I guess Toyota is not what used to be as this is the third pedal for this car.

First is been sticking so Toyota replaced it, second broke and now the third and the car is only 41000miles.

There is new recall from Toyota which I have to go next month some suction fuel plate .

As well the car is been for master windows switch, airbag inflator.

Guess this is my last Toyota!

Thanks everyone for the support.

 

[yossarian247]

Annoying to have to spend £159 on a pedal, particularly when its been replaced before, but this is not a common fault. No consolation in that perhaps..

As for recalls, I can never see why people slate Toyota for this. All credit to them, they have discovered faults with cars which are in some cases way over ten years old and are voluntarily fixing them at no cost to the owner. I'll quite happily sit and drink their coffee for free whilst they replace random parts of my car at their expense! When I previously owned Peugeots and VWs I can think of numerous faults which their cars should have been recalled for, but their attitude was generally that once the car was out of warranty they couldn't give a toss.

[Dimitroff]

Update

, even I change the pedal I drove all day and the car still losses power.

Next thing is throttle body but I think to wait for ECU to tell me.

I don't know if this fuel suction plate is not playing up so fuel tank pressure drop from time to time.

 

 

 

[Dimitroff]

Hello all

It has been nearly 9 months since my issue with Auris started.

Not long after I was very desperate with this loss of power, problem disappeared after I replaced the Battery.

Reason for replacing was Start/Stop system stopped working.

So after replacing the Battery problem with loss of power disappeared until now.

Last week I went on 3 hour drive and came again, not very nice doing 70 and have to start dropping gears as the engine is dying.

No engine check light nothing, no misfires.

Not sure what to do next as even I go for diagnostic there no mistake stored in the system. Oh I forgot, car is been to two separate garages both done their diagnostic but while they been driving car did not loose power and diagnostic did not show anything.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Mooly]

I'm afraid I've nothing more I can add apart from you saying that replacing the Battery seemed to 'fix' the issue as it has been fine for 9 months. Things like that set alarm bells ringing because it has to be related  in some way to the issue. Did the new Battery 'fix' the issue or was it a more extended disconnect of the supply that reset the ECU.

I can't help but wonder if this issue is similar to one I experience (and continue to experience) since I first got the car 10.5 years ago. Every 9 to 15 months or so (and this first happened when it was less than 18 months old) I experience a weird 'hunting' at speed that could be taken for a loss of power I suppose. If I try and maintain a steady speed it feels like the brakes are almost imperceptibly being applied gently and then released. The speedo shows no variation in speed but it can be 'sensed'. This is rhythmic over 4 or 5 seconds and ever present when it goes into this state... but it's subtle and not very noticeable at lower speeds.

10.5 years on and I still have the issue and in my case an ECU reset does fix it and the difference is then very noticeable, in other words you get a bit accustomed to the loss of performance that had occurred previously.

I'm going to suggest you try a reset again. Disconnect just the negative lead and tuck it out of the way and leave it for 30 minutes or so. Also while the lead is disconnected just press the brake pedal once. This will connect the brake lights across the (disconnected) supply and ensure any residual charge is discharged.

When you reconnect the Battery do it decisively pushing the negative terminal fully home and while keeping pressure on the terminal lightly tighten the clamp. Do not overtighten.

Then test it. 

[Dimitroff]

Hello Molly,

I have reset the ECU many times, the results are different, sometimes problem the occur straight away sometimes in few days.

I started looking into the mistake came from the ECU when occur first time 9 months ago, and one of the description was "accelerator pedal position switch E-low input".

None of this was strange to my mechanic so we change the pedal, but now reading it I think was mistake.

I have after market cruise control installed to the car.

Very simple installation but for the cruise to control the throttle there is special harness which splits the harness which goes to the pedal into two harnesses. One goes to the cruise and one to the pedal. I was thinking if that E-low bit could be low electricity, voltage as I did not know how this pedals work but after knowing occur to me that maybe because of this split harness voltage may get lost as is only micro voltage.

I disconnected the harness and plugged it directly to the pedal. I drove only for 10-15 min around the block, seams OK but trying not to rush with conclusion as sometimes takes longer for the problem to occur.

Will monitor and update in future.

Thanks.

[Mooly]

Interesting, thanks for the update. I'd probably have to say 'all bets are off' once an aftermarket device has been fitted to something mission critical like a pedal and ECU unless it were a manufacturer approved fitment. I'm not saying that as a cop out, I'm an electronics engineer and so I can visualise all the things that can go wrong when you try and design and add something to a system to externally modify the way it works.

Its a bit like changing a line of code in computer file or program or changing something like a registry key and thinking it has fixed an issue when in fact it causes another problem with something apparently unrelated because of  some unknown interdependency.

All you can do is test it now its back to original configuration.