Highest miles

[nielshm]

A taxidriver has done 1.1 mill km. in a Toyota Hiace on the Faroe Island. All is original, also exhaust and clutch. 

[Wooster]

5 minutes ago, nielshm said:

1.1 mill km. in a Toyota Hiace

Ah, but it's not a hybrid, is it?  But if we're talking about non-hybrid models (so, off topic) there's a story of an American Toyota pick-up passing 1 million miles.  (1.6 million Km) Toyota exchanged it for a new model so they could strip down the old pick-up and examine what had worn.  Story here: motortrend.com/million-mile-tear-down  But - as I said, we're off topic. 

[TonyHSD]

56 minutes ago, Wooster said:

Ah, but it's not a hybrid, is it?  But if we're talking about non-hybrid models (so, off topic) there's a story of an American Toyota pick-up passing 1 million miles.  (1.6 million Km) Toyota exchanged it for a new model so they could strip down the old pick-up and examine what had worn.  Story here: motortrend.com/million-mile-tear-down  But - as I said, we're off topic. 

Thanks, that’s a nice story. In UK though cars has minimal chances of survival to that high miles because of the rust but 500k miles are achievable, I have seen few European cars like Peugeot 208 diesel , Skoda Octavia , Audi A4 had reached these numbers with mostly service parts replacement, not a major components., perhaps clutches and shocks. 👍 Motorway journeys are what usually cars likes 🛣🚘😊

[Wooster]

2 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

minimal chances of survival to that high miles because of the rust

But they probably use salt on the roads in Austria.  (Lots of snow and ice) So that Austrian taxi would have been exposed to lots of corrosion inducing salt...

[TonyHSD]

16 minutes ago, Wooster said:

But they probably use salt on the roads in Austria.  (Lots of snow and ice) So that Austrian taxi would have been exposed to lots of corrosion inducing salt...

They do definitely as they have a proper winter conditions there, here though the amount of salt on the roads in temperatures well above freezing 6-7C° is beyond imagination. 😶 Perhaps the guy has taken a good care after driving through winter months, for the car if you are regular motorway driver after the salty months when the spring rain arrives a high speed motorway driving cleans the underbody well, but cars that are not in regular use after each motorway journey in winter months a good wash under the car will prevent a lots of rust issues. 👌

[AisinW]

It is indeed true, Rust is the biggest problem in older pre-2010 Toyota.  The easiest and good rust protectant is Fluid Film wool fat base undercoating. You do not need any special cleaning. Just spray because it is lanolin, similar thing that mothers use on cracked nipple when breastfeeding. It is way better and safer than rubberized coating that often trap water. 

Newer Toyota  has plastic cover under body, it reduce the amount of impact, noise, and corrosion. Undercoating with Liquid Film is still a good idea, especially before any surface rust form. 

 

[TonyHSD]

Do you know why German cars never rust? 
Simply because they are fully covered in oil underneath, hahaha most of the German cars older than 5 years are leaking like hell. 😂👍

[yossarian247]

12 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Do you know why German cars never rust? 
Simply because they are fully covered in oil underneath, hahaha most of the German cars older than 5 years are leaking like hell. 😂👍

Peugeots too. The 1.9 XUD was a tough old engine but they seemed to leak oil almost from new!

 

[AisinW]

I was underfire when trying to criticise German cars in Motor-talk.de  .  It was terrible, they couldn't accept how bad some of them are. Especially oil leaks in almost all of them just outside warranty period.

When I mentioned how good Toyota,Honda, Mazda engines and transmission seals are, they are furious.  I shared my ownership on how easy DIY with Prius 06,  5y/100k miles brake flush interval and how trouble free hybrid are. However, only 1/10 are amazed and curious if it is indeed true, hybrid are trouble free even with complicated electronics.  But other parts that we always need to maintain and replace are still easy. 

 

[Motheo]

My 2011 Auris 1.3 was sitting on 245 000km when i borrowed it to my brother 3 weeks ago and i will getting it back end of October 2021. I got it at 159 000km in 2018.

 

It has been reliable and solid. What an awesome car it is.

Love it

[AisinW]

Toyota/Lexus makes solid car, not the newest flashy gimmick, only significant tested tech like hybrid and dual injectors.  Now we get collision avoidance as standard in all Toyota from Yaris up. Something that often you have to pay extra €2000-€10 000 in German or Italian cars. 

[Tigit]

What about 1.33 1NR-FE engines. I've read they go only about 120 000 miles (cca 200k km) before they wear out. Has anyone reached that mileage? Is it really so?

[AisinW]

I will be surprised if there is any Toyota Engine that won't last 200k miles. Even the worst oil drinker, 1.8L 1998-2002 in Corolla often can reach 200k miles.  Those engines are known from faulty design on too small and too few oil return holes and low tension piston rings. 

[Cyker]

The problem with the 1NR-FE is it consumes more and more oil as it ages, supposedly due to weak piston rings. If you kept feeding it oil or got the, sadly now out of warranty, fix it would probably as reliable as any Toyota engine. I think the 1.4 D4D is the highest mileage engine I see people boast about most often on this forum tho'  

On a slight tangent, my Mk4 is now into the 5-figures of odometer as of Monday gone! Can't believe I've already racked up over 10k miles in it in what, 7 months?!  

[Mooly]

2 hours ago, Tigit said:

What about 1.33 1NR-FE engines. I've read they go only about 120 000 miles (cca 200k km) before they wear out. Has anyone reached that mileage? Is it really so?

I'm approaching 82k miles and have just cracked open and added about 1/3 litre from my third 4 litre can of oil (since March 1st) for top ups. 8k covered in that time. My only worry is emissions and contamination of sensors and the cat and so to try and mitigate that I frequently (on a hot engine of course) take it right up to the red line several times a week.

It is honestly running better than ever subjectively, super smooth in its power delivery and quiet. It should also be worse on E10 petrol but I've noticed its running better than ever these last few weeks. Consistently so. Also the oil I'm using for topping up is now 10/40 grade.   

[Tigit]

On 11/28/2021 at 6:46 PM, Mooly said:

I'm approaching 82k miles and have just cracked open and added about 1/3 litre from my third 4 litre can of oil (since March 1st) for top ups. 8k covered in that time. My only worry is emissions and contamination of sensors and the cat and so to try and mitigate that I frequently (on a hot engine of course) take it right up to the red line several times a week.

It is honestly running better than ever subjectively, super smooth in its power delivery and quiet. It should also be worse on E10 petrol but I've noticed its running better than ever these last few weeks. Consistently so. Also the oil I'm using for topping up is now 10/40 grade.   

That's 1L per 1000 miles. Do you remember when it started burning oil? 

 

On 11/28/2021 at 6:33 PM, Cyker said:

The problem with the 1NR-FE is it consumes more and more oil as it ages, supposedly due to weak piston rings. If you kept feeding it oil or got the, sadly now out of warranty, fix it would probably as reliable as any Toyota engine. I think the 1.4 D4D is the highest mileage engine I see people boast about most often on this forum tho'  

On a slight tangent, my Mk4 is now into the 5-figures of odometer as of Monday gone! Can't believe I've already racked up over 10k miles in it in what, 7 months?!  

It seems 1.33 1NR-FE is going to be the lowest mileage engine 😐

[TonyHSD]

Back to the topic, getting there slowly and if all goes as planned after new year Toyota will send me a new sticker 🤞🏁🏎

[AisinW]

On 11/28/2021 at 6:46 PM, Mooly said:

I'm approaching 82k miles and have just cracked open and added about 1/3 litre from my third 4 litre can of oil (since March 1st) for top ups. 8k covered in that time. My only worry is emissions and contamination of sensors and the cat and so to try and mitigate that I frequently (on a hot engine of course) take it right up to the red line several times a week.

It is honestly running better than ever subjectively, super smooth in its power delivery and quiet. It should also be worse on E10 petrol but I've noticed its running better than ever these last few weeks. Consistently so. Also the oil I'm using for topping up is now 10/40 grade.   

If your car consume oil, avoid E10 gasoline, just use E5 and use  low SAPS  ACEA C1 5w-30 oil to extend your catalytic converter lifespan. 

[Mooly]

2 hours ago, Tigit said:

That's 1L per 1000 miles. Do you remember when it started burning oil? 

 

It seems 1.33 1NR-FE is going to be the lowest mileage engine 😐

 

I think from around 40k. It began by just needing 0.5L to see it through  between services, then a bit more the next year. After that it was OK, so a 1L bottle won't cover this for a year, I'll get a 2L. Then a 4L, then two 4L using about half the second one and finally now a full 8 litres added in 9 months. Still another three months before a service is required... so not good is it?     

 

1 hour ago, AisinW said:

If your car consume oil, avoid E10 gasoline, just use E5 and use  low SAPS  ACEA C1 5w-30 oil to extend your catalytic converter lifespan. 

Thanks but tbh I'm buying oil as much on price now and also using 10W40 as it genuinely seems to run quieter and smoother on this. It still drives like it did when new.   

[AisinW]

28 minutes ago, Mooly said:

 

I think from around 40k. It began by just needing 0.5L to see it through  between services, then a bit more the next year. After that it was OK, so a 1L bottle won't cover this for a year, I'll get a 2L. Then a 4L, then two 4L using about half the second one and finally now a full 8 litres added in 9 months. Still another three months before a service is required... so not good is it?     

 

Thanks but tbh I'm buying oil as much on price now and also using 10W40 as it genuinely seems to run quieter and smoother on this. It still drives like it did when new.   

Believe it or not, 1000 miles per 1L oil consumption considered to be the limit now.  I still don't like it but many Golf  owners always live with it since they are new.  My 2004 Sienna at 210k miles still consume less than 0.1 L in 5000 miles oil change interval 5W-30.  I used cheap regular Pennzoil Yellow bottle that cost less than $15 per 5 Quarts.  But my Prius 2006 consumed 0.5L in 5000 miles, the catalytic converter gave up at 211k miles from burning oil. 

[Oisin]

4 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Back to the topic, getting there slowly and if all goes as planned after new year Toyota will send me a new sticker 🤞🏁🏎

You're nearly there!  Got my 200k mile sticker last week.  Have my NCT on Sunday though so I'm holding off on sticking it up.  Don't want to jinx it!

[TonyHSD]

3 minutes ago, Oisin said:

You're nearly there!  Got my 200k mile sticker last week.  Have my NCT on Sunday though so I'm holding off on sticking it up.  Don't want to jinx it!

Nice one, well done 👍 

[Cyker]

Yeah that's why so few of them got replaced under warranty - They didn't break that 1L/1000mi limit until the warranty ran out... Was a bit of a dick move since the engines were clearly showing increasing oil consumption, but even at 0.7L/1000mi I hear warranty replacement was refused.

It's partly what made me hesitate from buying the Mk4 (If it wasn't for the sequence of events that I've already talked about too much, I would have waited 3 years and got one second hand at a much more reasonable cost!) - It shows Toyota aren't immune to what we used to call Corel syndrome (Corel were a software company who were notorious for their first releases to be buggy as heck, so you always waited for version 1.02 or something before buying anything they made!! Sadly this seems to have become standard practise - Even Microsoft are doing it with their mission critical operating systems now...)

The 1NR-FE was a bit of an odd-ball as it was effectively a new engine design that Toyota rushed it out to get under that then-important £30 tax band. The previous 1.3 had been iterated over for years so was virtually bullet-proof, but couldn't hold up to modern emissions requirements. Unfortunately that first-version syndrome hit the 1NR-FE pretty hard, and although they fixed most of the issues in time for the Mk3 Yaris it was already on the edge of emissions compliance and soon replaced by the 2NR-FKE...

 

Edit: Wow, congrats both of you - The highest any of mine have been was 100k on my second D4D!

 

[Mooly]

The 1.33L was a Daihatsu design as far as I know. I realised that when I moved away from Toyota for servicing and started noticing Daihatsu parts on the paperwork for oil filter.

Scroll to the bottom of this page for details of issues.

1NR-FE Engine Details

Similarly when I had the Corolla T-Sport I was surprised to find the engine was developed by Yamaha and even the block casting had Yamaha cast into it.

It would be interesting to argue the point of cats and sensors failing due to high oil consumption against the Toyota information that 1L/1000km is an acceptable figure.   

 

[AisinW]

43 minutes ago, Mooly said:

The 1.33L was a Daihatsu design as far as I know. I realised that when I moved away from Toyota for servicing and started noticing Daihatsu parts on the paperwork for oil filter.

Scroll to the bottom of this page for details of issues.

1NR-FE Engine Details

Similarly when I had the Corolla T-Sport I was surprised to find the engine was developed by Yamaha and even the block casting had Yamaha cast into it.

It would be interesting to argue the point of cats and sensors failing due to high oil consumption against the Toyota information that 1L/1000km is an acceptable figure.   

 

DAihatsu is like Skoda of VW.   Toyota engines are sensitive to oil change interval especially if you do a lot of short trip, cold starts, city traffic, towing, heavy load (5 passangers), dusty roads and you need 5000 miles/8000 km oil change interval (written in the fine print of the manual).  Some engines are really bad like 1998-2002 1.8L, 2007-2009 Camry 2.4L from bad piston and piston rings design.   

Others like 2010-2014 Prius or Auris 1.8L may burn some oil if people do not use 0w-20 full synthetic oil at the beginning.  We have not so much issue in Europe but many Americans owner gets problems because they use cheap non synthetic 5w-30 from Quicklube $25 oil change. Many recommends 5000 miles intervals and Prius because most people do severe driving habit (short trips).