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Posted

Hi peeps... so I've been trying to find this !Removed! oil leak. Garage says could be rocker gasket or head starting to go. Imo it's not the head. No signs of smoke or smell and no loss of power ect. Oil is not milky. Oil leak is also very slight despite it looking much worse. 

Anyway I've been doing some research online and a few suggest the timing chain cover gaskets? I'm not sure what and where so posting this vid. 

Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction if you've had something similar. 

Should also mention my clutch slips every now and then. It's next on the list to fix just depends on if I'm throwing money at my baby when she's past it 😭 lol (also need last exhaust heat sheild if anyone has one)

I love this car 😂 

 

(video is sideways trying to lower phone down back. Other vid from under. Think I need a new drain plug too)


Posted

Update... been under the car wiping the gunk off it. Could be the common TC tensioner O-Ring... just taking her for a spin and will check when home. Does anyone have a part number for the O-Ring or the full tensioner as I've seen MrT only do it in a full set. Any suggestions? 

Posted

Might be better to get some spray Gunk or similar and fully clean off all that oil around the engine block , then would think you will soon spot the leak as it looks considerable.

Could be so many causes, rocker cover probably favourite, but not heard of  any mention of timing chain cover gaskets being a problem.

Have you checked, nipped up the rocker cover bolts/screws  ?

The clutch slip, could that be oil getting in there or just worn from hard work,  doing it yourself or a garage  ? worth finding somewhere that can skim the flywheel if needed, or fit a new one.

  • Like 1
Posted

Had a similar problem to mine but not quite as bad of a leak.

My mechanic checked mine and wagered it was leaking from the timing chain tensioner, so I replaced the o ring only.

Also for peace of mind I had him do the timing chain cover gaskets, front crank seal and reseal my sump pan. Not a drop leaked since.

When I get round to powder coating my rocker cover, hopefully next week, I will be fitting a new seal kit which I have.

If your gonna replace the clutch, make sure you replace the rear main seal as well.

  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Might be better to get some spray Gunk or similar and fully clean off all that oil around the engine block , then would think you will soon spot the leak as it looks considerable.

Could be so many causes, rocker cover probably favourite, but not heard of  any mention of timing chain cover gaskets being a problem.

Have you checked, nipped up the rocker cover bolts/screws  ?

The clutch slip, could that be oil getting in there or just worn from hard work,  doing it yourself or a garage  ? worth finding somewhere that can skim the flywheel if needed, or fit a new one.

I've not nipped up anything yet. I know more than most birds but I'm still a noob compared to you lot 😂 Is there a gunk remover you would reccomend? I've ordered the ORing for the TC tensioner as I'm guessing it's never been done as most of it is still stock. I'm replacing stuff as I go bit by bit 🤦‍♀️ I would love to delve into it and fix it myself but nervous incase anything goes wrong. Atm I can't do anything in dads garage or get him to shadow me so I'll get local mechanic to do it. Which bolts should i tighten? Got sockets for days and ratchets but no way to check torque yet. As for the clutch it was always high when I got it but never slipped and I never had an issue until about November. Seams to do it more in 3rd? Maybe because I use that more. (Side note does anyone use 5th in these? Because mine rarely does) I'm not heavy on it and I don't ride it either because I'm always resting my foot. I wouldn't know where to start changing it 😂. I've read about the flywheel and if I can find someone i'll get it done. 

I've just done the air filter and cabin filter and it was hacky af. See what I mean about she's been neglected before. I never knew about the cabin filter 🤦‍♀️ 

Thanks for your help too.

 

18 minutes ago, tarantula_123 said:

Had a similar problem to mine but not quite as bad of a leak.

My mechanic checked mine and wagered it was leaking from the timing chain tensioner, so I replaced the o ring only.

Also for peace of mind I had him do the timing chain cover gaskets, front crank seal and reseal my sump pan. Not a drop leaked since.

When I get round to powder coating my rocker cover, hopefully next week, I will be fitting a new seal kit which I have.

If your gonna replace the clutch, make sure you replace the rear main seal as well.

I've got the ORing ordered from MrT and I think I'll order the TC cover gaskets too as they can be done at same time and like you said "peace of mind".

Thanks for the advice on clutch too. Depending on when lockdown over I'll try and do it with dads help but it's hard because he's 40mile away and this is my daily/only 😂 


Posted

🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️

20200522_120503.jpg

Posted

Probably a few leaks after looking and wiping with clean cloth. Will get as much gunk off as I can when I get some cleaner. Hopefully wind will die down because I'm out on the street kerbing the car getting battered by dust and leaves underneath 😂 my neighbor's must laugh their heads off. 

To do list.

De gunk

Drive

Check again

Get TCT ORing done and probably rocker gasket too (is that something I could do easy enough once I get a torque wrench?) 

Thanks again for all advice. I would love the confidence to just get in there and fix it

Posted

Hi,

An aerosol spray can of Gunk will probably be the easier to use and get into all those difficult areas, or you can use some of the other bottles and a paintbrush etc.

Needs to be washed off afterward, so a spray hose or garden bottle sprayer will make easy work,  but cover your electrics etc.

As for nipping up the rocker / cam cover, so easy to mis-judge , they are only 7 ft/lbs torque, overtighten and you can damage the gasket and cause more leaks.

Worth looking down the spark plug cavities and seeing if there is any oil in them, their seal is part of the same gasket.

Mine started slipping in 3rd also, but only when given some load, I'd suggest its more an early warning, gives you time to get some quotes as prices vary dramatically.

Don't forget the gearbox oil and changing the brake fluid ( now a mot check point)

 

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/engine-cleaner-and-degreaser/

 

000258.jpg

Posted
15 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Hi,

An aerosol spray can of Gunk will probably be the easier to use and get into all those difficult areas, or you can use some of the other bottles and a paintbrush etc.

Needs to be washed off afterward, so a spray hose or garden bottle sprayer will make easy work,  but cover your electrics etc.

As for nipping up the rocker / cam cover, so easy to mis-judge , they are only 7 ft/lbs torque, overtighten and you can damage the gasket and cause more leaks.

Worth looking down the spark plug cavities and seeing if there is any oil in them, their seal is part of the same gasket.

Mine started slipping in 3rd also, but only when given some load, I'd suggest its more an early warning, gives you time to get some quotes as prices vary dramatically.

Don't forget the gearbox oil and changing the brake fluid ( now a mot check point)

 

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/engine-cleaner-and-degreaser/

 

000258.jpg

You're a star thankyou! The spark plugs are on my mental list of things to do aswel once I can. Gona order a torque wrench... kinda gona need one. Gearbox oil was done a few years ago when I bought it if I remember right. Break fluid when it was in Halfords for discs. How long has it been on the mot checklist. My last one was December. She flew through with a few advisories. 

Thanks again. Gona go out and look at another issue soon...  🤦‍♀️ wish me luck

Posted

I recall a half decent video on YouTube for the Timing Chain Tensioner although replacing the unit. Personally I've never touched or had an issue with this part but I may consider changing it in the future sometime. The Matrix Is American but uses the 2ZZ-GE.

https://youtu.be/KaGNBVrBRhA

If you take off the valve cover for whatever reason see to it you change the Lift Bolts especially if you have no evidence of them being replaced, also use a sealant when refitting.

https://kennyfreeland.wordpress.com/2017/07/06/replace-2zz-ge-vvtl-i-camshaft-lift-bolts-at-105k-miles/

Keep out the wind as much as you can I know how much of a pain that can be, and for tools a 5-25nm torque wrench is what I went for and found it very useful for engine work.

Did my spark plugs last year for the first time, I found NGK Iridium plugs to be the best price:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOTUS-EXIGE-1-8-04-fits-Toyota-2ZZ-GE-NGK-LASER-IRIDIUM-SPARK-PLUGS-x-4-IFR6T11/152579939595?epid=5034771313&hash=item2386791d0b:g:4ukAAOSwd4tTwAOh

 

Posted
On 5/23/2020 at 5:18 PM, PinkTiger89 said:

I've not nipped up anything yet. I know more than most birds but I'm still a noob compared to you lot 😂 Is there a gunk remover you would reccomend? I've ordered the ORing for the TC tensioner as I'm guessing it's never been done as most of it is still stock. I'm replacing stuff as I go bit by bit 🤦‍♀️ I would love to delve into it and fix it myself but nervous incase anything goes wrong. Atm I can't do anything in dads garage or get him to shadow me so I'll get local mechanic to do it. Which bolts should i tighten? Got sockets for days and ratchets but no way to check torque yet. As for the clutch it was always high when I got it but never slipped and I never had an issue until about November. Seams to do it more in 3rd? Maybe because I use that more. (Side note does anyone use 5th in these? Because mine rarely does) I'm not heavy on it and I don't ride it either because I'm always resting my foot. I wouldn't know where to start changing it 😂. I've read about the flywheel and if I can find someone i'll get it done. 

I've just done the air filter and cabin filter and it was hacky af. See what I mean about she's been neglected before. I never knew about the cabin filter 🤦‍♀️ 

Thanks for your help too.

 

I've got the ORing ordered from MrT and I think I'll order the TC cover gaskets too as they can be done at same time and like you said "peace of mind".

Thanks for the advice on clutch too. Depending on when lockdown over I'll try and do it with dads help but it's hard because he's 40mile away and this is my daily/only 😂 

Yeah its good for peace of mind, particularly if you intend to keep the car for a while. Mines currently off the road atm as I'm gonna have it resprayed soon and am in the process of doing some powder coating. I intend to keep mine for as long as possible though.

 

If you do it yourself I'm sure I have the actual PDF file on removing the timing cover/chain etc, so can buzz that over to you if needed. However, if you're going down the mechanics route, be prepared for some hefty quotes. I had the TC cover gaskets and tensioner o ring, front crank seal, water pump and lift bolts replaced, along with the oil pan resealed. I think my mechanic charged me £220 and he had it done in no time. Some of the other quotes I had ranged from £400 up to £700. Ridiculous really considering the chain wasn't replaced as well.

Posted
22 hours ago, KennyKen1988 said:

I recall a half decent video on YouTube for the Timing Chain Tensioner although replacing the unit. Personally I've never touched or had an issue with this part but I may consider changing it in the future sometime. The Matrix Is American but uses the 2ZZ-GE.

https://youtu.be/KaGNBVrBRhA

If you take off the valve cover for whatever reason see to it you change the Lift Bolts especially if you have no evidence of them being replaced, also use a sealant when refitting.

https://kennyfreeland.wordpress.com/2017/07/06/replace-2zz-ge-vvtl-i-camshaft-lift-bolts-at-105k-miles/

Keep out the wind as much as you can I know how much of a pain that can be, and for tools a 5-25nm torque wrench is what I went for and found it very useful for engine work.

Did my spark plugs last year for the first time, I found NGK Iridium plugs to be the best price:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOTUS-EXIGE-1-8-04-fits-Toyota-2ZZ-GE-NGK-LASER-IRIDIUM-SPARK-PLUGS-x-4-IFR6T11/152579939595?epid=5034771313&hash=item2386791d0b:g:4ukAAOSwd4tTwAOh

 

Thanks 👌🏻 I have a set of lift bolts here ready for whenever the lid comes off 😂 had an argument with MrT saying "You don't need them, they never snap. I've worked here 20 years blah blah"... Just give me the part and take your £1.50 and shhhh. 😂 

I've been looking a torques and didn't know what rating to get so thankyou for that it will help a lot. 

Was hoping to get under again today but the weather's looking rather crappy again... just my luck. Going to try and get her parked down the side of the house instead but it's VERY hard to soothe wind here. I'm near the most windy part of the m62 🤷‍♀️ I'll be glad when lockdown is over! 

As for plugs I was looking at the denso power Iridium ones. From what I've read they're pretty much the same as the NGK one. Only reason I lent towards those is because denso are in it now.

Thanks again

  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 hours ago, tarantula_123 said:

Yeah its good for peace of mind, particularly if you intend to keep the car for a while. Mines currently off the road atm as I'm gonna have it resprayed soon and am in the process of doing some powder coating. I intend to keep mine for as long as possible though.

 

If you do it yourself I'm sure I have the actual PDF file on removing the timing cover/chain etc, so can buzz that over to you if needed. However, if you're going down the mechanics route, be prepared for some hefty quotes. I had the TC cover gaskets and tensioner o ring, front crank seal, water pump and lift bolts replaced, along with the oil pan resealed. I think my mechanic charged me £220 and he had it done in no time. Some of the other quotes I had ranged from £400 up to £700. Ridiculous really considering the chain wasn't replaced as well.

Thankyou that would be awesome! I feel you with the quotes because halfrauds wanted £790 ish for the clutch. I laughed so hard he didn't know how to react 😂 I've had better quotes since around £320-£350 just to put it in context. 

I would rather do the work myself. 1. Because it's cheaper. 2. Because I know it's being done right. 3. I can spot other stuff that needs doing. 4. I'll do the correct research because I actually care about my car unlike a mechanic.

I just need to get some tools and the gaskets I need. How long of a job is it do you know? 

I'll be trying to keep her as long as possible. Not many about now, I looked a month ago and there were about 1500 on the road and 500 sorn. I got her cheap too and could have made money straight away. I'd still get more than I paid now 😂 hoping they'll be a future classic haha

  • Thanks 1
Posted
8 hours ago, PinkTiger89 said:

Thankyou that would be awesome! I feel you with the quotes because halfrauds wanted £790 ish for the clutch. I laughed so hard he didn't know how to react 😂 I've had better quotes since around £320-£350 just to put it in context. 

I would rather do the work myself. 1. Because it's cheaper. 2. Because I know it's being done right. 3. I can spot other stuff that needs doing. 4. I'll do the correct research because I actually care about my car unlike a mechanic.

I just need to get some tools and the gaskets I need. How long of a job is it do you know? 

I'll be trying to keep her as long as possible. Not many about now, I looked a month ago and there were about 1500 on the road and 500 sorn. I got her cheap too and could have made money straight away. I'd still get more than I paid now 😂 hoping they'll be a future classic haha

I think my mechanic took around 2-3 hours. On top of that was waiting a while for a part to turn up (exhaust manifold gasket), as he had to pull the manifold back to access one of the last bolts I think, and since they are crush gaskets it makes sense to replace.

Who knows whether they will be a future classic! I've got one of the 5 door versions in metallic black, full black leather interior, and can't recall having seen one similar on the roads or for sale online.

 

 

  • Like 1

Posted
18 minutes ago, tarantula_123 said:

I think my mechanic took around 2-3 hours. On top of that was waiting a while for a part to turn up (exhaust manifold gasket), as he had to pull the manifold back to access one of the last bolts I think, and since they are crush gaskets it makes sense to replace.

Who knows whether they will be a future classic! I've got one of the 5 door versions in metallic black, full black leather interior, and can't recall having seen one similar on the roads or for sale online.

 

 

Thankyou that helps a lot as I can order anything I need before I get them done. 

I've got the 3dr. That's my one and only bug about my car. The 5dr would be soooooo much easier with kids lol. We manage anyway 😂 worth it imo. I didn't know there was full leather so 🤷‍♀️ never seen one. I've just done a good clean inside mine today. Vac and wipe down. Windows and mirrors ect. My stock interior is all black with white spectacles in the seats. Looks ok but I didn't like it so.... #ProjectTurd

I will eventually look at replacing the seats. Especially if the pins go 🤣 I'm the only driver so mine rarely gets moved thankfully.

Seat covers are looking a little tired now but they're 2 years old and 30k in 😂 

(That is definitely a steering lock that I have the key for and not a metal baseball bat of any kind 😇

20200526_162549.thumb.jpg.3538ae9629b317d4642de4cbee16f8d5.jpg20200526_162407.thumb.jpg.9ebed5d799c8ebd44672c5152afa2865.jpg20200526_162433.thumb.jpg.3dfd1a7f2ae7b1d23aedce27d3dcb625.jpg20200526_162843.thumb.jpg.60943314b9cca3edae78ba56162478fb.jpg

 

 

Posted

May end up turning this into a WIP diary for my car at this rate. 

This was the seat covers when I put them in 😂

Snapchat-1654367885.thumb.jpg.ccc1a11a2156a69fa32112343af1a41f.jpg

also I found this bolt when cleaning the passenger side rear foot well. Is it from the seats or some other random car *******. I couldn't see one the same. 20200526_161823.thumb.jpg.a7780db58e5287e2a468dde08a9cedd9.jpg

cleaned the engine bay up a bit last week too. Needs more work but oil leak de gunk first... 20200526_171532.thumb.jpg.098af3aade4f2a6d44cf49ab09ef8e49.jpg

What electric is do I need to cover round the back of the block? Obviously the belts ect. I'll wrap as much as I can anyway. Will try and get in tomorrow weather dependant 🤞🏻

Posted

Also what sealant for the rocker gasket?  Anything specific or anything to avoid. Just wana make sure I'm not getting something wrong. You lot know lol

Posted

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/adhesives/granville-silicone-sealant-clear-40g-173909.html

I used this exact product for the resealing points and followed this guide, just skip the snapped part and it mentions the two bits for sealing.

http://www.users.on.net/~nbenjamin/tech/liftbolts/

Don't need lots of sealant and just take care in doing up the cover very evenly. Also like you say avoiding the wind is ideal, work on a cold engine and make sure you can do the torque specs, I got myself a 5-25nm specifically for this.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

The looks like a rocker cover leak, remove coil packs and check for oil around the spark plugs and clean while you're in there.

Order the gastket from Mr T, and use the link Kenny provided for the joint bead.

Rocker cover is quite easy, the bolts are tightened to 10Nm and 9Nm on the 2 centre ones, but double check for your model.

Good luck

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 5/31/2020 at 11:49 AM, KennyKen1988 said:

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/adhesives/granville-silicone-sealant-clear-40g-173909.html

I used this exact product for the resealing points and followed this guide, just skip the snapped part and it mentions the two bits for sealing.

http://www.users.on.net/~nbenjamin/tech/liftbolts/

Don't need lots of sealant and just take care in doing up the cover very evenly. Also like you say avoiding the wind is ideal, work on a cold engine and make sure you can do the torque specs, I got myself a 5-25nm specifically for this.

 

My 5-25nm torque came today along with the c**k ring for the TC tensioner 🤣 will have a read at your links now 👍🏻

19 hours ago, roks said:

The looks like a rocker cover leak, remove coil packs and check for oil around the spark plugs and clean while you're in there.

Order the gastket from Mr T, and use the link Kenny provided for the joint bead.

Rocker cover is quite easy, the bolts are tightened to 10Nm and 9Nm on the 2 centre ones, but double check for your model.

Good luck

 

 

I've had the cover off and there is no oil at all under there. It's all low down. Could oil still get into to spark plugs from inside? I'm looking at replacing them asap anyway.

Thankyou for the info on bolt torque. Last question 😂 where do I look for manuals on fixing these specific to model? I've looked online but I'm guessing theres a website I'm missing lol20200601_131910.thumb.jpg.016b8f326fb313a8f18e7fc460dbf793.jpg

Posted
On 6/1/2020 at 6:54 PM, PinkTiger89 said:

My 5-25nm torque came today along with the c**k ring for the TC tensioner 🤣 will have a read at your links now 👍🏻

I've had the cover off and there is no oil at all under there. It's all low down. Could oil still get into to spark plugs from inside? I'm looking at replacing them asap anyway.

Thankyou for the info on bolt torque. Last question 😂 where do I look for manuals on fixing these specific to model? I've looked online but I'm guessing theres a website I'm missing lol20200601_131910.thumb.jpg.016b8f326fb313a8f18e7fc460dbf793.jpg

I'd put my money on it leaking from the rocker cover, chain tensioner or cover.

Can't see it being anything to do with the head etc. These engines are one of the most reliable ever made, unless its been severely abused from previous ownership.

Have emailed you both the timing work document and the full 2ZZGE workshop manual, so you should find all the necessary info/torque specs you need!

  • Thanks 1
Posted
16 hours ago, tarantula_123 said:

I'd put my money on it leaking from the rocker cover, chain tensioner or cover.

Can't see it being anything to do with the head etc. These engines are one of the most reliable ever made, unless its been severely abused from previous ownership.

Have emailed you both the timing work document and the full 2ZZGE workshop manual, so you should find all the necessary info/torque specs you need!

You are a diamond!!! Thankyou 👍🏻 I'd say your probably right considering the oil leak does start above the TC tensioner and hasn't got on the belt for it to be thrown around the engine. Fingers crossed eh 😂 

 

Posted

Just came across these when looking for parts. Thought I'd post incase someone else can use them 👌🏻

a1_112872J.jpg

a1_112333H.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

No updates for a while...apologies. Been busy and restoring my calipers since they had 16 years of rust on 3 of them. 

Oil leak still there but I now have the rocker gasket and O ring for TC tensioner. Will attempt it as soon as I feel brave enough. 

 

On a side note I asked MrT for some slider pins 🤣😂🤣 let's all have a laugh at this....

Screenshot_20200624-210152_eBay.thumb.jpg.ed9d9ad60ab6d8a49637c934ead13432.jpg

for those that don't know they cost about £7-£10 😂 

I'd rather go OEM but fk that 🥴

Posted

Well today this happened. Not amused as you can imagine when this is my daily and now it's safe to crawl half a mile to the garage. Both sides being done if I can get parts on a Saturday. Pray for me 😂IMG_20200626_191431_336.thumb.jpg.4776e1d7915516473bec343e2a58fe7e.jpg

(These are 16 year old handbrake shoe clips) when they snap they make a bang and a nice grinding noise like your scraping your discs. Get the bits out and it goes clunk every wheel turn... Fun day... and weekend 😑

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