Window Regulator Replacement

[jase4243]

Hi.  After nearly 5 years of ownership I have had my first major mechanical problem with my IQ. It seems that my drivers side window regulator has broken (sounds like the cable snapped, so window now held up with tape!).  

Has anyone had any experience replacing the window regulator?  I have ordered the part from Eurocarparts (£68), but there is no Haynes manual, online guide (that I can find) or You Tube tutorial.  I have had the door card off previously for a minor issue with the central locking, so I know I can get access.  Just hoping it is fairly straightforward.

Thanks in advance. 

[jase4243]

Ok, so I had to go solo on this; no instructions or You Tube help. New part from Eurocarparts was a slightly different design, but fitting was quite straightforward.  A lot cheaper that from Mr T (£304 for parts alone) and took about an hour, all told.  Once door card off, plastic sheet peeled back, window detached and old parts un-bolted, it was just a case of transplanting the motor (3 screws) and fitting new part using same mounting points.

Had to reprogram the control (hold up button for 5 seconds once shut, then hold down button for 4 seconds once down).  Now all is well and functioning again. Job done! 

[dave hendy]

How much was the new part?

 

Well done for doing it yourself!!

[jase4243]

Cheers Dave.  Part from Eurocarparts was £68.  Fitting straightforward, just a little fiddly.  Feeling quite proud of myself. 🙂

[Wojto]

Hello Jason - my window regulator has just gone too.  It's been an amazing little car but the quote was £460 to include VAT at our local garage.  You say the design was different - and this is what I've found having searched.  Do you have any tips for changing it please with this design as I don't see how the top 'frame' can be fitted at the top to the glass and how it will fit to the bottom of the door. I am mechanically minded and can turn my hands to most things but don't want to order it and not be able to fit it of course .... Many thanks. Wojtek

[dash]

Go back to your local Toyota dealership and complain about the price. I did and got the price reduced from £460 to £190 (just last month).

Toyota head office had to approve the discount.

[flash22]

Go for the Valeo part (oem for toyota)

Valeo

LH   851108

RH  851109

There is an installation pdf i will see if i can find it........................

https://techassist.valeoservice.systems/api/v1/td/documents/20988/564045172236366

be aware these come without the motor

[Witless]

Just finished a successful install of Electric Life ZR TY704 L regulator after the cable fouled up in the drum on the back of the motor. Like Jase4243 I'm feeling pretty chuffed with myself. 

First hurdle was removing the door card. Bought myself a set of trim tools from Halfords and had a careful go around releasing what I could without snapping anything. There's a panel on the front of the section which houses the door handle, electric window switch and tweeter. Once that's out, there's a couple of screws you can remove. Next up is the trim behind the door release handle - it's dish-shaped - and that allows access to a screw holding the handle in place. Remove the plugs to the woofer and tweeter. Remove the small triangle of trim above the door card and behind the wing mirror. GENTLY pull the door card away by working your way down the catch side, bottom then hinge side. Once the card is released, you need to reach behind and unplug the wire for the window control switch. Should be free now.

Next is the the plastic liner. Annoyingly this is pierced by all sorts of wires and fastenings which prevent you from fully removing it. I released what I could then used the mastic to stick it out of the way wherever I could.

My window was jammed half open and couldn't be either raised or lowered, so I undid the bolts connecting the wires from the two plastic brackets attached to the window itself. I had visions of the window crashing down and shattering inside the door, so got a grip on it before fully releasing the wires. I then hoicked it up to the fully raised position and wedged it in by forcing several trim removal tools down between it and the seals at the bottom of the window aperture. There are four nuts and plastic locators which hold the pulleys in place, so I released these next. Last bit was the motor, which I unplugged then removed by releasing the three bolts holding it in place in the centre of the door. Some wrestling next to extract all the junk. I was surprised how flimsy it all is - under-engineered in my opinion, so no surprise it failed.

I was nervous buying the new unit as it looked very different from what I'd seen inside the door. Instead of just an X shape of wires running through pulleys with the connectors to the window itself just floating feely, this one has a rail on either side up and down which the bracket to connect to the window travels. Seems sturdier. There's a cable tie on the cable drum in the centre with instructions not to release it until it's mounted to the motor. My drum was also a bit off-centre so I straightened it all up before fitting the motor to it. This came of the old unit by releasing the three T25 bolts, and the same bolts are used to mount it on the new unit. The side rails follow the bow of the door skin. I scratched my head over them for a while before working it out. One end of the rail has a piercing for the mounting bolt, and the other has a sticky-outy bracket from the rail with the bolt hole on that. I think the sticky outy ones are the top two ones (left and right below the window). Once they're in and the wires stowed nicely (there's one plastic clip supplied for one of the central wires to be clipped inside the cross strut), bolt the window brackets into the brackets on the rails. Plug the motor back in, and secure it in place with three bolts. Reach around the back with some wire cutters and remove the cable tie holding the cable drum (I forgot but got away with it)

Now the moment of truth. I removed the window control switch from the door card to make things a bit easier here, and reconnected it. Start the ignition. From the driver's side controls I could only get the window to go about halfway down then all the way up before it returned itself to about a quarter open. Using the passenger side control switch, I closed it fully and held the switch in position for a count of 20 (5 secs listed here didn't seem to work for me). Then the same procedure for fully open. FIXED!!!

There was a slight struggle getting the door card back on. Some of the white fasteners came away with the card and seemed happy to snap back into their holes when offered up. Others stayed in the door and wouldn't clip to the card. Eventually I got some fine hook nosed pliers and gripped them on the central spine just above the first flange and pulled them firmly out in a straight line without bending. They can then be fitted to the door card and the whole thing will just press home.

Sorry it's a bit long, but I could find only the info in this thread and one Youtube video of a South African guy removing the door card, so maybe someone might find it useful. I initially asked my local Toyota garage for a quote and got a prompt reply offering to sell me their extended warranty. It was for cars up to 10 years old, and I'd already told them mine is a 2009... When I also told the guy that the door was already stripped and I just wanted a price for fitting the regulator only, I never heard from him again. Fair enough, probably not enough margin for him, but I was left with no choice but to have a go, and I'm glad I did.

Tools used: Halfords trim tools, miniature socket spanner with 10mm head and the T25 head, screwdriver, lager 🙂

[Witless]

Sorry, meant to link to the part I used:

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/electric-life/8227927

The price fluctuated all over the place over several days, which is annoying. Think I paid 62 quid for it once I eventually took the plunge.

[Mark_P]

I did this just last year when the passenger side regulator went. It is rather tricky to do on your own for the first time, I ended up getting some help from my father in-law and it went a bit easier.  The hardest part at first was getting the card panel away from the door and then figuring out how to do certain things like detach the old one from the window and then reattaching. quite fiddly.