Corroded Coil Springs

[venomx]

Hi. MK2 Yaris.

Passed the last MOT a couple of months back after the horn was fixed. It did have two advisories 

Nearside Rear Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Offside Rear Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))

 Is this anything that needs fixing soon ? Looking at the MOT history this is the first time it's popped up, so I'd assume it hasn't been corroded very long

Car has done about 67,000 miles

I could try and get some pictures tomorrow.

 

Thanks

[TonyHSD]

Hi, 

you can prevent furthering rust forming if you have some time to spend in the car. You will need a can of Simoniz black matte spray, wire brush, sand paper, wire cloth, gloves and some old news paper. Take wheels off the car, clean, properly as much as you can , then mask around the wheel arch with paper and give it a couple of coats with this magic paint, you can spray directly even over the rust, you can spray after you have cleaned or best even to use some rust stop treatment before the paint, then you will be good for few more years. All that if the rust is surface only, if started to go deep you will need a new springs. 👍

[wildtapholer]

It's probably been rusty or rusting for a few years and the tester is just bringing it to your attention, my brother in-law has a old T reg nissan and you should see his springs, rusty doesn't mean broken, just means weakened, cleaning them and repainting won't hurt and it does help the tester, they know you have at least tried to do something about them, other than changing which isn't too difficult.

[venomx]

Thanks for the info!

I'm nowhere near experienced enough to be doing anything myself. I did check the springs today and they look fairly rusty with some flaking. I  will try and get some photos as soon as possible.

New springs from what I've looked at seem quite cheap, what sort of price should I be looking at ?..  I know a good mechanic down the road so if needed I'll get them to  replace them.

I don't have anyone in the back of the car at all, only in the front. So i'd hope there's less chance of anything happening for now as all the weight is in the front where the springs are ok according to the MOT test

[Stivino]

I wouldn't worry about it, springs don't corrode away to nothing.  I'd like to see a photo.

Here are the rules regarding springs in the M.O.T. test.

[bathtub tom]

Wipe them down with a greasy rag. I've only ever had one spring fail and that was within half-an-inch of the end. I suspect you'll never find that weak point without dismantling. I understand spring viability took a turn for the worse after they stopped finishing them with 'rat tails'.

[Saxmaniac]

If you do ever change the springs don't get cheaper pattern ones as they will be rusty in no time at all. You could chuck a squirt of Dinitrol ML over them yearly, it's thin and penetrates but leaves a thin film of rust inhibitor wax

[venomx]

Booked in and will be getting them replaced soon 😁

[Stivino]

1 hour ago, venomx said:

Booked in and will be getting them replaced soon 😁

Waste of money. 

[Madasafish]

Had a corroded spring on our 03 Yaris. It broke 5 years ago - replaced spring £40 parts plus DIY.

 

I now coat all springs with Black Waxoil  spray - stops corrosion. No need to clean - just spray. Works a treat on bodywork as well.. No need to remove spring.

 

[Cyker]

How have you taken care of the back of yours @Madasafish?

My brother's Mk1 Yaris (My first D4D!) just failed its MOT due to, essentially, the whole back being too rusty - Springs so rusty the coils had 'reduced cross sectional area', fuel filler pipe badly corroded, but what sealed its fate is the rear subframe mount or something was rated excessively corroded, and I gather that's the bit with the rear torsion beam, axles, trailing arms etc., so it's probably going to be scrapped ( ) 

I'm wondering if I should waxoil the my Mk4 now as I need to keep it for at least 10 years!!  

One nice thing is the Mk4 has a lot more panels covering stuff on the bottom, and as long as they don't collect moisture, hopefully they will protect more of the car from getting corroded by mud and spray and stuff...

[TonyHSD]

I think regular washes and underbody washes even only with water will help preserve the car for a long time. Some of these products available can cause more trouble then help and I personally will not use any of them. 

[wildtapholer]

It helps if you don't live near the coast, worst car I ever got was from Scarborough, garage I use said it was the rustiest car underneath he had ever seen, now I always ask from where the car comes from before purchase.

[Madasafish]

16 hours ago, Cyker said:

How have you taken care of the back of yours @Madasafish?

My brother's Mk1 Yaris (My first D4D!) just failed its MOT due to, essentially, the whole back being too rusty - Springs so rusty the coils had 'reduced cross sectional area', fuel filler pipe badly corroded, but what sealed its fate is the rear subframe mount or something was rated excessively corroded, and I gather that's the bit with the rear torsion beam, axles, trailing arms etc., so it's probably going to be scrapped ( ) 

I'm wondering if I should waxoil the my Mk4 now as I need to keep it for at least 10 years!!  

One nice thing is the Mk4 has a lot more panels covering stuff on the bottom, and as long as they don't collect moisture, hopefully they will protect more of the car from getting corroded by mud and spray and stuff...

 Well first of all when we bought our 2003 Yaris  - in 2005, I washed thoroughly underneath with a hose. The previous owner lived in Southport near the sea so salt was concern.

 

Then I coated fuel filler pipes with underseal containing Waxoyl - in the wheel arch they are very vulnerable to stone chippings (Article in Car Mechnaics on Nissan filler pipes).

I then sprayed with Waxoyl - or preferably Dinitrol (ex eBay - specific for underbodies) - front and rear spring, ditto subframes, all brackets on suspension and round the rear suspension subframe mounting points - as this is a common cause of near fatal corrosion due to stresses from rear suspension through mounting bolts. ( A pit, or car jacked up  helps .)

Subsequently the factory applied paint/sealant was all eroded off by 2016 or so so Dinitrol around the eroded rear arches and also the inner sill  vertical wall from front wheel arch (facing towards the inside) - which attracts spray from front wheels - despite mudflaps.   Ditto rear suspension cross member.

I have also coated the entire exhaust - after quick wire brushing - with Very High Temperature HeatProof exhaust paint (Spray from Halfords). So exhaust is solid despite car being 18years old. Every 4-5 years. Looks a mess but particularly round rear stops lots of corrosion due to spray. The bit of the exhaust seen from outside looks like new...

 

OCD in action.