Highest miles

[Saxmaniac]

15 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Back to the topic, getting there slowly and if all goes as planned after new year Toyota will send me a new sticker 🤞🏁🏎

Brilliant! Do you have any oil consumption? 

[Mooly]

11 minutes ago, AisinW said:

Toyota engines are sensitive to oil change interval especially if you do a lot of short trip, cold starts, city traffic, towing, heavy load (5 passangers), dusty roads and you need 5000 miles/8000 km oil change interval (written in the fine print of the manual). 

The usage mine has had from new has been very unusual in the extreme but also should put it at the absolute number 1 spot for what is best for an engine based on what we are continually told. It has never done the usual short runs such as for shopping and that kind of thing, the majority (99%) of its use has seen anywhere from 10 to 15 miles per journey with 50+ mile runs once or twice a week.

 

The one thing I'm sure it hasn't had is the use of the recommended oils early on. I remember being told once by the service desk at Toyota (probably its 3rd service) that 5/30 semi synthetic was used when I specifically asked.

Given that this engine like any other should have clocked up millions of miles in development and testing it is hard to see how issues such as this oil burning come to light so readily once in customers hands. 

   

[AisinW]

I have no idea about 1.33L problem.  I know some Prius owner with 1.8L 2ZRE engines may solve oil consumption problems by using strong solvent that Toyota dealer use to unstick the piston rings if it is not too late.  Carbon sludge and caked burn oil in piston rings is usually the cause of oil consumption. There are some products like AutoRX plus that may  unstick the piston rings. Not sure about the alternatives we can find in europe. 

[TonyHSD]

1 hour ago, Saxmaniac said:

Brilliant! Do you have any oil consumption? 

Thanks. Oil consumption including few small oil leaks (marks) at the usual places all together 500-900ml between oil changes at 10000 miles intervals. The car was not consuming any oil at all until reached around 130k miles. I am using only Petronas syntium 0w20 since I had the car 140+k miles. Every second oil change I use STP engine flush and let the oil drains for at least 10-15min. Few times I have been using wynns oil stop leak and wynns friction modifier at 5k miles halfway oil life’s and these are really good additives too, makes the oil like new again without changing its viscosity, important for the hybrid engine Genuine oil filter too. 👍🏁

[AisinW]

In general in good running engines with proper maintenance, oil additives is not needed. Company like Mobil1, Castrol, Ravenol, Total know the best to keep the best formulation. Some oil additives actually can reduce the effectiveness of good oil.  Oil flush is very strong solvent and really bad to rubber seals in crankshaft and rear seals. The rear seals leaks is 10 hours Job. I don't mess around with oil flush  they are harmful and only needed if you have oil sludge issue or sticking piston rings.   Stop leak or high mileage oil contains rubber sweller and may be good for engine with leaks in all gaskets but not necessary in normal good sealed engines. MObil1 offer high milleage 0w-20, 5w-30, etc. in USA because many Americans do not want to spend money on changing seals when they start leaking, especially GM and Chrysler products. 

My Auris 2015 does not burn any drop of oil until now, but only at 70k miles now. Some engines burn oil and 1L every 5000 miles/8000 km since new are not rare. Engines with cylinder deactivation like V6 Honda, newer 1.4TSI VW, mazda ,etc will burn oil at one point because of vacuum imbalance pressure on the deactivated cylinders. The faster you go in highway, the faster the engine oil will be burned.  Engine oil burn increase dramatically when you cruise above 75mph in engine that burn oil. It is simply because the piston rings has to adapt the expansion in faster rate and stuck piston rings will not able to do it fast enough. I drove in Autobahn and often cruise at 130km/h and sometimes at 170km/. I changed oil at 15000 km/1 year interval as Toyota recommend for normal driving with Castrol  Edge, Mobil1, or Toyota genuine 0W-20.  it is relatively cheap, about €45 shipped.  

Since 2015, 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.5L, 3.5L D4S are really good, very rare case burn any oil after 100 000 miles. I cannot comment on other engine types.

Tony has 2010-2012 1.8 L that is famous burning oil at certain degrees. He takes care the car very well, and has no head gasket issue yet.  I respect his knowledge. 

[Saxmaniac]

Yeah, great respect to both of the above get their own hands dirty and get actively involved in maintenance. I know it's debatable but I'm doing 5k oil changes, ie one extra between dealer services. It's only at 37k so want to keep it good long term. Aim to change transmission fluid around 50k, and will do brake fluid in next year or so. Incidentally I did read that dot3 fluid has a lower temperature rating than dot4 but absorbs moisture more slowly, so probably a better fit with hybrid brakes

[AisinW]

2 hours ago, Saxmaniac said:

Yeah, great respect to both of the above get their own hands dirty and get actively involved in maintenance. I know it's debatable but I'm doing 5k oil changes, ie one extra between dealer services. It's only at 37k so want to keep it good long term. Aim to change transmission fluid around 50k, and will do brake fluid in next year or so. Incidentally I did read that dot3 fluid has a lower temperature rating than dot4 but absorbs moisture more slowly, so probably a better fit with hybrid brakes

Engine oil in europe usually are already good enough group III and IV unlike in other countries with mineral base group II base stock oil.  Not too bad if we do 10 000 miles interval. But 5000 miles interval is still a good number for most of us that often do short trips. I plan to do 5000 miles interval and use cheap 508/508 0w-20 certified oil like Mannol or Adinnol instead of Mobil1. It cost the same per year. I change transmission fluid every 60k miles, the lifetime fluid = under the end of warranty period.  I only check brake fluid every 5 years, it is still really good after 60 or 70k miles.  It is more important to open the brake calipers, lube the sliding pins with silicon grease and  clean the brake hardware every 5 years than brake fluid flush alone. We need to clean the intake manifold and EGR lines after 140k miles or so. Check this guy blog: https://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/maint100k/

[Saxmaniac]

I am using Petronas as recommended by Tony with genuine filters, not too expensive. A little item from car care nut that I'm going to do shortly is to crack the bleed nipples and repeat yearly, to avoid seizure

[AisinW]

Toyota 0w-20 is really good with high amount of Molybdenum, similar to Mobil1.  Any oil certified by ACEA C5, or manufacturer like 508/508, BMW17-LL, etc. are good oil. If it is not fully certified by anyone, I doubt them because no independent lab test them. For filter, any local european brands are great, Bosch, mann, Mahle, blueprint,etc. better than fake Toyota parts. It is a catridge filter, really easy to test thr solidity. Fake filter are very flimsy, you can squeeze them.