Auris 2014 1.6VVTi Headlights & main beam problem.

[Mike467]

Hello everyone. I am a newbie on this Forum and have had Toyota's for many years now, but have not needed to ask for advice…...until now.

I bought a 2014 Auris 1.6 VVTi about a year ago, but due to lockdown, literally didn’t use it at night, but when I did, the headlight issue with this era of Auris was obvious. They are truly like glow-worms in a jam jar. I have found many items on this forum about it and, yes, it is incredible that Toyota could get away with selling cars with lethal headlights. My wife refuses to drive it at night. I have been driving for 50 years and have never seen anything like this.

As with others, Toyota refuse point blank to address this issue, or offer any remedy. The first owner should really have rejected the car.

My attempts to improve things have involved me fitting Phillips X-tremeVision Pro150 HIR2 bulbs. These are said to be 150% brighter, but that was £56.00 down the drain, it made little difference.

Now I come to my current problem, I’m resigned to the lights being useless. I attempted to clean the inside of the lens with some long IPA swabs I have, but when I tested it, the main beam has stopped working. The fuse is okay, but I’m worried that I might have damaged or jammed the shutter, as I believe these are projector lights? I’m assuming the shutter is triggered by a solenoid?

Has anyone had this sort of problem with the main beam and does it mean a very costly replacement or can I take the light out and strip it?

 

Many Thanks

[Gerg]

My commiserations about your headlamps.

The headlamp shutter is indeed operated by a solenoid.  Unfortunately, you can only get to it after you have split the headlamp outer Shell open, which it is not designed to do (clips, mastic type sealant).  Removing the headlamp is a bumper off job, by the way.  As it the headlamp tucks into the bumper void, a bit.

If all else is lost, then there are some things you could try.  I have to rush out now for a while - I could elaborate on this a little later.

Which side is it on, btw?

This thread has some photos of the back of the headlamp, but this headlamp has been in an accident, so was already broken open.  The solenoid is at the bottom of the last picture. and attaches to the shutter via a couple of spring steel loops.

If more pictures of the mechanism would be of use, then I have plenty!

[Mike467]

Thanks for your response Gerg. It is the near side one.  I’m thinking the shutter is always up, but pulled down when the solenoid energises?

Thanks

[AisinW]

I am not sure what you complain about without pictures. Send us picture low and high beam. It is projector light, not as brigth as reflector but more homogenous.  Mine is fine, better than any H7 FROM VAG

[Mike467]

I'll try and get some pictures that will show how the light spread is and how dull.

[TonyHSD]

1 hour ago, AisinW said:

I am not sure what you complain about without pictures. Send us picture low and high beam. It is projector light, not as brigth as reflector but more homogenous.  Mine is fine, better than any H7 FROM VAG

Funny but true 😂👍

[Gerg]

The modified headlamps, which are what would come by default if you had new ones for some reason, widen the beam close to the car.

There is also a different, known problem, with these original, (factory fitted) headlamps - the polished coating on the reflector can start to peel off.  This is much rarer.

To the OP, you've probably seen this thread, if not, it's worth reading from the beginning, but page 2 is relevant about reflector peeling.

In addition, have you had your headlamp beams checked recently?  The MoT will flag the car if the headlamp beams are too high, but if they are too low, nothing is reported.  We had a pair of headlamps changed at our Toyota dealer in Hertfordshire (the TSB related replacement), amongst the many badly reassembled and broken bits the technician caused on other parts of the car, the headlamps were set up really ridiculously low!   (I'm not referring to the dash thumbwheel adjustment, btw.) 

You could consider going to a friendly MoT centre and asking them if the headlamps could be adjusted as high as they can be legally set, it is a very quick job - it only requires the MoT headlamp alignment tool and a No.2 point Philips screwdriver.

On 9/13/2021 at 8:20 PM, AisinW said:

Mine is fine, better than any H7 FROM VAG

If your car is a 2016 model, as per your profile, you have the facelifted version with different headlamps.

[Mike467]

My car is a 2014 (64 plate) model, is that non-facelift?  Just had full service and the shutter problem means a new light is required.  Just awaiting Toyota authorisation, but should be covered under extended warranty.

I'm advised that it should be covered with no problem, but need confimation from Toyota.  If all is well, my next issue might be whether it will match the original offside headlight in terms of output and beam?

[FROSTYBALLS]

The facelift was introduced March 2015.

[Mike467]

Just had full service done and the faulty headlight will be replaced under my extended warranty.  I just need to see how vastly different the two beam patterns are between the two, they wouldn't change as a pair.

The two year extended warranty has paid for itself so far and I've still got 13 months to go on it.  I'll keep this issue updated when new light fitted with photos if possible.

Thanks for all help so far.

[AisinW]

Now you have 10 years warranty. Relax warranty that needs you to do annual inspection/oil change in dealership. It may worth strategy if you still have another issues. Otherwise, it is a waste of money. Oil change can be done for £50 or less at your own home. 

[Mike467]

The economics of a Toyota Manufacturers Extended Warranty is a tricky one.  The costs of just an oil change is £190.00, the MOT's are free with a guarantee on failed parts and breakdown cover  is included.  I've had the air con condensor replaced and a headlight replacement which will be pretty much the same as my total premium and I've still got 15 months left of cover.

I was told I get no benefit from the Relax warranty as I already have an extended one.

[AisinW]

Wow, you already found 2 lemons in your Auris.  So far, I only have problems with rubber on rear stablizer links (20 minutes job) after 70k miles. The philips LL bulb are still ok although I replace it with Hella. Philips longlife bulb is 1430 lumens instead of 1870 lumens in standard HIR2. 

[Mike467]

On 11/5/2021 at 10:37 PM, AisinW said:

Wow, you already found 2 lemons in your Auris.  So far, I only have problems with rubber on rear stablizer links (20 minutes job) after 70k miles. The philips LL bulb are still ok although I replace it with Hella. Philips longlife bulb is 1430 lumens instead of 1870 lumens in standard HIR2. 

Recent service flagged up perished trailing arm bushes at 60K.  I need to see how much my local garage will charge, as main dealer could be mega bucks. I don't think these would be covered under warranty as probably classed as consumables?  New n/s headlight has been replaced and beam is safer now as it lights up the kerb and a better spread.  The o/s light is still slightly strange, but I am confident to drive at night now with what I have.

[AisinW]

As far as I remember, Relax warranty covers main expensive parts but not wearable parts like brake pads, shocks/struts, rubber parts (bushing, boot, cover, cushions, etc.).  The trailing arm bushes is not a small job.  We need proper lift and equipment.  The parts is not that expensive and always get the genuine one from Toyota for any rubber and joints parts.  For brake pads and rotors, aftermarket often offer better price/performance especially the coated disc. 

I believe you drove on very rough road and probably the way you take turns and speed in winding roads. My rear stabilizer links went bad because I drove often in Blackforest and Alps.  

[Mike467]

Hi AisinW.  Thanks for your comments.  The car has only been a town car, so not much extreme driving involved.

My Warranty is a Toyota Factory Extended one and not the Relax one.  I've just phoned the warranty company and was told that as the bushes are not easily replaceable, a new arm is required, which could be covered.  As I've seen online that the arms are about £300 each (!!) I'm going to see if the dealer can put in a claim.  Watch this space!

[AisinW]

Great, yes all bushing in control arms are not replaceable. We always replace the whole arms.  The only thing that never fail is balljoint in Toyota cars, it is made in heaven, in the truck and SUV-truck base may fail but not on the cars. I replaced front control arms in heavier cars/minivan in Sienna and Highlander, but rarely in light corolla. The trailing arms may fail but after long time of abuse usually in bad roads in developing countries. Once your extra warranty is over, you are eligible to get the Relax warranty too. Just do annual inspection/oil change in dealership

[TonyHSD]

12 minutes ago, Mike467 said:

Hi AisinW.  Thanks for your comments.  The car has only been a town car, so not much extreme driving involved.

My Warranty is a Toyota Factory Extended one and not the Relax one.  I've just phoned the warranty company and was told that as the bushes are not easily replaceable, a new arm is required, which could be covered.  As I've seen online that the arms are about £300 each (!!) I'm going to see if the dealer can put in a claim.  Watch this space!

Car Suspension has its biggest enemy and it’s called “a speed bumps”. These are as stupid idea as can be since they do not stop bad drivers driving dangerously  but cause a millions of pounds of unnecessary repairs and increase pollution. Sadly they are very popular and so many city driven cars cannot last even 100k miles without repair to suspension parts. I hope the dealer agrees to replace under warranty but if they refuse you can look for aftermarket good quality like blueprint or first line and febi are worth consideration and proper installation are key factors for longevity afterwards. Control arms needs to be fitted with pre set tension before fasteners been tightened. 👍

[AisinW]

I never have a good experience with aftermarket bushing parts like control arms and trailing arms.  Within 2 years, the bushing crack again or the whole bushing ripped from the metal housing in my Sienna. For Sienna 2004, the labor is 8 hours, so better to put the best possible part since the parts is only $300 from Toyota.  After that I Install  the original one, they are fine 3 years later. For bearing and joints, SKF, Schaeffler, Timken, NTN, ZF group are good.  For front control arms and waterpump,  get Aisin,  It is OEM supplier. KYB, Sachs/TRW and Bilstein are good for shocks 

[Mike467]

Car is booked in next Tuesday for a visual inspection.  Their technician said the bushings were perished but had no play, so they'll probably want to wait for another year before replacing......we'll see?

[AisinW]

Under warranty, anything that is not in a good condition must be replaced.  Otherwise, there is no point paying extra warranty. Just like Relax warranty does not cover wearable parts except brake rotor/disc. I am not sure now, if control arms (bushing) is covered. We must ask Toyota dealer explicitly. 

[Tony01Vermont]

Hi

I have a 2014 Hybrid and I must agree, the headlights are pretty poor. I came to this forum hoping that there was an easy solution but it seems even 150% brighter HIR2 bulbs don't make a great deal of difference. Is there any point/wisdom in going for LED. They're expensive I know but what price do you put on safety?

 

[AisinW]

Well, it is comparable to any halogen light in the class. It is projector beam, the hot spot is not as bright but the whole area is lighted smoother than reflector.  I drove Polo and Rapid with H7, they are about the same. You cannot find brighter bulb than standar HIR2 1875 lumens, in that socket, not even Ultinon 9000 philips 1870 lumens and worse pattern. It is not legal either. The only brighter bulb is HIR1 but may not fit the socket of HIR2.  You can fit OEM bi-Xenon instead, but need someworks on the wiring and relays. 

[Tony01Vermont]

Hi John

Thanks for that.

Kind regards

Tony

[FROSTYBALLS]

45 minutes ago, Tony01Vermont said:

Is there any point/wisdom in going for LED.

Installing LED or HID bulbs in headlight units designed for halogen is now an MOT failure.