2007 D4D T180 Estate Flat spot/lack of power

[Mark 57]

New to group so thanks in advance for any help....

Car has a distinct flat spot after changing gear. So around 1200 to 1800 revs after changing gear, foot down and hardly pulls at all. Then turbo flys in and off we go. Car pulls fine through the range if you slow down and fine once passed this lack of power. Oil and filter changed, air and fuel filter changed. No fault codes. Fuel treatment and a good blast up the bypass as thought it might be recent lack of big runs out. Cleaned out egr valve and port as you can see in pics. This has improved performance but flat spot still present! Just been motd and passed emissions test no problem!
Car has done 143k so not worth a great deal so wary of going into big cost repairs. Wondering if it’s injectors or turbo issue? Any ideas, common faults or pointers much appreciated...

Thanks

Just to add that I have took the maf sensor out and given it a clean. 

Edited March 8, 2020 by Mark 57
Additional info

[James_Delahunt]

On 3/8/2020 at 10:36 AM, Mark 57 said:

New to group so thanks in advance for any help....

Car has a distinct flat spot after changing gear. So around 1200 to 1800 revs after changing gear, foot down and hardly pulls at all. Then turbo flys in and off we go. Car pulls fine through the range if you slow down and fine once passed this lack of power. Oil and filter changed, air and fuel filter changed. No fault codes. Fuel treatment and a good blast up the bypass as thought it might be recent lack of big runs out. Cleaned out egr valve and port as you can see in pics. This has improved performance but flat spot still present! Just been motd and passed emissions test no problem!
Car has done 143k so not worth a great deal so wary of going into big cost repairs. Wondering if it’s injectors or turbo issue? Any ideas, common faults or pointers much appreciated...

Thanks

Just to add that I have took the maf sensor out and given it a clean. 

SCV or suction control valve meters the fuel from the fuel filter housing to the high pressure pump now this cpuld be yur issue it is one if the symtoms but also another symptom is hard to start excess ceanking firing for few seconds n shutting back off i would also look at your turbo see what shape the fins are in check for play 

[Mark 57]

Thanks for the reply James.

Next steps done. 
1. Thorough clean of Egr valve with carb cleaner incl releasing spring to get right into it.

2. Injector cleaner in fuel as one a few tanks ago was just a general fuel treatment so wanted to make sure

3. Egr valve and system cleaner used via air intake.

Car pulls so much better, like a rocket but still a lull after changing gear.

1. Removed Scv and stripped down. Channels in the central plunger were dirty. Cleaned and refitted and still the same. Starts fine both hot and cold and whatever weather. No fault codes or lights etc. Seems cheapest to replace in case? 
 

Is checking the Turbo a difficult job?

Worth cleaning the throttle body? I take it’s what I see situated underneath the intake manifold? 
 

Might leave it a bit till some decent journeys done as only running to work locally at the minute. Get the treatment through system properly! 

[Devon Aygo]

As the EGR and its port on the intake where so blocked the ports from the intake into the cylinder head plus the pipe work running back from the EGR through the cylinder nhead and back into the EGR cooler will most certainly be just as bad.

In pic attached you have cleaned the areas circled blue, the manifold and the passages ( circled Green ) into the head will be all clogged as well as the EGR route ( red arrows ) back to the EGR cooler circled Yellow

[paul9]

A quick check on the working of the turbo actuator that sets the angle of the variable vanes would be advisable. With the engine running and probably the cover off, pull the rubber vacuum hose from the actuator and reconnect it a few times watching the linkage on the bottom of the actuator to the turbocharger. It needs to lower and raise promptly and smoothly, in around a second or less from pulling or connecting the vacuum hose.

[Mark 57]

Thanks for info Devon Aygo, much appreciated. I had hoped that the can of extreme cleaner would sort the rest of the system but I suppose it’s limited to how much it can clear. Pic of what I used posted. I used from air filter housing outlet. 
So like you say with the egr valve and relating manifold port being so clogged the rest is likely to be as well. That’s my weekend plans then. Removal of said items and lots of carb cleaner! 
I’ll let you know how I get on!

Thanks again👍🏻

[Mark 57]

Thanks Paul 9. I’ll check that over the weekend as well and hopefully operation is ok. Turbo seems to operate fine from low revs after slowing down it’s just that changing gear issue. 
Appreciate your help😎

[Mark 57]

Cleaned out manifold, throttle body and cylinder head ports. Can’t believe how much crap came off it. Not been for a run yet as ran out of time but seemed ok driving to jet wash. Not had chance to get to other bits on diagram yet. Will let you know.  

[Mark 57]

Actuator rod drops as soon as you pull the pipe off then returns but slower when the pipe is reconnected. Video not great but sort of shows it. Not had chance to check turbo fins....

[paul9]

Probably just my eyes or the angle, but there doesn't seem to be a great deal of travel on that. I no longer have my Avensis so I can't easily check what the movement range should be. The rate of movement seems to be comparable to what I remember on mine. I would be checking air and vacuum lines for leaks, just as a matter of course, though.

[Stivino]

I just happen to have one of these turbos.  so, I've just taken a couple of photos.

The maximum movement of the rod is 10mm.

 

 

[Mark 57]

Apologies for delay as I’ve been busy with work and not done anything else on the car. It drives loads better since cleaning out the manifold and ports. Starts fine still and accelerates like s as rocket but still has the changing gear lull or flat spot. 

Mentioned earlier was cleaning the egr valve cooler? Where is it located? Hopefully not below the intake manifold so I get to the job again. I forgot about checking it. 
Also is there anything to check turbo wise apart the actuator rod moving? 

Concerned the lack of power will be more of a problem when I tow the caravan....

Thanks...

[Mark 57]

6 months on and the turbo is done. Lag still present but got used to it. Now a loud wooshing type noise. Very present from the inlet side thought this is furthest away from the noise of the engine. En route to the garage this got somewhat louder. Garage closed so I returned. Pipes all intact and present. Took pipe off at inlet side and a little bit of oil present (see pic). Slight play on bearing also so I figure its a new turbo required. Garage has quoted me a grand to sort it which is worth more than the car! Wondering if you can help with these questions. How difficult is it to remove Turbo as not a great deal of space by the looks of it?

Have seen the cores available or would a complete unit be better as other parts probably worn also?

 

Thanks for any advice as MOT due in Feb so possibility of getting rid might be easiest option!

[Stivino]

Was that a Toyota turbo, remanufactured turbo, new unbranded turbo, does it have a guarantee, incase it is faulty?

Edited December 8, 2020 by Stivino
typo

[Mark 57]

Not sure as I was a bit in shock at the price. Can see recon ones with two year guarantee for £260 hence wondering how awkward they are to change!

[Stivino]

I meant, the one in the picture.

[Mark 57]

Ah I see! I would think the original is still in the car (one in pic) as I’ve had it since 90k. Now on 145k but I can have a look when I get home. Not been changed whilst I’ve had it so no guarantee etc

[Stivino]

I'm confused. 

Is the turbo in the picture the one which is currently fitted to the car?

[Mark 57]

Yes it is. Apologies for confusion as I have read back and when typing done I meant dead and not done as in changed! Mid work and using phone!

[Mark 57]

Further checks in daylight to make sure it is the turbo. Thought I’d check all intercooler pipes incase of splits etc and found the culprit. Lower mounting bolt for air con rad into intercooler is snapped off so in theory leaving a small hole in the intercooler. 

[Paul Gailey]

On 3/15/2020 at 10:50 PM, Mark 57 said:

Cleaned out manifold, throttle body and cylinder head ports. Can’t believe how much crap came off it. Not been for a run yet as ran out of time but seemed ok driving to jet wash. Not had chance to get to other bits on diagram yet. Will let you know.  

that's a proper amount of greasy filth - i've probably cleaned my EGR 5 times now in about 9 years from excess short journeys clogging it up - but am tempted to go further and do this section if it's just a little more work - is it recommendable? presumably the first photo makes cleaning that part a little more risky?

[Paul Gailey]

On 3/11/2020 at 8:54 PM, Devon Aygo said:

As the EGR and its port on the intake where so blocked the ports from the intake into the cylinder head plus the pipe work running back from the EGR through the cylinder nhead and back into the EGR cooler will most certainly be just as bad.

In pic attached you have cleaned the areas circled blue, the manifold and the passages ( circled Green ) into the head will be all clogged as well as the EGR route ( red arrows ) back to the EGR cooler circled Yellow

hi Lee - is removing and deep cleaning the cooler EGR worthwhile on a 200k T180?  -looks quite buried from the diagram. Having cleaned the EGR every 18months  for 100k km i am now minded to deep clean the manifold and throttle body - possibly taking them to a local electro static bath service - to preserve the engine life - is it a job albeit a long one, that an amateur could do at home or any specialist tools needed other than a regular socket set?