Vibrations 09Toyota Carolla Lina d4d 1.5

[Toyota 09]

Vibrations

Hi my 2009 Toyota Corolla d4d Luna 1.4 diesel is vibrating while accelerating between 80-100km p/h . When I reach 100km and lay off acceleration vibration stops . I feel it at my feet and In driver seat and passenger seat ,I got 2 new tyre other 2 are very good got them all balanced it’s not engine mount . Any help/advice welcome please 

 

[FROSTYBALLS]

Moved to the Corolla club.

Original topic deleted.

[TonyHSD]

Hi, I am currently experiencing similar vibration with auris 2010, I feel them most of the time at different speeds , not on acceleration,  40mph, 65mph, when slowing down too. When vibrations are felt through footwell and seats usually the problem is related to the rear wheels. Check your wheel bearing as those are very common problem that causes vibrations. I am waiting for some good days and will change them as I do have noise from bad bearings too. You can check yours by jacking up the car, shake the wheels 12:00 and 18:00 a clock, then 03:00 and 21:00 if any play present it is a symptom of bad bearings. Spin the wheels and if there are any grinding or rumbling noises you definitely have rear wheel bearing that needs change. If rear pads touching the discs and you can here the bearings, you can spray little bit of water on the discs and will stop pads noises so you can concentrate on the bearings. If you wheels are difficult to spin you may also have stuck brake Caliper, that is also a cause of vibrations to check , if in doubt get them serviced. Do same checks and on the front wheels, if you not an diy person better take the car to the garage . 
Regards

[Toyota 09]

Tony HSD 

thank you for your reply . I had bushel done on the back axel and new brake pads I’ll ask mechanic to check bearings for me . Thanks again for your help 

[Toyota 09]

UPDATE on the 09 d4d luna vibrations

I got the car sorted it was an inner wheel drive coupling on the left side. Thanks again for taking the time to get back to me

[TonyHSD]

Hi,

that’s nice to here you have it sorted.  Was it the inner cv joint  you mean? My vibrations still here and it’s very annoying. I did checked the inner cv joints but they seems like rock solid, same for the suspension all around, nothing can point the reason for my vibrations so far. My vibrations comes when the car reaches certain speeds no matter if in acceleration , braking, coasting or in N, first noticeable at around 40mph then at around 60mph to 70mph and after 70mph vibrations disappears or become very weak and can not be noticed. Interestingly I feel more vibrations in the strong winds that we get at present. I have already changed the wheel bearings and brakes but they needed to be done anyway, so no noises now but just the helicopter one and vibrations. 😐 Any suggestion welcome. 

[oldcodger]

33 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Hi,

that’s nice to here you have it sorted.  Was it the inner cv joint  you mean? My vibrations still here and it’s very annoying. I did checked the inner cv joints but they seems like rock solid, same for the suspension all around, nothing can point the reason for my vibrations so far. My vibrations comes when the car reaches certain speeds no matter if in acceleration , braking, coasting or in N, first noticeable at around 40mph then at around 60mph to 70mph and after 70mph vibrations disappears or become very weak and can not be noticed. Interestingly I feel more vibrations in the strong winds that we get at present. I have already changed the wheel bearings and brakes but they needed to be done anyway, so no noises now but just the helicopter one and vibrations. 😐 Any suggestion welcome. 

Hi,

Assume you have had the wheels balanced ?  they can make mistakes by not dialing in the correct tyre /rim sizes, so worth getting another garage to check them.

What about the tyres, no sign for any bulges  on the inner or outer sidewalls or main tread area, a bump/kerbing can cause such a problem or as once happened to me , a new tyre developed a bulge and caused vibration within 50 miles.

Have the rims been checked  that they are reasonably round and again no big dents hidden on the inner side ?

Are the shocks in good condition ?  are the springs sound , sometimes hard to spot a broken one.

Why did you have to change the wheel brearings, (rears ?)  did they have obvious play or sounded really rough  which can only be properly checked once the pads have been removed/retracted

What about the discs, have they been changed or checked for run out ?  if new ones fitted was the surface of the axle plate properly cleaned to ensure it was flat ?

[TonyHSD]

Hi  thank you for the comments.
Yes the wheels have been balanced twice and twice tracking done, two different places , I am aware of one of the wheels is slightly buckled, but both garages did balanced and said that “should be alright “, not happy with that . All tyres are in very good condition too, no kerbs or bubbles, tread is nice and smooth, suspension all checked, springs and shocks seems in good shape, all brakes and wheel bearings been done, rear one were grinding when turned, no wobble in any of them but I decided to change everything to make sure I am ok, the car travels 200+ miles a day on motorway. Maybe new set of wheels and tyres will solve the problem, hopefully. I was thinking of inner cv joints but vibrations are present in neutral too and not related to acceleration or braking but with speed . Once I hit 40 mph and I can feel them, then at 60mph harder one, especially when is windy. 🧐 I had a pothole incident a month ago, which may explain the the buckled wheel or more wheels damage. Thinking of buying a new set of wheels and tyres and give it a go. Very upset with the garage that didn’t make a note that the wheel is bad so I can buy a new one not only a new tyre and claim from the highway agency, now I did my claim sent only for a new tyre. 😐

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Do you have a full sized spare wheel ?   you could just get one and then try it on all four corners and see if it has any effect ?

With your high mileage, assume the trye tread wear is even, not indicating alignment problems, not just tracking.

Think its worth checking things out properly before spending many hundreds on a full set of new wheels.

When did the problem start, suddenly or progressive,  ties into any works done on the car at that time?

If you are doing 1k mile a week whats the cars total  mileage ?

Also wonder if any of the hybrid parts are causing the vibration, but do not have a clue what the hybrid parts are like, never seen one, but could it be the electric motor out of balance or the recovery system ??

How long since your last mot, could it be worn joints /rubbers on the front or rear .

[TonyHSD]

Hi, mileage is exactly 140k, the vibrations start progressively week after I hit a massive pothole, never had any issues before that. Tyres are wearing fine, MOT due in June, but I take care of my car myself and been so for many years with all of my cars,  been in the trade for some time before my current job. I did try the car with spare tyre but is a space saver and only made the things worse. The vibrations were there before any work was done, I believe it’s not anything after that. Gearbox oil changed too yesterday, nothing wrong with it or the transmission, just slightly darker, and spark plugs also changed, I do that every 60k miles., actually big improvement after those two changes, the car drives a lot better, faster throttle response, less noises from the engine. I put it down to two major possibilities: the buckled wheel or the new tyre that I replaced is defective, ironically was fitted to the buckled wheel, and looking backwards it’s actually when the vibrations start, a week after the incident. On the day of the incident I went to a garage and asked them to check, and they said the tyre is gone and the wheel is ok, so asked them to fit one of my summer tyres to keep me going till I get a new winter tyre. Week later I had the tyre delivered, went there to fit it, and shortly after I started feeling the vibrations. Back to the garage, all 4 corners checked, rebalanced , nothing change. Week later again same procedure in another garage, better one , but no positive change. Just no time and money to spend on garages that are not trustworthy, I am on for a new wheels and tyres and will update what happens. 👍
 

[TonyHSD]

Hi everyone who follows. Today I played with the car again, it seems to me the reason for vibrations is a buckled rear wheel (s) or the tyres themselves are out of round. I am not a tyre specialist unfortunately and can’t said for sure, I had some help today from a professional mechanic and he said that despite the wheel is buckled should not cause that sort of vibrations, he believes it’s caused by not properly balanced tyres all around. I had some videos taken that would like to share with you and if there are some tyre guys or someone who knows something more and can help I will highly appreciate it. Any comments Thankful. 
Rear right wheel: 

 

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Would suggest you do that one the outside of the rim as well as the inside and on all 4 wheels, you might be surprised how much they vary.

I held my mouse pointer on that sidewall line just below the outer tread and you can see it move where the dent is.

As you do not have a true full size spare, would suggest you swap both your fronts to the  back and see how the car responds, if the orignial back wheels, now on the front are out of balance you will soon feel it though the steering wheel as wooble at around 50+ to 70 mph.

 

[TonyHSD]

Hi and thank you for following up. I did check the wheel outside and seems fine, only buckled from inside. Here is the video:

Here I check the rear left wheel, seems like has some bent too:

And here are the front wheels, they seem ok to me, they actually were on the rear of the car at time of incident, but it was just the time for rotating them as I do every 10k miles. 

Regards 

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Only once had a garage jack the front of the car like than and then get it running up to 50+ in 3rd or 4 th , a quick way for them to test and prove that one of their new Dunlops was faulty - which it was. ( the only and last time I had Dunlops!)   Was quiet surprised to see how much the whole front of the car what being jerked up and down by the now out of balance tyre due to a bulge, though when driving seemed like it was just from the steering wheel.

Just two last suggestions:-

1.get someone to follow you in another car, and when you get up to speed and your vibration area, get them to look at all 4 wheels and see if any are moving differently and perhaps identifying which one/s seem to the the problem. eg a faulty shock can look like its bouncing all over the place when at speed.

2. Have the wheels balanced On car, though you will have to search for a garage with the kit to do that, if they do , quiet likely their off car balancing is good as well,  as they usually use much finer weights.

 

PS  we were looking for the Auris in a couple of Toyota  forecourts today but only the odd one in either  - wonder why so scare ?

Perhaps more around after the new reg / trade ins ...

Probably not the Hybrid, think the 1.2 is the one to go for and post 2017 facelift    - any buying tips ..?

 

[TonyHSD]

Thanks for the advice,

I have planned something similar. I will swap all 4 wheels but first the two rear one and drive on motorway, we have two of this cars but we live in different places and busy with day to day tasks, plus the weather is horrible and snow on forecast. They might be a something else worn out along with the buckled wheels, shocks, bushings, links. , they are all checked but I will do it again. 
Auris 1.2T seems like a good choice to me, better than hybrids at the moment because of the cat thefts fiasco, it is  a nice car indeed. I don’t know what to recommend to you specifically to look for while you are searching for one, you have a good knowledge of cars, the typical stuff when buying an used car, plus extended test drive. I had a bad experience with Auris gen 2 diesel, 3 years old and only 22k on the clock with horrible vibrations, yes exactly what I am experiencing now . I had to return the car for refund, lost some cash but saved a lot of hassle. Dealer was helpful but they may had been conned too by the previous owner. Many guys these days are buying a brand new cars with personal  loans and drive them a lot, clock the miles and after 3 years part x the car for another new one hiding around 100k miles under the wheels. Check for  paint jobs done on front bumper, or bonnet, motorway miles are recognised by stone chips a lot,  also you can check car history on Toyotas website. , major problems, recalls, recovery and reconditioning of the car, should be all there. 
Good luck 👍