Installing Cat Lock

[Saxmaniac]

Being a cheapskate, I bought a non oem cat lock plate rather than give the dealer £250

Fitting involves removing and refitting triangular plates between subframe and chassis. Question is, does anyone know the torque setting for these bolts and also whether they're stretch bolts,  ie one use only?  

[eygo]

the torque value will depend on what size bolt you have and the grade of steel

for eg if its an M6 bolt search for M6 bolt torque settings

[TonyHSD]

75Nm +-5Nm as far as I remember. You can also use locking wheel bolts from Peugeot, they add extra security. 
Regards 

[Saxmaniac]

Hi Tony that sounds sensible, I assume they're not stretch bolts then? I'll look at the Peugeot wheel bolt idea though, this thing only uses the standard ones 

[Auris James]

14 hours ago, Saxmaniac said:

Hi Tony that sounds sensible, I assume they're not stretch bolts then? I'll look at the Peugeot wheel bolt idea though, this thing only uses the standard ones 

I just filled over the bolts in car filler! Need to chip it off if I need access!

I also have the eBay cover. I had welded added bars to make it harder to cut! A picture.

James.

[Saxmaniac]

That's not the same one I bought,  mine is a flat stainless ventilated sheet.  It looks very robust but the instructions state bending down the rear end to clear the cat! It seems like bodgery but ive not fitted it yet. eBay number if you're interested 

193351379983

I'm taking the opportunity to do wax injection of box sections subframe and suspension while the car's up in the air. Also a bit worried by electrolyic corrosion between the stainless plate and steel bodywork,  so loads of chassis wax at contact points. Noted that most of the plastic rivets were very loose on the underside covers so fitting a load more of these after waxing. Also doing behind wheelarch liners, there's a big rust trap just behind the cover at the rear of the front wheel. Loads of dirt in here waiting to rust the lower wing,  worth removing wheelarch liners every couple of years I think 

[Catlover]

49 minutes ago, Saxmaniac said:

I'm taking the opportunity to do wax injection of box sections subframe and suspension while the car's up in the air. Also a bit worried by electrolyic corrosion between the stainless plate and steel bodywork,  so loads of chassis wax at contact points. Noted that most of the plastic rivets were very loose on the underside covers so fitting a load more of these after waxing. Also doing behind wheelarch liners, there's a big rust trap just behind the cover at the rear of the front wheel. Loads of dirt in here waiting to rust the lower wing,  worth removing wheelarch liners every couple of years I think 

I know what you saying Geoff, but I reckon not many owners do what your suggesting. Having said that, I cannot remember seeing any mk2 Auris, or even older Mk1 Auris with rusty lower wings...... and actually without major rust anywhere (stone chips and scratches excluded).

[Saxmaniac]

I know,  I am probably over the top,  I don't know how long it takes for the tinworm to start. Depends on the coating and the quality of the steel,  but I've always liked to get rust protection in place, just being an old woman!