What do I need to know?

[Stuno1]

I’m looking at a aygo to run for 6 to 9 months and hopefully not lose too much money while I wait for the market to come back down on other cars. I have owned toyota’s in the past and they have always been reliable. Is there anything I need to check for with these? 

Clearly brake and tire condition, service history, mileage, number of owners etc are all being considered.

Looking at ‘1.0 VVT-i x-pression x-wave 5dr’. 

Cheers 

Stu

[Catlover]

Known for water getting into boot area so a careful check around that area.

[Guest]

11 hours ago, Catlover said:

Known for water getting into boot area so a careful check around that area.

Stuno1 is looking at a mark 2 x-pression x-wave and the mark 2 Aygo is much less likely to have a boot water leak than the mark 1's which were notorious for it.

[Stuno1]

22 minutes ago, PetrolDave said:

Stuno1 is looking at a mark 2 x-pression x-wave and the mark 2 Aygo is much less likely to have a boot water leak than the mark 1's which were notorious for it.

That’s good to know! They seem to be pretty bullet proof. 

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Stuno1 said:

That’s good to know! They seem to be pretty bullet proof. 

My mark 2 x-clusiv has been trouble free, very happy with it.

[mrfixer]

Solid little cars.  Engines and transmissions are relatively trouble free. Like any city car expect fairly rapid wear on clutches and front discs/pads and front tyres. The clutch operation is rather primitive and lacks progression - it needs to be manually adjusted (very simple) at each service but this often gets overlooked.

Brake discs/pads are the same as on the Mk 1 and relatively cheap (but stick to premium brands rather than eBay cheapies).

The Mk2's still suffer from boot leaks but far less common than Mk1.  There is a bit of an issue whereby water gets in around the high level brake light and sits inside the hatch pressing. Doesn't get into the car interior but I think will cause rust long term.

[Stuno1]

Bought the car today and all seems spot on. Only thing is the clutch bite point is very high. The car is only on 25k. Everything else seems fine. 

[mrfixer]

39 minutes ago, Stuno1 said:

Bought the car today and all seems spot on. Only thing is the clutch bite point is very high. The car is only on 25k. Everything else seems fine. 

Easy enough to drop the bite point. Have an assistant lift the clutch pedal up against the stop. In the engine compartment, reach down with your right hand between the Battery tray and A/C pipes and under the gear selector cables. You should be able to feel the big fluted plastic 'nut' on the clutch cable. To drop the bite point rotate it CLOCKWISE (assuming you are standing in front of the car looking at the windscreen). One complete turn drops the bite point by about 6mm.  When completed, have your assistant release the pedal and then try it a few times with engine on to see how it feels.

[Stuno1]

Had a poke around in the engine bay and can’t don’t the elusive nut. I’ll do some googling and see if I can find any images. 

Might be because I don’t have someone lifting the clutch pedal. I’ll check again shortly with the clutch pedal lifted. 

[Stuno1]

Nope, having the clutch raised didn’t make it any more visible. Where should I be looking? 
 

[Vandals01]

6 hours ago, Stuno1 said:

Nope, having the clutch raised didn’t make it any more visible. Where should I be looking? 
 

A plastic nut beneath the heater hose.  In your picture, it would be underneath the Aluminium pipe / Hose that is to the left of the red Battery cap.

This video is for Gen 1, but Gen 2's position is almost identical.

 

[rajivrattna]

I do not know if the models you included in your query are manual or automatics (also called MMT or AMT depending on which car maker), I would definitely avoid the model with MMT transmission. They are the worst transmission that Toyota acquired with built in high failure rate and with very expensive repairs. Apologise if you allready knew that and if the models you seek are only the manual ones. Besides that and a few small things like water leak spots, the engine and the rest of the car is bullet proof, cheap to run and easy to service and repair.

[Stuno1]

2 hours ago, rajivrattna said:

I do not know if the models you included in your query are manual or automatics (also called MMT or AMT depending on which car maker), I would definitely avoid the model with MMT transmission. They are the worst transmission that Toyota acquired with built in high failure rate and with very expensive repairs. Apologise if you allready knew that and if the models you seek are only the manual ones. Besides that and a few small things like water leak spots, the engine and the rest of the car is bullet proof, cheap to run and easy to service and repair.

I did used to own a 58 reg auris with the mmt transmission. It was an absolute pig! Liked the car but the gear shifts were dreadful. They Argo we bought is manual. 

[mrfixer]

On 8/8/2021 at 7:58 PM, Stuno1 said:

Nope, having the clutch raised didn’t make it any more visible. Where should I be looking? 
 

Under the two brake selector cables. I can see the gear selector cable gaiters clearly in your photo.  Reach down, touch them and follow them back to the cable retaining bracket. Then reach behind the bracket and under the gear selector cables. The plastic nut is there. Its hard to describe but really easy and obvious once you've done it. 

[bobby boy]

Access is difficult from above, especially if A/C is fitted. Better to go from underneath or the side when n.s.f wheel removed. Before the plastic nut can be turned it has to be pulled clear of a small pin which locks it after adjustment. A garage used to working on Aygo pug 107/8 or c1 should be able to do it in minutes.

[mrfixer]

10 hours ago, bobby boy said:

Access is difficult from above, especially if A/C is fitted. Better to go from underneath or the side when n.s.f wheel removed. Before the plastic nut can be turned it has to be pulled clear of a small pin which locks it after adjustment. A garage used to working on Aygo pug 107/8 or c1 should be able to do it in minutes.

If the car is up on the lift then you can reach up from underneath. Personally I have no trouble from above, and I'm a big bloke with big hands.  You don't have to pull the nut clear of the locking pin - that would be difficult. If an assistant lifts the clutch pedal up to its stop then that causes the cable outer (with the nut) to move back from the bracket. The nut is then clear of the locking pin and there is no load on it. It should turn very easily with the fingers.

[nathanharvey]

On 8/5/2021 at 1:56 AM, Stuno1 said:

I’m looking at a aygo to run for 6 to 9 months and hopefully not lose too much money while I wait for the market to come back down on other cars. I have owned toyota’s in the past and they have always been reliable. Is there anything I need to check for with these? 

Clearly brake and tire condition, service history, mileage, number of owners etc are all being considered.

Looking at ‘1.0 VVT-i x-pression x-wave 5dr’. 

Cheers 

Stu

Yes, it’s for sure better to know its history first right? Basically, there is rapidcarcheck.co.uk where you can check it all out. It’s mileage, previous owners and everything. Even its mot reports. I still have a code from a bulk pack purchase from them. You can direct message me if you want?

[Stuno1]

Really good of you but bought the car already and happy with it.