Yaris 2016 SE Cruise Control Help

[flash22]

I expanded the dates after 10/2017 Laos and ASEAN specs had cruise related ecu's are 0U350 and 0U360

i will have todo a bit more digging and see if i can find a vin for a sport packaged car

[AWoolford]

Aha... that's great news thank you.

What model were these cars called?  Might be lucky to find one in a scrapyard...

[Tintaglia]

25 minutes ago, AWoolford said:

Aha... that's great news thank you.

What model were these cars called?  Might be lucky to find one in a scrapyard...

You would have to add the cost of getting the immobilizer coded to the new ECU.  Roughly 100 UKP using an auto locksmith here.  

[AWoolford]

5 minutes ago, Tintaglia said:

You would have to add the cost of getting the immobilizer coded to the new ECU.  Roughly 100 UKP using an auto locksmith here.  

I wonder if that could be done with the mini vci and software that flash22 mentioned earlier?

[flash22]

I just had a look at the 4 door cars (yaris sedan) these have the same engine and gearbox combination, but they have cruise control

NSP150L-CEXGKV G high spec

[AWoolford]

Just now, flash22 said:

I just had a look at the 4 door cars (yaris sedan) these have the same engine and gearbox combination, but they have cruise control

NSP150L-CEXGKV G high spec

Excellent news.  I'll start looking.

[flash22]

Just now, AWoolford said:

I wonder if that could be done with the mini vci and software that flash22 mentioned earlier?

No you have to have security clearance and a legal version of techstream

 

[AWoolford]

Just now, flash22 said:

No you have to have security clearance and a legal version of techstream

 

Ok, so probably a dealer then.  From your experience would a dealer touch it if the ECU had been swapped?

[AWoolford]

Hi @flash22...

Its taken me a while to source components... but I'm getting there!

I have now replaced the clock spring (spiral loom) and fitted audio controls and cruise control.

I have also obtained a replacement ECU for the 1NRFE engine with "full options" although this is not yet fitted.  In the meantime my gf had a minor accident while reversing into her parking space, peeling the front bumper away from the left (drivers) side.

After pulling off the steering wheel and replacing the clock spring, I had to swap the steering position sensor using these instructions: https://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/learn/sas-calibration-on-toyota-yaris/

(These relate to a vehicle recall but the procedure is the same to what I did).

The reason for doing so is that the steering position sensor plug is different on the replacement unit.

I will also have to obtain a new airbag as the steering pad profile is different with the audio controls fitted.

However after reassembly I know have the Traction Control Slip indicator permanently illuminated.  Connecting pins 13 and 4 on the ODDC connector causes the Slip Indicator to show code 31.  I cannot clear it by pressing the brake pedal 8 times.

Do you know what Slip Indicator code 31 is as I don't know if it is related to the steering position sensor or the minor accident at the front end. 

I have attached a video showing all the lights in test mode.  I assume the fast blinks are "normal".  Slip Indication is 3-1.

Also of great interest is I notice the green cruise control light is flashing on the centre console (apparently shows normal?).  But it doesn't work - although maybe that is due to the fault on the traction control?

[flash22]

The slip light is on because the SAS (steering angle sensor) needs to be calibrated, you can do this in techstream as well as running the active tests and diagnostics

[AWoolford]

Is there a procedure using the pins without access to a techstream to clear the codes and reset the zero point?  I've tried the brake pedal 8 times without success.

[flash22]

Either techstream or a scan tool that does SAS - Flashing CC shows it has an issue what could be related to the SAS - cruise can only be set above 25 MPH

Yes the skid control is part of the CC...................

 

[AWoolford]

Thanks for this.  Just to confirm, Slip Light code 31 only means the SAS needs to be recalibrated?

[flash22]

You replaced the clockspring and sas and now have a slip light on.....................

 

SAS needs calibrating or has a fault

multiple systems use the SAS data including the CC and ABS

 

iirc code 31 is C1231 (obd2 code) "SAS malfunction"

What can be an incorrectly installed part (should be aligned and clipped to the clockspring) or its out of calibration

i will need to find that info tbh

 

Edit. Check Fuses ECU-IG 1 and ECU-B 1

[AWoolford]

"Incorrectly installed part"... this is what I was worried about.

I did follow the instructions (linked above) to exchange the old SAS onto the replacement Clock Spring.  However. I simply centred the clock spring with the orange flag showing as instructed relative to the alignment mark, then clipped the SAS to the back with the large tab to the top. (You can't put the large tab to the bottom as the cutout is a different size).  

However, centering the clock spring took about 2.5 turns to find the mid position.  I didn't do the same to the SAS as this seemed to turn an infinite number of turns in each direction.  Would it make any difference beyond 360 degrees, or should that also be turned 2.5 revolutions to find the centre position?

I figure aligning the zero point would only work if the part was correctly installed.

[flash22]

Ah, that may be the issue then the zero point can be set at the point you desire, you need Techstream or a scan tool to see that data / perform the zero

the SAS is digital, there are various types including hall effect, optical and rotary encoder systems

[AWoolford]

So I took it into the garage this evening who hooked up their computer and the code would not reset.  It showed SAS Fault so they consider that the SAS is faulty and needs replacement. Unfortunately it doesn't come as a standalone part - only as part of the spiral loom assembly, which (apart from being expensive) is also the wrong type for my modifications.
 

Am trying to find a second hand SAS now.  I honestly can't see if or how it was damaged as I swapped it over with great care... but I can't argue with the diagnostic.

[flash22]

You could try realigning it/ unplug it and plug it back in, check the 2 fuses i posted above

[AWoolford]

Quote

Edit. Check Fuses ECU-IG 1 and ECU-B 1

Good to know... Where would those be located?

Edit> The garage did try realigning / unplugging and also disassembly / cleaning.

[flash22]

The internal fuse box

https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-yaris-vitz-xp140-2011-2018-fuses-and-relay

[AWoolford]

Thanks for the link.  Unfortunately it's nothing like mine.  However I admit I was being lazy.  Sorry.  I attach some pictures.  The fuses for ECU-IG 1 and ECU-B 1 aren't listed in my car. However ABS No2 in the Engine compartment seems to cover the VSC and the Instrument Cluster fuse box ECU- IG No.1 covers a load of things including the Main Body ECU.  I have had all the covers off and all the fuses check out ok.

Here are some pics in case anyone else finds this useful:

[AWoolford]

Now I have the SAS out again and on the bench.  I discovered that if I simply disconnect it, I will get a flash code of 63 on the Slip Indicator. If it is connected the flash code is 31.  Still unable to reset the code, but I will disassemble it tomorrow and see if any pins are stressed.

Toyota only supply the clock spring and the sensor as one complete assembly.  Of course the clock spring is not the one I want so I would rather not order a new one.

If I cannot fix this one, I will go hunting the scrap yards again. 

Pics follow of the replacement clock spring salvaged from a scrap yard and my existing SAS which is now causing issues.

 

[AWoolford]

In the end I could not fix the sensor so went back to the scrapyards over the weekend and picked up an identical looking unit which included both the multi-pin clockwork loom and the correct SAS module.  This particular combination, I was told, had come from a Toyota Corolla.  Toyota themselves wanted about £150 (converted from Dirhams) for the Yaris standard parts (with the single-pin Clockwork loom and SAS).  The second hand Corolla parts cost me £20, so I took a risk and it paid off.

Undeterred by slightly the different part number on the SAS, but reassured by the fact it was the same colour and took the same connector, I fitted the combination straight to the Yaris this morning along with the correct Airbag.  It was an exact match mechanically.

Lo and behold, I was able to reset the zero point calibration using the paper clip method with no error codes and the Traction Control warning is now gone.  The steering feels a good deal lighter now as well.

Audio controls all work perfectly with the aftermarket android entertainment / nav.

Everything plugs in nicely, including the cruise control stalk which has its own 2-pin connector that comes out in the correct place on pins 1 and 2 of the 12 pin connector on the dashboard loom.  No inserting pins into multi-way connectors was required like some how-tos I have seen, and I buzzed it out with a meter just to make sure.

Sadly, despite the encouraging signs when the cruise control lamp lit in test mode, (see earlier post), the cruise will still not engage.  Therefore my next job will be to try swapping the ECU.

I will report my findings when done.

[flash22]

Thanks for the progress update, the only part with swapping the ecu is programming the vin and sorting out the security

A lot of part numbers may not be the same, but they may cross reference or even be the same physical part

These Asia built Yaris's seem to be related to the vios more than any EU Yaris or Jap Vitz

[AWoolford]

Good timing to see your reply.  Just come back in and sadly, the replacement ECU is a very different beast to the one that's fitted and the loom plugs are not compatible.

Pictures follow:  The metal ECU is the replacement I obtained which I was told came out of a 2019 Yaris with cruise.

There was also a smaller box under there with a single connector made by Denso.  Do you think that might be the security / immobiliser or something else like the driving support ECU assembly?