Brake issue when slowing down/approaching a junction at slow speed (5-10mph).

[ROB-E12]

Hi all, 

Just looking for a bit of advice or if anyone has experienced a similar issue on their E12 Corolla. The car has had recent front and rear discs and pads fitted within the last 12 months, front offside caliper slider pins also replaced(common fault). 

The car pulls up perfectly safe/well and has no issues when braking at higher speeds. The issue is when the car is coming to a complete stop with sound coming from pressing the brake pedal at the slower speed, which can also be heard at the front of the car.

Any ideas or thoughts? 

Thanks

Rob

 

[Mikw]

Get exactly that on my Yaris, i just assumed it was the sound of the pads on the discs, and car engine is nearly always off at that speed so you can hear the pads on the discs.

[ROB-E12]

Sorry for the late reply Mikw, thanks for the advice. I've also added a sound clip to see if it's similar to yours.

Listen around the 24s and 44s mark, pulling up to junctions.

Thanks

Rob😃

 

[Mikw]

On 10/26/2021 at 7:13 PM, ROB-E12 said:

Sorry for the late reply Mikw, thanks for the advice. I've also added a sound clip to see if it's similar to yours.

Listen around the 24s and 44s mark, pulling up to junctions.

Thanks

Rob😃

 

That sounds like it's grinding a bit. Too be honest mine doesn't really do that, it's more of a constant noise when the friction brakes are on, so perhaps you'd better take it to the dealer.

[Cyker]

It could be the new pads and discs bedding in, but it sounds like whoever put the discs on didn't clean the hub and disc surfaces properly or check them for run-out, so the disc is wobbling slightly as it turns.

 

[TonyHSD]

11 hours ago, Cyker said:

It could be the new pads and discs bedding in, but it sounds like whoever put the discs on didn't clean the hub and disc surfaces properly or check them for run-out, so the disc is wobbling slightly as it turns.

 

That’s right or perhaps the car been seating around without use and there is a rust accumulated at one spot from the pads and now is rubbing while turning. 

[flash22]

Over simplifying things here, have you checked the wheel nuts are tight ?

[Red_Corolla]

I don't think it's run-out as that would cause pedal vibration which would worsen at higher speeds. Loose wheel nuts/bolts will be most noticeable when cornering and will cause a rumble rather like a bad wheel bearing (don't ask me how I know that ).

The discs need to be inspected on both sides to see if they're bedding in cleanly or if there are rusty spots from the pads not making contact at certain points. If they're rusty then they might just need to be bedded in a bit more aggressively. Another point to consider is anti-rattle shims: Japanese makes often have these fitted to the pad carrier bracket. Where fitted, the shims should be replaced together with the pads and the parts should be good quality, preferably OE.

[ROB-E12]

Thanks for your advice. I'll get them looked at, MOT is just around the corner and should get a clearer picture of what's going on.

Yours and everyones help is greatly appreciated! 🙂

Cheers 

Rob

 

[oldcodger]

From your messages sounds like its the garage thats doing all the work for you ?

One point that could be making such a noticeable noise is the brake slider bolts.

There are two different ones per caliper, one is plain metal the other has a rubber on the inside end, its function is to absorb any juddering of the caliper and am told it should always be on the trailing edge , in respect to forwards motion.

If they are the wrong way around or no rubber fitted at all, on any or all calipers, it could be the cause of that noise; generally its always advisable to replace brake parts in axle pairs, not to just one wheel, to avoid any imbalances.

As said above, if the discs are out of true,  when braking hard at high speed you typically get severe steering wobble at the same time. assume you are not getting that ?

[ROB-E12]

Yes, I get the work done at a local independent garage, been using them since 2017 and really good. Ah, I got the slider pins done in July and sure they've been put in correctly. Your last point about the high speed braking, no issues of steering wheel wobble.

Another thing I notice is that the brake pedal is really creaky in stop/start traffic. It never ends! 😅

Thankyou 

Rob 

 

[Paulmad]

Is it an abs fault ? 

[ROB-E12]

It's definitely something I'll bring up. I found this historic topic which had similar symptoms:

Good shout Paulmad 👍

Rob

[SID1919]

On 10/28/2021 at 6:09 PM, ROB-E12 said:

It's definitely something I'll bring up. I found this historic topic which had similar symptoms:

Good shout Paulmad 👍

Rob

Hi,that was my reply last year,have you tried braking with the ABS fuse out on a quiet road ? Regards,Stuart

[ROB-E12]

Hi Stuart,

I haven't tried that yet. I might give that a go at the weekend to see any results and if that's the issue. Failing that, the car is booked in with Toyota end of the month 😅.

Seems, that's the most probable cause! 

Thanks for the advice, always helpful. 

Rob 😀

 

[SID1919]

On 11/3/2021 at 11:47 AM, ROB-E12 said:

Hi Stuart,

I haven't tried that yet. I might give that a go at the weekend to see any results and if that's the issue. Failing that, the car is booked in with Toyota end of the month 😅.

Seems, that's the most probable cause! 

Thanks for the advice, always helpful. 

Rob 😀

 

Hi Rob,how did you go on with your braking issue ?

[ROB-E12]

Hi Stuart, apologies for the late reply as was holding off to reply once tested with ABS fuse out.

I can't actually believe this, but the sound seems to have disappeared(Touch wood). On the way to get my car washed the usual sounds were audible when decreasing speed. However, it seems that whatever was causing it has gone! Could it have been as simple as a piece of grit trapped? 🙃

I'm just not sure, Happy days!! 😁

Thanks as always 

Rob 

 

[Mikw]

6 hours ago, ROB-E12 said:

Hi Stuart, apologies for the late reply as was holding off to reply once tested with ABS fuse out.

I can't actually believe this, but the sound seems to have disappeared(Touch wood). On the way to get my car washed the usual sounds were audible when decreasing speed. However, it seems that whatever was causing it has gone! Could it have been as simple as a piece of grit trapped? 🙃

I'm just not sure, Happy days!! 😁

Thanks as always 

Rob 

 

It could be, My old Vauxhall Astra did simlar once, with a burning smell. I stopped the car and it was a big Mac carton stuck in the brake shoe and against the disc

[SID1919]

On 11/13/2021 at 5:35 PM, ROB-E12 said:

Hi Stuart, apologies for the late reply as was holding off to reply once tested with ABS fuse out.

I can't actually believe this, but the sound seems to have disappeared(Touch wood). On the way to get my car washed the usual sounds were audible when decreasing speed. However, it seems that whatever was causing it has gone! Could it have been as simple as a piece of grit trapped? 🙃

I'm just not sure, Happy days!! 😁

Thanks as always 

Rob 

 

Hi Rob,it's quite possible that a piece of grit got trapped around the sensor/pick up ring area.

[ROB-E12]

Just a quick update, wasn't the grit in the end. The sound returned a week later! 😏

Sadly the car failed it's MOT today at Toyota. They found a hole in the gearbox casing, which was 'excessively leaking oil'. Not the greatest news, weighing up my options.

Cheers

Rob

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Thats very unusual, didn't you see any oil on the ground ?

Could it have been caused by someone jacking the car up on the gearbox ?

When was the gearbox oil level last checked ?  could it have been running on low for some time, if so you could have some internal wear problems.

Last time we looked there are reconditioned gearboxes on eBay etc, but when you add fitting costs including a new cluch its not going to be cheap.

Never used them, but what about these modern metal fillers, they make out they are very strong ?

[ROB-E12]

Hi oldcodger,

Yeah, it was quite a stressful night thinking about all the options. I visited a local specialist near me called 'Bexhill Gearboxes' who have been absolutely brilliant. The car was put up on the ramp and they were able to see the leak coming from the 5th gear casing. It looks like the shaft nut had burred through the casing, creating the leak.

I have replaced the casing with a used part they had in stock. All in £211 😁

One very relieved man. Haha, still a full brake line to replace/investigate rear hub.

Thanks

Rob

 

 

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Sound like a good fix !     -   lucky that you had someone local with the parts and experience.

A full brake line ??   I had to replace part of my rear ones, where it meets the connector to the flexible pipe, its a bit of a water/muck trap.

Theres always a question of how much corrision is under the rubber/plastic ? sheath the pipes are covered in, apart from that bit I mentioned,  but when cutting back ours it had none, so we could just replace a short section.

Its not a job you can do without the proper tools and bits, but if you identify what needs doing, you should find a garage to will do it for you without replacing the whole length, though even if they do want to replace it all, should not be that expensive.

Suggest you ask  for Copper Nickel (Kunifer) pipe to be used as it does not corrode.

If you intend to keep the car, now would be a good time to replace all the rubber brake hoses , if not done before.

[ROB-E12]

Hi,

Yes a full brake line, full rear to front. One of the failures on the recent MOT due to excessive corrosion. I don't normally get the car MOT 'd at Toyota. Haha, it's a costly one £460 all in(4 hours estimate labour).Genuine part. 

The other thing, is to do with the parking brake. I think one of the shoes/fitment spring in the hub has come loose. Toyota Tech said the rear wheel had resistance 🙄

Yeah, definitely keeping the car. Need to keep the SR alive 😄

Rob

[Red_Corolla]

£460 for one brake pipe?! 😱

Save yourself a load of money and get the pipe replaced by an independent garage. They will have the necessary bending and flaring tools to fabricate a new pipe matching the old one, no need to buy a pre-fabricated one. Brake pipes are one of those rare parts where aftermarket is actually better than OE, because the original ones tend to be made from steel for cost saving whereas aftermarket pipe is usually copper.