12 v battery flat

[Guest]

11 hours ago, Cyker said:

Raar! Zombie thread revival! *ahem*

I saw this on dashcamtalk forum and it reminded me of this thread!

It's a purpose-built dashcam buffer battery that charges off the 12v. Still quite pricey, but seems quite highly regarded among the people that have bought one on the forum!

https://www.power-core.co.uk/products/6200lfp.html

 

That's how my Dashcam is powered. Not that particular Battery. Fixed under the front passenger seat.

The only drawback I have found is it's cost and I sometimes forget to switch the Battery on.

Perfect for parking mode, doesn't affect the car's 12v Battery which is not designed to power a Dashcam in parking mode.

[Derek.w]

I solved my flat Battery problem first by charging it every day

then by fitting a 20 watt solar panel directly to Battery with fuse and blocking diode.

blocking diode prevents battery supplying power to usb ports that are not used.

I have used this system for over 2 month & its not required to unplug solar panel just remove it from dash when driving.

[Dala]

What solar panel do you use?

[Derek.w]

Solar panel specifcations any make will do 20 watt 12 volt operating voltage max voltage is proballby 21 volts open circuit but Battery pulls it down.

Do not go above 20 watts without fitting a solar regulator controller.

Leads are to short need extending 

If using aligator clips for attaching to Battery I recomend removing these before using vehicle.

I fitted my leads via 5 amp fuse and eylet connectors to Battery + terminal post and earth to chassie.

At night I noticed power led on panel was on so it was drawing power out of battery so fitted a blocking diode in positive lead. You may not have this problem but I incluided it so you can check it out it still works without diode but not as effective.

Battery is under rear seat on drivers side remove Negative first insulate tools with tape so no risk of positive post shorting on frame of seat.

Or have a compitent person carry out this work I also fitted a electrical plug & socket at this end so I can dissconect the wire running from rear seat fo front window where I just place solar panel on dashboard with some fabric undereath to stop scratching the plastics.

Hope this helps.

 

[Dala]

Can you specify the brand and manufacturer of the solar panel?

[Derek.w]

I purchesed mine from onbuy.com uk but eBay and amason sell 12 volt 20 watt solar panels

[Derek.w]

On 8/31/2021 at 6:46 PM, Roy124 said:

Tina, welcome to the forum and join the club.  "the car has failed to start twice now (11/8 and today) after only a few days not being used."  This sound exactly like most here have experienced.  You say after only a few days not being used.  This is only half the story.  The important thing is how was it used on the previous trip and ones before that.  It doesn't have an alternator so what would provide a good charge in a few minutes in another car might not be sufficient in the hybrid.

If you had done a run of say 20 minutes that might be sufficient time for the main battery to recharge the 12v battery.  If it was just a quick trip to the shops even on several days that might not be sufficient.  Toyota's advice it to put the car in Ready mode for an hour a week.  The engine will start and stop several times during this period but will ensure a charged 12v battery.  You must of course be with the car during this period.

Are they all like this?  Possibly not.  You mention the demonstrator had a flat battery.  Your car may also have had similar battery issues after build and before delivery.  This could lead to premature cell failure.  In my case, after one AA call out and two further flats, the dealer changed the battery and installed a 52Ah instead of the original 45ah.

This also raises the question of how you car might fare when you go on  a fortnights holiday.  Some of us have bought battery boosters .  We have also invested in a battery charger with CTEK MX5 being a favourite.  This is a conditioning float charger and can be left connected when the car is not in use.  That of course assumes you have access to a power point.

 

[Derek.w]

I tied a solar panel trickal charger using aligator clips directly to batery under the seat it woud not charge my calcium Battery type EFB rated at around 40 to 45 amps as its has no idetifcation marks just a manufactured date stamp.

EFB refers to Battery class for stop start batterys.

I first used a mains charger connecting directly to Battery using crockodile clips before taking car out on days I was using it.

Then fitted a battery monitor so I have a idia of battery charge status via 5 amp fuse

Then moved over to a 20 watt solar panel max voltage 21 or 22 volts and connected it in parallal with the 5 amp fuse.

I know the 12 socket was a no go on any toyota the ODBII port connector pins 4 and 16 well I wanted a more direct route than this I prefer using jump start terminals under bonnet than ODBII port.

I will admit I have not refitted the rear seat plastic cover in case I change things again

Note on reconnecting battery I had door open & mobile phone  with me only thing I had to sort out was choose radio transmitter type and the options to ignore are those without signal then press retune button. 

Phone quick shortcut needed to be resolected and that it.

[Derek.w]

dont use OBDII conector for charging go directly to Battery or

use Junp start connector under bonnet but to be honest I prefere the direct rout to Battery regardless of if it mains or solar charging.

Note some manuals state 5 amp charging current but this is to high on my Battery type a calcium 12volt 40 or 45 amp max battery charging rate is 2 amps as quoted by replacment battery manufacturers.

[Hornet3D]

On 9/17/2021 at 10:51 PM, Cyker said:

If you're going to run a dashcam in 'sentry mode', it is a good idea to plug it into a USB power bank, and plug the car's usb charger into the power bank's charging port.

That way the car will charge the power bank while you drive, and it will power the dashcam when it's off, and there is no way the dashcam can drain the 12V battery. If you leave it too long it'll just discharge the powerbank and stop recording.

Just make sure you get one that can supply power while charging, and get a good quality one - You don't want one of those nasty chinese ebay specials catching fire on a hot day...!

A colleague uses his jump-starter as a power bank for his dashcam as it has USB power sockets - His is quite a fiddly setup tho' as it won't charge and supply power at the same time, so he has to keep swapping leads around when he gets in and out of the car... i.e. plug the dashcam and powerbank into his car USB to charge when he gets in, then when he gets out unplug both from the car and plug the dashcam into the powerbank... Personally I think I'd get annoyed doing that all the time!

 

 

 

I use a power bank for the same purpose although mine is not permanently connected as I do not use the sentry/ parking mode on a regular basis.  I just add the power bank on the occasions I feel it would be a good idea to run the parking mode such as away from home.

[Roy124]

On cheap and nasty Chinese powerbanks, I use two, about £30 each, as UPS for my router and security cam base station. 

Both run cold and both have been in constant use for over 2 years. I have not tried a simulated long time mains outage or checked the temperature during a deep cycle operation such as you would experience in a car. 

[CPN]

15 hours ago, Derek.w said:

don't use OBDII connector for charging go directly to battery or

There is no reason not to use the OBDII connector...

Check out this thread here and here ...

[Derek.w]

I dont fancy passing around 1.2 amps through pins on a OBDII conector

its the cost of replacing the connector plus the pins are underated for that ampage in my opinion.

[CPN]

52 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

I dont fancy passing around 1.2 amps through pins on a OBDII conector

its the cost of replacing the connector plus the pins are underated for that ampage in my opinion.

Did you even read the charts on the official OBDII connector that I pointed you too? The OBDII pins are not as feeble as you seem to think!

Your opinion is wrong because factually those are industry-wide standard specifications for OBDII ports Europe wide... (at least - if not worldwide)

To save you the bother, I've cut and pasted the relevant part here again...

"Vehicle connector terminal 16 is designated Unswitched Vehicle Battery Positive and must be implemented in the vehicle connector. This terminal must be connected directly (i.e., unswitched) to the DC Positive of the vehicle's Battery. This connection does not preclude the use of a fuse or other circuit protection elements. This circuit may be grouped with other similar circuits. This terminal must be able to supply a minimum of 4.0 A."

[Derek.w]

Thanks for info on data sheet IOS 15031-3

I see it can handle 4 amps,

It also states that it is not fused just a direct feed from Battery.

I wont use it as items designed to plug into it will have some other form of protection built in.

Have you considerd the wear and tear to using this socket not just mechanical but electrical.

Electrical as in a small spark jumping across every time you make & brake the contact of plug and the pins you are using.

[Derek.w]

we are also presuming IOS 15031-3 was fully implimented.

This is not always the case.

Wiring harness current carring capacity of the wires are derated depending how many are in the harness for a given cross section on wire.

[CPN]

I give up. What utter rubbish!

[preperationlaunch]

6 hours ago, Derek.w said:

Thanks for info on data sheet IOS 15031-3

I see it can handle 4 amps,

It also states that it is not fused just a direct feed from battery.

I wont use it as items designed to plug into it will have some other form of protection built in.

Have you considerd the wear and tear to using this socket not just mechanical but electrical.

Electrical as in a small spark jumping across every time you make & brake the contact of plug and the pins you are using.

Incorrect, it says that the specification does not preclude the use of a fuse or other circuit protection elements. It makes no reference to it being unfused.

You are confusing it with unswitched, which means permanently live.

The Yaris Gen3 has a 7.5A fuse on the OBD-II bus. I don't have a Gen4 diagram to hand, but I'd put money on it that it's the same.

5 hours ago, Derek.w said:

we are also presuming IOS 15031-3 was fully implimented.

This is not always the case.

Wiring harness current carring capacity of the wires are derated depending how many are in the harness for a given cross section on wire.

You can assume that it would be, in order to be compliant with the OBD-II specification. It wouldn't be good if diagnostic readers powered over the OBDII bus kept setting light to cars that were underspecced on the wiring.

[Derek.w]

not underspecced for mfg needs underspecced for non mfg add on,s

[preperationlaunch]

10 hours ago, Derek.w said:

not underspecced for mfg needs underspecced for non mfg add on,s

It needs to implement a minimum of 4 amps of current capacity to be compliant with specification.

How would Toyota effectively skimp on that? 'Oh no mate, it'll be fine if we de-rate it to 2 amps and shove a 7.5A fuse on it anyway'

There has to be short circuit protection across all the pins too for good measure.

 

[Dala]

risk is always possible

 

[preperationlaunch]

2 hours ago, Dala said:

risk is always possible

 

It's disingenuous to not include why it happened.

That was a Tacoma with a bad ground, and the Scangauge happened to be the path to ground. The reason being that one ground pin was shared with the ECU and the bad ground, the other goes to one of the cabin grounds.

It could readily have done the same to a more expensive part of the truck.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/scangauge-2-broke-my-obdii-and-is-causing-problems.566297

[Derek.w]

Ref your burnt out OBDII socket photos.

Thats why I wont use that OBDII socket I leave it for garage equipment like engine fault code readers.

I hope you can repair it yourself and save some money.

[preperationlaunch]

49 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

Ref your burnt out OBDII socket photos.

Thats why I wont use that OBDII socket I leave it for garage equipment like engine fault code readers.

I hope you can repair it yourself and save some money.

Derek, if you seek out the source of those photos from my previous post, you’ll note that it was a fault code reader that did that. A very reputable one too. 

Unfortunately, the reader happened to be the grounding point when another ground in the engine compartment failed. Anything connected to the OBD2 port could’ve done the same in that circumstance.

Note that any other circuit could have ended up being the easiest path to ground otherwise, so it arguably could have saved more significant damage. 

[Dala]

2 hours ago, preperationlaunch said:

... Anything connected to the OBD2 port could’ve done the same in that circumstance....

for example, a car Battery charger