E120 subframe/ crossmember replacing by beginner?

[oldcodger]

Hi,

You can get to the anti roll bar bolts by just jacking up a little or on a pair of car ramps.

Not sure if you actually need to preload them like the wishbone bushes though if you put both wheels up onto some ramps that should do it.

Often find you can buy some decent second hand ramps  on the usual for sale sites.

They say a typical sign of worn anti roll bar bushes is a knocking when braking.

What about the engine mounts, did you have to undo any of them ?  Have you tried lubricating the bushes with a silicone spay or soap etc.

[gamingking]

Its not that I cant get under the car. I have a well in my garage (i dont know what its called in english - but I can get under my car, like they have in a repairshop). So its not that I cant get under the car, but rather that the bolts while installed to the subframe and in the car, are hidden between the subframe and the firewall or engine. Also I dont see this mentioned anywhere in the repair manual. The wishbones/control arms are mentioned as to be tighted while the wheels are on the ground, but not the stabiliser bar bushes.

I dont have any noises when braking. Its really only when I hit a speed bump with 30mph/50kmt. Its sound like when you sit down in an old sofa, but a bit more rubbery (and a bit metally - like a scraping sound).

I thought about giving the bushes some silicone spray but didnt know if it was a good idea. Like it could maybe make them to slippery or something dumb 😄

I removed the bolt from the back engine mount because I thought It was in the way, but as I went through I saw it had no purpase to do so. Removing it made the engine drop a tiny bit, so that I could not reseat the bolt into the mount. Maybe 5mm drop. So once the subframe was off I reinstalled the bolt.

[oldcodger]

Hi,

We call it an inspection Pit.

Assume your 2002 is the new model type and the same as our 2006 model, if so then you can get to the antiroll bar bushes as mentioned, however we had to get at the  two rear bolts from the underside  of the rear side of the frame and the front ones from the front,  just cannot remember if we  used a socket or standard/ratchet spanner on the bolts. With a torch we could see the bolt head, though you have to get right in there.

As I understand things, silicone spray is good for rubber, though it may not get right inside those wishbone bolts and rubbers.

One other thing it could be is the suspension strut top mounts which are a thick rubber mounting and bush/bearing,  all the work you did might have disturbed them ?

Should be easy to test by the usual suspension test of bouncing the wings.

[gamingking]

Ya, doesnt make any noises when bouncing the corners of the car. But I also had the thought it could be those, but I just dont think it is.

my 02 STW (E120) is pre-facelift, if thats what your asking?

I just cant seem to get to them while they are installed in the car. And as said the repair manual does not mention to tighten them after.

[gamingking]

So a bit of an update. So I tried going through all the bolts and nuts and made sure to tighten them to spec. I also tried using some silicone spray for the stabiliser bushing. Went for a drive, and the problem seem to have gone.. Or at least its only there if I really hammer it over the bumps. So I would say the problem was 90%ish gone.

But something odd struck me. When I was doing this the car had already been driven and was warm. So it was cold.. issue still there. The car gets warm because of the drive, I get home retighten the bolts and nuts, give it a shower of silicone spray.. go for a drive in the warm car and the issue is gone. So was it because it was what I just did, or because it was warm.. hmm. The reason I stumble on this thought is because my wife had said that she thought the issue was worst when the car was cold. She said this right after I did the initial repair. But I just said that that wouldnt make sense.. as there arent any fluids or metals in the suspension that gets heated up. Sure the engine gets warm and that heats up the engine compartment but.. well that should really be some that would affect the suspension.
So I took a test drive after she said that. But I done think it let it get warm enough, because as said... Yesterday the issue was apprently gone. I thought it was because of the silicone spray etc.. But now I am thinking that the wife is right.

But that doesnt make any sense? does it?

[oldcodger]

So difficult to say being remote ....

Have you replaced the wishbones with bushes and ball joints?

Could be the suspension struts ? or even the little drop links between the strut and the sway bar, they are common wear items.

Still a rubbery noise rather than a metalic clunk, which could be brake pad rattle ?

If you go over a bump and the noise its there, go over it again , but this time put some gentle pressure on the brakes, so the pads are under slight load and cannot rattle.

Can get quiet a few rattles on mine when going over big potholes, but generally quiet.

[RabButler]

Oh, I don't know. My wife is right quite often.