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Posted

Guys I am in trouble . I have !NZ- FE engine thats consuming a whole oil sump after 650 km. The mechanic changed stem seals, changed rings, resleeved the block but its not working . Did anyway ever had such a problem and managed to solve it . Guys help have lost a lot of cash doing all the above but came to nought. The mechanic seems to compeletely lost as what the problem is . After the above was done the engine is making a noise 


Posted

Wow! That’s less then 400 miles. You must have a blue haze always behind you. I am no professional mechanic either, but after that work I can only think of something causing pressure in the lower engine forcing oil up.

I sure others can help better then me.

Posted
27 minutes ago, Catlover said:

Wow! That’s less then 400 miles. You must have a blue haze always behind you. I am no professional mechanic either, but after that work I can only think of something causing pressure in the lower engine forcing oil up.

I sure others can help better then me.

thanks mate . something in the lower engine like what . i am no mechanic my field is electrical 

Posted

A bit late i know but, did you remove the exhaust and drain any oil from it, if the cat is covered (internally) in oil it will smoke

Posted
40 minutes ago, flash22 said:

A bit late i know but, did you remove the exhaust and drain any oil from it, if the cat is covered (internally) in oil it will smoke

Hie thanks but does that translate to high oil consumption?

 


Posted

Has a compression test or cylinder leak down test been done, oil can only go 2 ways burning it or dropping it, it sounds like that engine is done if the bottom end is rattling, time for another engine or another car

Posted
9 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Has a compression test or cylinder leak down test been done, oil can only go 2 ways burning it or dropping it, it sounds like that engine is done if the bottom end is rattling, time for another engine or another car

What do you mean bottom end ? Will check with mechanic if he did compression test - let me call him now

 

Posted

More than likely if it's a thud or a knock type sound, if the oil pump has failed nothing will be getting oil, it will burn the oil and overheat very quickly

Posted
34 minutes ago, flash22 said:

More than likely if it's a thud or a knock type sound, if the oil pump has failed nothing will be getting oil, it will burn the oil and overheat very quickly

Hie thanks- engine is not overheating and is it possible to travel 650 kms with a failed oil pump ?

 

Posted
14 minutes ago, kudakwashe said:

Hie thanks- engine is not overheating and is it possible to travel 650 kms with a failed oil pump ?

 

no its not the oil pump

id refer it back to the mechanic that took you money for all those parts and work , if the engine was really re sleeved and new rings then it needs a running in period to bed in the new piston rings 

you would assume its all been checked but blocked breathers may cause it too 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, steveo3002 said:

no its not the oil pump

id refer it back to the mechanic that took you money for all those parts and work , if the engine was really re sleeved and new rings then it needs a running in period to bed in the new piston rings 

you would assume its all been checked but blocked breathers may cause it too 

 

When it eventually runs in can it stop consuming oil ? Is it possible you give me your whatsapp number so that you can listen to the engine and hear if bottom end is rattling

 

Posted

its possible yes.. fresh rings may use oil until bedded in , theres different thoughts on this , some folk baby the engine others drive it hard in efforts to bed the rings in 

what does the mechanic say after taking your money and its just the same?   

Posted
Just now, steveo3002 said:

its possible yes.. fresh rings may use oil until bedded in , theres different thoughts on this , some folk baby the engine others drive it hard in efforts to bed the rings in 

what does the mechanic say after taking your money and its just the same?   

He said he did compression tests and were perfect. the parts i bought him direct from toyota SA. i am based in zimbabwe. the rings normally bed in after how long. have travelled 850kms so far 

Posted

people say different things ...some say almost instant within 100 miles , others say 1000 miles

the cylinder's needed to be honed to the correct pattern ...its slightly rough finish that the rings run against , after xx miles the finish is worn down and will no longer bed the rings

in an ideal world the mechanic would tell you how to run it in 

do you believe he worked on it like he says

 


Posted
8 minutes ago, steveo3002 said:

people say different things ...some say almost instant within 100 miles , others say 1000 miles

the cylinder's needed to be honed to the correct pattern ...its slightly rough finish that the rings run against , after xx miles the finish is worn down and will no longer bed the rings

in an ideal world the mechanic would tell you how to run it in 

do you believe he worked on it like he says

 

Not sure whetheer to trust but looked very concerned on what may be wrong. thing is he sent block to be done somewhere as well as the head, stem seals change . any of them could have done a shoddy job so thought there was a way of knowing where the problem so as to pinpoint the culprit. will wait and see how it does after 1000kms 

 

Posted

If it has good compression it shouldn't be burning the oil - any oil dripping from the car ? Or sprayed under the car ? Any oil in the intake ?

Posted
3 minutes ago, flash22 said:

If it has good compression it shouldn't be burning the oil - any oil dripping from the car ? Or sprayed under the car ? Any oil in the intake ?

Under the car there is no oil . spray under the car will have to check as well as the intake because never checked

 

Posted
Just now, kudakwashe said:

Under the car there is no oil . spray under the car will have to check as well as the intake because never checked

 

what about your  number so that i send audio of the engine running

 

Posted
3 hours ago, kudakwashe said:

What do you mean bottom end ? Will check with mechanic if he did compression test - let me call him now

 

The bottom end - it’s called the crankshaft, it’s very low down in the engine (hence “bottom end”), it runs the whole length of the engine from front end to the rear. The crankshaft holds four, what are called, con rods, one for each of the pistons, the pistons are made to go up and down in the “block”. You said the mechanic says the block (that’s the part of the engine that the pistons go up and down) has been “resleeved” and new rings fitted to the pistons. He maybe also put new pistons in as well, or maybe not.

If the bearings on the crankshaft where the lower end of the conrod is fixed have worn very badly you will get a real bad knocking sound. That can also happen if the “main” bearings holding the crankshaft in place also wear badly - heavy knocking is heard.

The compression test mentioned is done from the top of the engine, through the spark plug hole (if petrol engine). Usually one cylinder is tested at a time.  This tests that when the engine is revolved and the piston comes up with cylinder head valves closed, the pressure is high and “equal” (within reason) across all 4 cylinders. If one or more cylinder pressure is low that can mean worn pistons and/or piston rings, or worn valve guides and/or valve seatings, you mentioned new valve seals fitted, resleeved, new rings so all associated with above.

Hope that helps.

Posted
4 minutes ago, Catlover said:

The bottom end - it’s called the crankshaft, it’s very low down in the engine (hence “bottom end”), it runs the whole length of the engine from front end to the rear. The crankshaft holds four, what are called, con rods, one for each of the pistons, the pistons are made to go up and down in the “block”. You said the mechanic says the block (that’s the part of the engine that the pistons go up and down) has been “resleeved” and new rings fitted to the pistons. He maybe also put new pistons in as well, or maybe not.

If the bearings on the crankshaft where the lower end of the conrod is fixed have worn very badly you will get a real bad knocking sound. That can also happen if the “main” bearings holding the crankshaft in place also wear badly - heavy knocking is heard.

The compression test mentioned is done from the top of the engine, through the spark plug hole (if petrol engine). Usually one cylinder is tested at a time.  This tests that when the engine is revolved and the piston comes up with cylinder head valves closed, the pressure is high and “equal” (within reason) across all 4 cylinders. If one or more cylinder pressure is low that can mean worn pistons and/or piston rings, or worn valve guides and/or valve seatings, you mentioned new valve seals fitted, resleeved, new rings so all associated with above.

Hope that helps.

thanks let me call him

 

Posted
5 minutes ago, Catlover said:

The bottom end - it’s called the crankshaft, it’s very low down in the engine (hence “bottom end”), it runs the whole length of the engine from front end to the rear. The crankshaft holds four, what are called, con rods, one for each of the pistons, the pistons are made to go up and down in the “block”. You said the mechanic says the block (that’s the part of the engine that the pistons go up and down) has been “resleeved” and new rings fitted to the pistons. He maybe also put new pistons in as well, or maybe not.

If the bearings on the crankshaft where the lower end of the conrod is fixed have worn very badly you will get a real bad knocking sound. That can also happen if the “main” bearings holding the crankshaft in place also wear badly - heavy knocking is heard.

The compression test mentioned is done from the top of the engine, through the spark plug hole (if petrol engine). Usually one cylinder is tested at a time.  This tests that when the engine is revolved and the piston comes up with cylinder head valves closed, the pressure is high and “equal” (within reason) across all 4 cylinders. If one or more cylinder pressure is low that can mean worn pistons and/or piston rings, or worn valve guides and/or valve seatings, you mentioned new valve seals fitted, resleeved, new rings so all associated with above.

Hope that helps.

MAY I HAVE YOUR NUMBER SO THAT I RECORD ENGINE RUNNING AND YOU HEAR IF THAT NOISE IS THERE

Posted

You can add a recording (video with sound) on here, that way all can hear what’s going on.

Do a video recording with sound and use the Add Files, or Other Media. I have Added Files successively but never used Other Media.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Catlover said:

You can add a recording (video with sound) on here, that way all can hear what’s going on.

Do a video recording with sound and use the Add Files, or Other Media. I have Added Files successively but never used Other Media.

OKAY WILL DO BUT MAY TAKE TYM BECOZ NOT ALLOWED PHONES IN PLANT WHERE I WORK. TALKED TO HIM SAIN HE CHANGED MAIN BEARINGS BUT THE CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS WERE OK  SO DIDNT CHANGE 

 

Posted
19 minutes ago, kudakwashe said:

OKAY WILL DO BUT MAY TAKE TYM BECOZ NOT ALLOWED PHONES IN PLANT WHERE I WORK. TALKED TO HIM SAIN HE CHANGED MAIN BEARINGS BUT THE CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS WERE OK  SO DIDNT CHANGE 

 

That’s ok, whenever you can, we not going anywhere.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Catlover said:

That’s ok, whenever you can, we not going anywhere.

thanks for all the the efforts so far  . will send the video 

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