Avensis T25 2006 facelift wagon fuel filter replacement

[morpheusro]

Hi guys,

I want to change the fuel filter (maybe the pump) on my Avensis wagon, and I would like to ask for some advice.

Is it a difficult DIY job? I believe not, so I would like to know how can I find out which parts I need. For now, I've been checking this link: https://toyota.epc-data.com/avensis/azt250/34430/engine/7701/77020A/ but I want to make sure I am on the right track.

So... any advice is great!

Thanks!

[morpheusro]

So far I have not started on replacing the fuel pump or the filter, I however, checked the spark plugs, and they are not the right part, or at least not what's specified in the manual: they should be SK20BGR11 (Denso) but it's actually Bosch(FR 7 KPP) double platinum... and they are a bit on the black side. I think that's because the last trip was very short.

I will continue my investigations and post later when I've figured it out 😉

[ents]

Why do you want to replace the fuel filter, having some issues with it!

Your car has lifetime fuel filter, it is hard to find and is expensive and it is pain in the a## to change. Easier is to change the complete fuel pump assembly with new filter but it is several hundred €. 

Access to fuel pump assembly is easy. Lift up the back seat, undo  some (i think it was 4) bolts holding the fuel tank access panel, clean the fuel pump cap area, undo the connector and two fuel lines (before removing the fuel lines, crank the engine but to not start to unpressurise the fuel lines), unscrew the cap (i used handles of the pipe tongs) and out it comes!

The filter itself was something like THIS. 

[MrAurisT]

On 12/13/2021 at 8:54 PM, morpheusro said:

Hi guys,

I want to change the fuel filter (maybe the pump) on my Avensis wagon, and I would like to ask for some advice.

Is it a difficult DIY job? I believe not, so I would like to know how can I find out which parts I need. For now, I've been checking this link: https://toyota.epc-data.com/avensis/azt250/34430/engine/7701/77020A/ but I want to make sure I am on the right track.

So... any advice is great!

Thanks!

Like the post above, are you sure you need to change these items? Normally all Toyota parts are very reliable are rarely would these parts give trouble? What are your cars symptoms and fault codes?

[morpheusro]

Thanks for the advice! I am not 100% convinced to change the filter, I was more like mentioning my options.

The car symptoms:
- the idle is oscillating between 650 and 780 rpms (I have a small device + android torque app with which I have checked the idle when the engine is warm)
- between 1800 - 3000 rpms the acceleration is sluggish... not very smooth, seems like the engine is struggling to accelerate.
- no error codes (I had P0037, but I have changed the sensor and the error is gone, the engine is definitely better after the change)
- if I use 98 octane gasoline things improve, not by much, but you can notice a small difference
- the engine doesn't pull as I was expecting after 2000rpms. In my head, a 150hp engine on this car, which is not that heavy, around 1350 kg, should pull pretty hard, but it's not.

Things done: air filter, engine oil 5w30 (the previous owner said it changed it for me, but I wasn't sure he used the right grade, so I've changed it again), oil filter (bosch), all 4 disks plus pads(brembo), clutch changed as per previous owner around 60k km ago, electric starter and alternator (nipparts) by previous owner, I have the invoices.

So... i'm looking into what could be a problem... maybe I am not on the right track... so any help to investigate is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

[morpheusro]

Alright, new info:

by using my small tester and the torque app + the standard obd II code list from Wikipedia(check formula below) and approx 1h of figuring out how a formula should be set properly, I managed to get the following results from the car:

for fuel pressure : -3kPa [A* 3]

and fuel rail pressure: -247Kpa (Fuel Rail Gauge Pressure (diesel, or gasoline direct injection)     [kPa     10 ( 256 A + B )]

Q: why are the values negative? And what does it mean? I think I've read that fuel pressure should be 3.5 bar, but if I convert from kPa to bar... not good.

A: because A has value by default -1

first one is 0.03 bar and second one is 2.47 bar.

So... pls help!

*check the file as reference as welll...

*all measurements done at idle

 

After a bit more research, I've discovered that the values are wrong. Nothing is actually read from the ECU.

I need mode research.

[flash22]

 Spark plugs FR 7 KPP is the Bosch equivalent to SVK20RZ11 - toyotas tend to run better on denso plugs

 

what are your long and short fuel trims like ? what are your MAP, MAF and CTS readings ?

those values are meaningless -247 kpa is -73 inHg,  -101 kpa is 100% theoretical relative vacuum

Smoke test the intake, see if you have any air leaks

 

 

[morpheusro]

Sorry for late reply, been very busy these days.

So, I bought Denso SK20BGR11 as replacement, are they good?

And I hope these are the readings you asked for, see attachments. Engine was cold, idling and outside temp 8C.

What is CTS? How do I smoke test the intake?

[flash22]

CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor

were those reading taken with the engine up to temp ?

[morpheusro]

N

58 minutes ago, flash22 said:

CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor

were those reading taken with the engine up to temp ?

No, with cold engine.

[flash22]

It needs to be up to temp for the oxygen sensor to go in to closed loop

[morpheusro]

And now with engine at 75-78 C

If still nod good enough, i can warm up the engine even further and read again.

[flash22]

All looks ok apart from B1S1 and B2S1 does the voltage fluctuate at idle or under throttle ?

[morpheusro]

49 minutes ago, flash22 said:

All looks ok apart from B1S1 and B2S1 does the voltage fluctuate at idle or under throttle ?

Voltage fluctuates for FUEL at idle and under throttle. (Both when driving and when not)

 

I'm checking O2 and I'll come back.

 

Yes. they fluctuate on idle and on throttle for the O2 values.

The engine has the tendency of stalling. (Not sure stalling is the right word, the idle is erratic, not stable and it seems is constantly adjusted by the ECU as not to stop)

[flash22]

what sort of voltages do you get on the bank 1 and 2, number 1 sensors ? can you check the resistance of both sensors with a meter ?

[morpheusro]

0.89 V and 0.52 V on easy throttle

0.83 V and 0.78 V on idle

0.07 V and 0.09 V on idle

[morpheusro]

either I don't know how to measure (most likely) or there is no reading
How I measured: i removed the plug from the socket, kept one of the probes on one of the pins, then moved with the other probe on all the others. No readings.

[morpheusro]

ok. didn't know how to read properly. b2s1: value 16.1 Ohm

b1s1 16.2 Ohm

 

and both lower sensors 15.2

[morpheusro]

Would it be a good idea to change them? If yes, can someone help me identify the parts?

Meanwhile, I've found this thread:

which is very similar to what problems I am experiencing.

 

[morpheusro]

Anyone? Any idea what numbers for O2 top sensors? Left and right?

 

[flash22]

O2's look to be in spec, i don't think the issue is there

I would pull the vvti solenoid, inspect and clean it should read 6-9 ohm's at 20ºc (rear left of the head as you open the bonnet)

15330-28010

[morpheusro]

57 minutes ago, flash22 said:

O2's look to be in spec, i don't think the issue is there

I would pull the vvti solenoid, inspect and clean it should read 6-9 ohm's at 20ºc (rear left of the head as you open the bonnet)

15330-28010

I think I can do that. I will do it and let you know. Thanks so much for your help!

[morpheusro]

OKi, new info, while trying to check the vvti solenoid, I decided first as my spark plugs have arrived, to replace them first, and I did. Man! Huge difference. The idle is stable now, the car accelerates normally. No more hesitation between 1800 - 3000rpm. I can't believe that just by changing the spark plugs, the problem is fixed. However, I also did a few more things, while looking for the solenoid, I checked the whole air intake for leaks and found none, just the crankase ventilation hose looks like it's gonna die soon, so I will have to replace it, and then I have re-tighten all the intake collars.

So, here's a picture with the old spark plugs per cylinder (as you look at the engin from the front of the car):

*they look like the engine runs very rich. right?

[flash22]

old plugs and rich (prob the o2 you replaced fixed it) they have a massive gap (standard is 0.8 - 1.1mm) they look like 2+ mm

Poor spark - bad combustion - sooted plugs = runs like a 3 legged donkey

[morpheusro]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

old plugs and rich (prob the o2 you replaced fixed it) they have a massive gap (standard is 0.8 - 1.1mm) they look like 2+ mm

Poor spark - bad combustion - sooted plugs = runs like a 3 legged donkey

Indeed, you're right!

Is running great now, really. No more hesitation, is picking up nicely on full gas, even in high gear and hard acceleration and low rpms and pulling strong.

If I may, I would like to ask something else: I want to replace the two crankcase breather hoses, but I don't seem to find them online.

Is this a Toyota only option? I have to go to the dealer? Not that I mind, just wanted to check.

 

Anyway, thanks so much for your help. I think we can consider the problem fixed!