2004 Yaris Verso water pump removal

[Yarso]

Please can someone help me out with some guidance on removing the water pump from a 2004 1.3 petrol VVT-I Yaris Verso? I suspect that the Yaris Verso and the Yaris are the same in this respect, as I ~think~ the chassis structure is identical?

I can get the pulley off and the bolts out, but it won't come out between the engine and the edge of the engine bay! Perhaps I haven't tried every possible orientation, but it seems as though it simply won't come out downwards - is it necessary to remove the alternator and wangle it out upwards? Do the two studs (it's fixed with 3 bolts and two nuts on studs) have to be removed, and if so, do you need a Torx socket set to get the studs out (I've only got Torx bits, not sockets)?

The ends of each stud look like a Torx bit, but I'm not certain of the pattern (having owned VW's where they use fixings that look like Torx but are not!).

TIA!

[Madasafish]

Chassis is identical.

 

I refer to Haynes. jack up car front: axle stands

Remove driver's side engine lower cover..

Loosen pulley bolts 

Remove drivebelt

Remove water pump pulley

Remove water pump  (3 bolts and two nuts) and remove water pump.

 

 

 

 

[flash22]

The mk1 and mk2 are the same layout, have a look on YouTube, what engine do you have ? if the alternator is at the front - remove the alternator and the pump comes up

[Yarso]

Madasafish - that's exactly what I did (except I drained the coolant first!) but it won't come out that way.

Flash - thanks. It's the 1.3 petrol VVTI. Good to hear it will go that way - it's very hard to tell visually whether it will or not. I was fearing that I might have to loosen the engine mounts and raise or lower the engine!

[flash22]

It's a support the engine and remove the mount job if done to the book

[Yarso]

47 minutes ago, flash22 said:

It's a support the engine and remove the mount job if done to the book

Do they say whether to remove the mount and drop the engine, or raise the engine? I would imagine the former, but the pump sits right beside the "chassis rail" (for want of a better term) so either would probably work. Though I suspect something else would foul (e.g. the exhaust) before you could raise it high enough.

I'll try it "not to the book" first.

[Yarso]

Well, seems like the book is correct. Even with the alternator out, it won't clear the o/s chassis member. It's almost as though the Japanese designers calculated the length of the inner shaft so that it would always look as though it might come out, but never actually would...

Do you reckon it will be Ok to remove just the o/s mount (with engine supported, of course) and lower just that end? I'm a bit anxious about that because it's going to have to come down at least an inch, and that seems like an awful lot of sideways twisting.

Though the car isn't worth much, I don't want to break it in the process of replacing a water pump that probably would have gone on OK for thousands more miles...

[Yarso]

Removing the 3 bolts on the o/s engine mount and dropping it about 30mm on that side seems to do the trick - the pump came out successfully, and no unexpected noises of things breaking as the engine came down. Just got to get some fresh Hylomar tomorrow (yeah I know, it's probably designed to go in "dry", but Hylomar will do no harm) and then whack the new one in.

[flash22]

good to hear you got/getting it done, you could have jacked the block upwards and removed it from the top

Now if you want a car with no thought of any maintenance try a bmw Mini

[Yarso]

Fortunately never owned a BMW Mini!

Do you happen to know if there's any special procedure to filling/bleeding the coolant on the 1.3 VVT-i? I've owned a few cars where there's a bleed screw hidden away somewhere, or some other strange procedure (e.g. an old Renault Trafic where you had to unship the coolant reservoir and hang it up from the raised bonnet!) but hopefully that's rare these days...

[flash22]

If there is no bleed, just burp the system with the heater on full hot and run it up to temp until the stat opens

 

That's not rare it's just a Renault thing (played with my far share of 1.5 and 1.9 DCI's)

[Madasafish]

You can speed up the burping if you squeeze the lower rubber hose to the radiator and then the upper one.. engine off and radiator cap off..

[Yarso]

Thanks - off to do some burping.

[Yarso]

That seemed to go Ok, though I'm sure I've not put as much coolant back in as came out!

One further query - as it stands the alternator drive belt has been re-tightened to give about 9mm finger deflection on the longest run - is that enough or should it be tighter? The alternator is further in than the old (original 15 year old!) one, but I think they do stretch a little with time. I forgot to compare old and new side by side, unfortunately.

[Madasafish]

Haynes shows several options : These are  for a NEW belt

Electric power steering: 4.5 to 5.5mm

Hydraulic power steering: 8.5 to 10.5mm

 

 

 

 

[Yarso]

Ah thanks - it's hydraulic so I think I may have overdone it then! It's running Ok now but I'd better ease it back a bit. I mangled the lower alt bolt head, so I'fl reset it when I replace the bolt.

Thanks again for your help!

[flash22]

A new belt will bed in over the next 500-1000 miles just nip it as needs be, it's been a few years since i had to adjust a belt manually tbh

[Madasafish]

16 hours ago, flash22 said:

A new belt will bed in over the next 500-1000 miles just nip it as needs be, it's been a few years since i had to adjust a belt manually tbh

Never adjusted the one in our Yaris D4D in 13 years of ownership..(it is exceptionally wide and deep)