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Car jack


Black Black
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Hi i wander if someone can tell me where can I jack my toyota yaris up, there is no jack that came with this model,its a 2014 trend 1.3, can I buy a jack for it,or can I use scissors jack that I have ,and I have a trolley jack, we're do I place the jack I don't want to damage anything, thanks. 

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A trolley jack may also be positioned on the pinch weld, first picture, where the two notches are. That rear recommended lifting point for a trolley jack, second picure, is virtually impossible to use without a very high lift jack.

I would never use a scissor jack unless in a roadside wheel changing or other emergency situation.

Never rely on a jack alone to support a vehicle if working on it.

Screenshot (51).png

Screenshot (52).png

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Can anybody see what the guy removing the wheel is doing wrong?

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44 minutes ago, Stivino said:

Can anybody see what the guy removing the wheel is doing wrong?

I presume you think that loosening the wheel nuts without having the jack in position first is wrong?

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I've glued a piece of towelling to the top of my jack. I don't like metal to metal contact as I reckon it damages the paint, resulting in rust.

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3 minutes ago, bathtub tom said:

I've glued a piece of towelling to the top of my jack. I don't like metal to metal contact as I reckon it damages the paint, resulting in rust.

In over 50 years of motoring, I've never had to do a roadside change of a wheel. When I change my wheels from summer to winter and back again, I use a Trolley jack and the same block of 4" x 2" that I've used for years! No damage at all.

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55 minutes ago, Stivino said:

Can anybody see what the guy removing the wheel is doing wrong?

Chocks wedging the wheels so the car doesn’t roll when lifting.

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56 minutes ago, Stivino said:

Can anybody see what the guy removing the wheel is doing wrong?

He is loosening the wheel nuts by lifting the wheel brace upwards.

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4 minutes ago, Bernard Foy said:

He is loosening the wheel nuts by lifting the wheel brace upwards.

Exactly.  He's making it hard for himself, he should be pushing down on it, thereby using gravity and his weight instead of relying on just muscle power.

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6 minutes ago, Stivino said:

Exactly.  He's making it hard for himself, he should be pushing down on it, thereby using gravity and his weight instead of relying on just muscle power.

 

6 minutes ago, Stivino said:

Exactly.  He's making it hard for himself, he should be pushing down on it, thereby using gravity and his weight instead of relying on just muscle power.

Work smarter, not harder 💡👍

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24 minutes ago, Bernard Foy said:

He is loosening the wheel nuts by lifting the wheel brace upwards.

For safety reasons they had shown that way, in an event of tool jump off the nut and you are on with great force towards ground consequences can be painful., although I do myself your way as is much easier 👍

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For safety reasons?  If the wheel brace slips when you're pulling it towards you, the consequences will be more severe than when pushing it away from you.

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2 hours ago, Stivino said:

For safety reasons?  If the wheel brace slips when you're pulling it towards you, the consequences will be more severe than when pushing it away from you.

If you step on with your feet and push towards the ground yes, your way is safer, but if you pull towards you and tool jump off you will move backwards but will keep the tool in hands most likely, do by hands towards the ground and that thing jumps off and you will hit the ground with your hand and will be painful as hell, each to their own as people say, I do both ways carefully. 👍

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After years of doing wheel nuts up as tight as possible “to be safe” I started using a torque wrench. To my surprise 103Nm isn’t all that tight and undoing them with the wheel brace, or a 3/8” breaker bar is quite easy. Pulling upwards is then not an issue.

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@Black Black

The factory scissor jack lives under the front passenger seat - slide the seat forward - remove its plastic cover (from the rear foot well) - you may have to turn the jack a few times to remove it from its mount - the handle lives in the boot

5 hours ago, Stivino said:

Can anybody see what the guy removing the wheel is doing wrong?

you can exert more force pushing than pulling, plus if some donut has done them up with a windy gun you need to be able to put your body weight in/on to it

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22 hours ago, Stivino said:

Can anybody see what the guy removing the wheel is doing wrong?

It might well be a lady!

Maybe just illustrating which direction to slacken the nuts rather than best practice?

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On 7/4/2021 at 5:53 PM, jonquirk said:

To my surprise 103Nm isn’t all that tight ...

Also, never put grease or copper paste (or the like) on the bolts or studs. You'll then overtighten (stretch) them even easier!

I once helped a neighbor remove a wheel, using a 1 meter breaker bar plus a 2 meter steel pipe extension to loosen those wheel bolts. My torque wrench goes tot 250 Nm and could not loosen them!

On inspection, they were ~ 5 millimeter longer than the "standard  bolts" and the threads almost stripped ... 😲

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13 hours ago, Thermal said:

 

Also, never put grease or copper paste (or the like) on the bolts or studs. You'll then overtighten (stretch) them even easier!

I once helped a neighbor remove a wheel, using a 1 meter breaker bar plus a 2 meter steel pipe extension to loosen those wheel bolts. My torque wrench goes tot 250 Nm and could not loosen them!

On inspection, they were ~ 5 millimeter longer than the "standard  bolts" and the threads almost stripped ... 😲

I was taking the wheel off a tractor trailer once, and it was proving impossible to shift the wheel nuts. On closer inspection I discovered that the threads were left handed 🤭🤔.🤣.

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It’s quite common to have left hand threads on the left hand wheels on larger vehicles, as right hand threads can loosen in use. I had them on a Ford Transit and I only needed to tighten them gently; a couple of miles later I would need to stand on the breaker bar to loosen them again.

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57 minutes ago, jonquirk said:

It’s quite common to have left hand threads on the left hand wheels on larger vehicles, as right hand threads can loosen in use.

The same with wheel bearings. I helped a neighbour who'd struggled all morning to remove the L/H/R retaining nut. That doesn't explain the LH thread on the RH rear wheel of a Kia Pride I had. I destroyed the bearing the first time I tried to take the brake drum off!

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On 7/4/2021 at 4:53 PM, jonquirk said:

To my surprise 103Nm isn’t all that tight

I thought that but if that's the recommendation, that's what they get.

Without checking, can't remember, it is acceptable to oil/grease the threads but there is an allowance for torque reduction to compensate.

And the wheel nuts on my old Morris Minor are 36lbf ft torque(49Nm)! Yes, smaller studs and wheels/tyres but it never seemed enough. No lost wheels yet.

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2 hours ago, bathtub tom said:

That doesn't explain the LH thread on the RH rear wheel of a Kia Pride I had.

The thread direction is to prevent it 'walking' off, which is usually the opposite direction to that people expect (by drag from friction).

It's worth googling it - which is what I did when one of my bike pedals unscrewed itself and I was thinking WTF?

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