ABS light on

[Lee3011]

Hi all, I’m new to this forum and just recently bought a 2007 yaris TR run around for myself for work however over the past couple of the days the abs light has come on so I have scanned it and getting code C1333 left rear speed sensor, is it as simple as replacing the sensor / cleaning it or is it a replacement hub? 
 

many thanks 

[wildtapholer]

Lee you will have to remove the sensor and have a look to see if the tip has been rubbing or any damaged wires, cleaning it may do the job, but to be fair it will more than likely to be faulty, not too sure about price but if you replace it when you re-install the sensor, don't just put in in, paint the sensor tip with Tipex, replace sensor and spin the wheel to see if any of the Tipex has been rubbed off, if it has you can and I've done this in the past place a very thin washer under were it bolts down to lift the sensor away slightly, when I say thin I'm talking about shimming paper because if it gets too far away it will show a fault as it won't register.

[flash22]

The Abs sensor and ring are part of the hub/ bearing, be aware there are 2 type of abs hub a small and large ABS plugs

if you take the abs sensor off, you may destroy it, the ring is part of the bearing

If you have driven through a flood, you may have got water into the connector

[Lee3011]

Had a quick look today and the plug was dry, was thinking of changing the speed sensor harness but can’t see where it plugs in because it disappears into the body, do I have to remove the rear seat to unplug the other end? 

[Lee3011]

Scanned it again to view the live wheel speed and all working apart from the right rear (driver’s side) but the fault code is stating left rear (passenger side)

im stumped 🤔 

[flash22]

Unplug the left rear sensor and test again, then do the right, some of these Chinese handheld scanners can be iffy, if your using an app try a different one

[Lee3011]

Did that just and it came up with right rear c1332 code and left c1333

[flash22]

Did you disconnect the right-hand side then read the live data ?

[Lee3011]

I opted to buy a new rear hub complete with speed sensor however before I went ahead to fit it I plugged the harness into the new hub cleared the fault and spun the hub up while holding it and the abs fault came back abs light on the dash with the same C1333 left rear, my question is would the hub need to fitted to the car and driven to calibrate the new sensor? 

Many thanks

[Ells]

On 10/29/2021 at 6:03 AM, Lee-3011 said:

Hi all, I’m new to this forum and just recently bought a 2007 yaris TR run around for myself for work however over the past couple of the days the abs light has come on so I have scanned it and getting code C1333 left rear speed sensor, is it as simple as replacing the sensor / cleaning it or is it a replacement hub? 
 

many thanks 

welcome to the forum :)

[Lee3011]

3 minutes ago, Ells said:

welcome to the forum 🙂

Thanks 

[Ells]

Just now, Lee3011 said:

Thanks 

welcome :) you have a nice name btw

[Ells]

45 minutes ago, Lee3011 said:

Thanks 

did you get your problem sorted?? 

[TonyHSD]

Fit everything together and drive the car to check if the fault comes back again, and if it does may look to replace the wire harness. Yes you will need to open some plastics inside the interior and perhaps remove the seat , not sure on your model how exactly is. When wheel off the ground and spin by hand may trigger abs fault because the car is stationary and the sensor detects movement of one wheel. 
Good luck 

[Lee3011]

On 11/3/2021 at 4:42 PM, TonyHSD said:

Fit everything together and drive the car to check if the fault comes back again, and if it does may look to replace the wire harness. Yes you will need to open some plastics inside the interior and perhaps remove the seat , not sure on your model how exactly is. When wheel off the ground and spin by hand may trigger abs fault because the car is stationary and the sensor detects movement of one wheel. 
Good luck 

Thanks I’m planning on fitting the replacement hub today weather depending, however yesterday I cleared the fault again and set off for a quick drive around the block and the light didn’t come on immediately like it has done before I probably got a quarter of a mile or so then it came on whereas previously it came back on straight away without the car moving?   
 

plus the scanner was picking up the wheel speed which makes me wonder if the sensor in the hub is fine and it’s the harness that’s at fault 

[flash22]

More than likely water/moisture ingress

[Lee3011]

Replaced the hub today and had a drive and seems to have fixed the problem now I could do with coating the plug in some sort of grease on the outside what would you recommend 

[TonyHSD]

They usually have a rubber seal

but you can always add some silicone grease as water repellent. I had recently same issues with left wheel hub, replaced with new one and all good ever since, but my problem was also with the sensor itself inside the hub the bearing seals went bad and grease has entered the sensor area and the sensor was not able to read and send signal plus corroded connector pins. 

[stantheman1]

Silicone grease or good old fashioned vaseline. 🙂

[bathtub tom]

Vaseline is hygroscopic (it absorbs water). If you're really serious, I'd recommend a marine, waterproof grease.

[flash22]

The correct grease is dielectric grease, but it's not cheap, and a little goes a long way

[stantheman1]

23 hours ago, bathtub tom said:

Vaseline is hygroscopic (it absorbs water). If you're really serious, I'd recommend a marine, waterproof grease.

Really? Vaseline is supposed to be a water repellent and not water soluble, it's also used as an emergency aid on open wounds to stop the flow of blood.

[flash22]

Vaseline is hygrophobic, but has occlusive and humectant properties as such it can retain moisture

[bathtub tom]

19 minutes ago, stantheman1 said:

Really? Vaseline is supposed to be a water repellent and not water soluble, it's also used as an emergency aid on open wounds to stop the flow of blood.

I can only refer back to my days at BT, when they introduced grease-filled cables. Apparently, they were terrible to work with and a special allowance was paid. The point of grease filling them was to maintain insulation properties if the sheaf was damaged (these were paper insulated conductors), this was also done by pressurising them and monitoring the air flow to detect damage. The concept was abandoned when it was discovered vaseline was hygroscopic.