Knock from OSF front brake when braking at slow speed.

[KennyKen1988]

As the title suggests usually when I'm at 5-10mph and in various slow moving or slowing for traffic lights when I brake I hear a slight knock or clunking sound from front drivers side wheel. It just happens the once when the brakes are applied at low speed. I've had a look at the caliper/discs/pads and all looks normal. My pads have lots of life but the discs are getting on a bit now is there any other areas I should investigate? When the weather improves I am looking to overhaul the calipers so does anyone know the best way about doing this? Perhaps sending them off somewhere for blasting down and new seals etc? Thank you.

[oldcodger]

Hi,

It could be brake pad rattle, have you done any work on the brakes just before the noise started ?

Using Cerafix on the pad holders and on the pad backplates should stop it for a while if thats the cause.

Could be a worn suspension bus and the anti roll bar bushes seems to produce a similar noise.

Only 5 parts to the calipers, piston, seal, bellows cover and bleed nipple , plus the carrier slide pins.

Try this place for exchange calipers or repair kits  https://brakeparts.co.uk/

[KennyKen1988]

Thanks codge that link is very useful for parts. So the sound has completely gone since looking at the brakes so it must of been movement of the brake pads somehow although it all seems solid. Thanks.

 

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Worth getting a small tube of that Cerafix, use it all the time on the brakes instead of Copper grease.

The pistons should have shims that may or not be fitted now , supposed to counteract and pad rattle.

The Caliper slider bolts can sieze and cause problems, so regular cleaning and some red grease will kepe them free.

[KennyKen1988]

I don't see Cerafix and when I search online it comes up with a medical product. I don't suppose it's called Mintex Cerarec? Thanks Codge.

[Rosgoe]

I had this problem on a 1998 Toyota rav 4 it turned out to be a damaged/corroded reluctor ring on the outside end of the driveshaft. The reluctor ring is related to the abs and detects when the wheels are about to lock up under heavy breaking, does the break pedal pulsate slightly? Mine also done this at low speed, although the abs light on the dash did not come on.

it is possible to replace this ring although most mechanics would replace the whole driveshaft as the ring is a press fit on the driveshaft as far as I am aware.

[oldcodger]

3 hours ago, KennyKen1988 said:

I don't see Cerafix and when I search online it comes up with a medical product. I don't suppose it's called Mintex Cerarec? Thanks Codge.

  Sorry, old age memory problems, need to plug in some more new RAM.

 

If it turns out to be what Rosgoe mentions, seems aftermarket  complete driveshafts are now readily available for about £50, but not sure if the TS ones are the same as the basic models ?

 

 

[KennyKen1988]

Okay sure interesting I've removed a reluctor ring before on a different vehicle I've had no issues with my ABS system though electrically. Given the age things are bound to pop up but all has been well recently.

[Stivino]

On 3/1/2020 at 6:17 PM, Rosgoe said:

I had this problem on a 1998 Toyota rav 4 it turned out to be a damaged/corroded reluctor ring on the outside end of the driveshaft. The reluctor ring is related to the abs and detects when the wheels are about to lock up under heavy breaking, does the break pedal pulsate slightly? Mine also done this at low speed, although the abs light on the dash did not come on.

it is possible to replace this ring although most mechanics would replace the whole driveshaft as the ring is a press fit on the driveshaft as far as I am aware.

They don't detect anything, the only provide something for the sensor to count.  All the sensor (electrical pick-up) is doing is counting.  The computer does the rest. i.e. it knows if a wheel has stopped and releases the brake on that wheel.

[KennyKen1988]

I drove today and parked to do my shopping for supplies (I'm enjoying naked noodles 50p a pot in ASDA). Got back in the car after ten or fifteen minutes and as soon as I started moving a loud hideous scraping sound starts coming from the driver's side front wheel. I'll try and get the wheel off again tomorrow and see what's happened hopefully it's easy to diagnose! It sounds like a stone is wedged in the brake or the backplate is rubbing the rotor it's a very sharp sound.

[Rosgoe]

On 4/12/2020 at 3:58 PM, Stivino said:

They don't detect anything, the only provide something for the sensor to count.  All the sensor (electrical pick-up) is doing is counting.  The computer does the rest. i.e. it knows if a wheel has stopped and releases the brake on that wheel.

Well all I know is I replaced mine and the problem disappeared no more pulsating or knocking from the near side brake disc

[KennyKen1988]

Found out the problem basically the anti rattle shim had snapped on the top of the caliper so it was clipping the top of the disc rotor.

Annoyingly on the osf caliper carrier one of the sliders is completely seized in so the brakes need a good overhaul. I tried my best to remove the seized slider but it's been impossible for me. I got new discs, pads, slider kit and I've sourced a used but hopefully fully functioning caliper carrier off eBay so I really need that now to progress and get the brakes back in action!

Will update soon but I think I'm in for a wait as things get delivered to me. Got the sliders so far...

 

Many thanks for the replies so for looks like I'll be keeping a yearly maintenance check up on the brakes from now on!

 

[KennyKen1988]

All finished up today with a replacement caliper carrier off eBay for £25.00.

Moving onto the other side the rotor was a pain to get off the hub but got it free using a breaker bar between the back of the rotor and the hub.

Spent most of my time cleaning up the slider pins. To be honest the replacent ones from Frentech didn't seem very good at all. I believe the ones on my car look like the original Toyota parts possibly made with a brass outer Shell? Either way the original seals are a lot better than the replacements I received so I'm using a mix of old and new for the best outcome.

Notes to finish:

Comline discs and pads £50.00 for the lot all seem fine.

Copper grease a must for backplate disc rotor centers to prevent future sticking.

Breaker bar for loosening the all the caliper bolts (wouldn't of happened with a standard socket wrench.)

Wire brush for cleaning off all the old dust and rust.

Don't buy a slider guide pin set unless you need them you might find your originals are better with a good cleanup.

Trombone brush inserted into the caliper carrier guide holes for cleaning works a treat.

[PinkTiger89]

On 4/15/2020 at 6:21 PM, KennyKen1988 said:

I drove today and parked to do my shopping for supplies (I'm enjoying naked noodles 50p a pot in ASDA). Got back in the car after ten or fifteen minutes and as soon as I started moving a loud hideous scraping sound starts coming from the driver's side front wheel. I'll try and get the wheel off again tomorrow and see what's happened hopefully it's easy to diagnose! It sounds like a stone is wedged in the brake or the backplate is rubbing the rotor it's a very sharp sound.

Check those caliper slider pins. Bugger for seizing. Cost me a fortune.

[PinkTiger89]

On 4/26/2020 at 4:50 PM, KennyKen1988 said:

All finished up today with a replacement caliper carrier off eBay for £25.00.

Moving onto the other side the rotor was a pain to get off the hub but got it free using a breaker bar between the back of the rotor and the hub.

Spent most of my time cleaning up the slider pins. To be honest the replacent ones from Frentech didn't seem very good at all. I believe the ones on my car look like the original Toyota parts possibly made with a brass outer shell? Either way the original seals are a lot better than the replacements I received so I'm using a mix of old and new for the best outcome.

Notes to finish:

Comline discs and pads £50.00 for the lot all seem fine.

Copper grease a must for backplate disc rotor centers to prevent future sticking.

Breaker bar for loosening the all the caliper bolts (wouldn't of happened with a standard socket wrench.)

Wire brush for cleaning off all the old dust and rust.

Don't buy a slider guide pin set unless you need them you might find your originals are better with a good cleanup.

Trombone brush inserted into the caliper carrier guide holes for cleaning works a treat.

Just seen your update. Wish I paid that for my carrier 🤦‍♀️ was x5 at least. Hope it fixes 

[Stivino]

On 4/26/2020 at 4:50 PM, KennyKen1988 said:

Copper grease a must for backplate disc rotor centers to prevent future sticking.

There's no need for it. The two threaded holes in the discs are used to push the disc off.

[KennyKen1988]

On 5/21/2020 at 10:45 PM, PinkTiger89 said:

Just seen your update. Wish I paid that for my carrier 🤦‍♀️ was x5 at least. Hope it fixes 

It was just a used one so not in the best shape, had to spend half an hour on the bench cleaning it up as it was very corroded. Wanted to get a new carrier but I had no choice since every place I contacted only sell the smaller caliper carrier used on the base model Corolla (255 disc rotor).

It's a pain cause with my registration entered in a lot of stores will say they have the correct one but its the smaller one, TRW BDA1023 is what it will usually come up with and I think 1024 is for the other side but it's the wrong part. These videos were a big help to me so I'll link them here for future reference:

https://youtu.be/6Kw6doNr2i0

https://youtu.be/1kmp4ruZExk

https://youtu.be/Mkr96_ImB-g

As for using the thread holes through the rotor this did not work for me, the disc was well and truly stuck/fused to the hub face. I was suprised it was stuck so much since the other disc rotor came away with no effort,

 

[Stivino]

2 hours ago, KennyKen1988 said:

As for using the thread holes through the rotor this did not work for me

It can't not work, you mustn't have been applying enough torque to the bolts.

How did you break it free?

[PinkTiger89]

22 hours ago, KennyKen1988 said:

It was just a used one so not in the best shape, had to spend half an hour on the bench cleaning it up as it was very corroded. Wanted to get a new carrier but I had no choice since every place I contacted only sell the smaller caliper carrier used on the base model Corolla (255 disc rotor).

 

I ended up getting it from MrT 🤦‍♀️

[PinkTiger89]

22 hours ago, KennyKen1988 said:

As for using the thread holes through the rotor this did not work for me, the disc was well and truly stuck/fused to the hub face. I was suprised it was stuck so much since the other disc rotor came away with no effort,

 

Never had a disk stick on before? I've got a new hub sat here I was gona stick on eBay if it's of any use to you I'll give you first dibs lol (not sure what model your on though)